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Fram oil canister sealing/gasket problem
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vwkever68
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 8:46 am    Post subject: Fram oil canister sealing/gasket problem Reply with quote

Hi!

I just finished installing a Fram oil canister last weekend on my Judson supercharged 1300cc engine.

The problem I have is that the oil canister is leaking a lot. It comes all around the cover. I bought the items as NOS, but the rubber sealing was dried out. So I thought it had something to do with that rubber sealing located at the cover. I used some sealing compound all around it (as you can see on the picture) but it is still leaking.

I have seen other members here who are using this kind of oil filter, how do they seal the top cover? Can I order somewhere a new gasket or is it another problem ?

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60ragtop
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

it has been my experience from many years past, you need to use a rubber gasket in the top. maybe your local auto parts store or tractor supply will have a rubber seal ?
Make sure there is no dried seal or sealer in the groove.
I remember fighting them back in the 70's and was glad for the spin on filters Wink
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Kjell Roar
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should use hoses with bigger ID on the return side than the pressure side.

Do you?
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Erik G
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

not sure it's the same size (it appears so) but my 912 has the same type canister. The oil change kits I got from SMC include a new washer for the bolt, and a gasket for the lid.

http://www.sierramadrecollection.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=4653
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vwkever68
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! I already went to the local part store, but they don't have a sealing for it. I can order online a O ring that will fit but I am not sure it will work since the origional one is flat and I only can order the regular O ring which is round.

I checked https://www.sierramadrecollection.com thanks! Do you maybe have a spare set so you can measure the inner size of the sealing for me? Wink I would be happy if it fits but I have to make sure since shipping to my country costs 22USD so I will order directly some spare sets. Very Happy
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vwkever68
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 2:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kjell Roar wrote:
You should use hoses with bigger ID on the return side than the pressure side.

Do you?


On both sides I use the same size, I will explain it below:

The oil canister does the following standard connectors: 2X 1/8' for the inlet and output line. I have discussed it with a hydraulic proffesional and he recommend me this:

Use an adapter to convert the 2 1/8' to 1/4' NPT, so there can be used a 3/8' PTFE hose with Stainless steel. At the other end of the hoses we used also a 1/4' NPT which goes directly to my oil pump.

The oil pump does have an output and a input 1/4'.

If it is not clear I can post some pictures. Smile

I understand your opinion but does that mean I have to change the origional thread in the oil canister?
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vwkever68
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It can be that the inlet's are to small for this setup, I thought about it before. I will do some calculations to check the pressure inside the oil canister, Maybe I have to place a pressure relief valve on the inlet line but then the idea of full flow filtering is gone Rolling Eyes

I will think about it and let you guys now.
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alanhall
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 20, 2014 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These are bypass filters and are intended to have a small orifice on the inlet side so as to not take too much oil away from the engine. I don't recall the orifice size to be used but it is small, maybe around 0.040 inches. I think this has been discussed at length on this forum, try searching for Fram filter. I like the rubber gaskets that come with the Fram c-3P filters, but there are fiber gaskets out there that can be used also. Try Stoddard for the fiber gaskets.

In re-reading your posts I am thinking maybe you are trying to use this as a full-flow filter. If this is so what model Fram filter are you using and is it intended to be used as a full flow installation? Also where are you returning the oil to after it leaves the filter?
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D-train
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 3:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i had the same probs, order a new one from Klasse 356, havnt had a prob since.
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vwkever68
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 3:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are right. The filter is installed as a full flow filter this can be the problem.

I think I have a fram CP4 filter installed right now (have to double check, but I think it is a bypass filter) the first step I will make is to get my hands on another filter and a good sealing at the top. Hope it will work Very Happy

I will let you all know! Any suggestions for the filter I should buy?
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vwkever68
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 3:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You mean ordering a new sealing? I can not find it on their website, should I sent them an Email ?

D-train wrote:
i had the same probs, order a new one from Klasse 356, havnt had a prob since.
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D-train
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 4:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://klasse356.cloudsites.gearhost.com/catalog/showItems.asp?Category=EOS

No13.

Also check u have the inlet to the canister as a smaller hole than the outlet otherwise the canister will pressurise and blow oil

I actually found a seal from a truck oil filter to be the same size as this seal needed, but taller. So when it tightened on the seal, the seal popped inside the unit causing it to do nothin but leak oil..
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alanhall
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 21, 2014 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a fram c3 or c4 filter those are both bypass units and I don't believe they can handle the pressure that you will see if you plumb them as a full flow filter. A full flow filter runs at the oil pressure output of the pump and all the engines oil goes through the filter. It is plumbed between the pump out and the case oil passages to the engine oiling system.

A bypass filter is plumbed with a small orifice to limit the amount of oil it robs from the engine oiling system, this bypass oil is then simply returned to the engine sump. If you plumb a bypass filter with large lines it will bypass way too much oil and starve the engine as well as pressurizing the filter to an excessive pressure.
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vwkever68
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Indeed, I think it is the problem that I am using the wrong filter.

The filters mentioned by D-train and Erik G both are full flow filters ? I want to make sure that they are, and will fit since I will order some more (5pcs or so) since the shipping is expensive to my country.
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Erik G
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwkever68 wrote:
Indeed, I think it is the problem that I am using the wrong filter.

The filters mentioned by D-train and Erik G both are full flow filters ? I want to make sure that they are, and will fit since I will order some more (5pcs or so) since the shipping is expensive to my country.


No, yours and mine are meant to be used as bypass filters. There is one thats meant to be full flow, it's got much larger fittings

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...p;start=20

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=526012&highlight=fram+full
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vwkever68
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see. I would like to start by trying to use it as a full flow filter just with installing a full flow filter without modifying the housing. If that does"t work (if the resistance of the filter is too high) I would like to try to make a sort of bypass inside the filter by drilling a hole through the filter.

Now is the question where can I get a full flow filter that would fit my housing. Question

I got standard 1\8" fittings, but as you can read above I use bigger lines not sure it would help a lot.
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Erik G
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 10:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I saw that you replied to the other post and recieved the filter number. I would just add, you run a very high risk of loosing oil pressure on your return, thus starving your bearings if you are not very careful. Notice how much work he put into bigger fittings, different center "pole", etc.
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vwkever68
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Erik G wrote:
I saw that you replied to the other post and recieved the filter number. I would just add, you run a very high risk of loosing oil pressure on your return, thus starving your bearings if you are not very careful. Notice how much work he put into bigger fittings, different center "pole", etc.


Yes I noticed. I would be very careful, but I do not have the same standard center pole. The one I have does have already some extra holes.

First I will try it without an filter, If that works I will place an full flow filter. When that fails, I think I will make the return port bigger and if that isn't working I will change the pole.....

Thank you all for your help. I will post the results here.
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baroach
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 11:06 am    Post subject: Same Setup Reply with quote

I have the same Fram bypass on my 36 with Judson SC and use the WIX equivalent filter (too hard to find the Fram ) the WIX # is a 51010 and comes with a gasket that seals my fram can perfectly as long as you get it good and tight
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Brian Anthony
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a problem with a rebuilt filter assembly that I bought. Someone had powder coated the canister and cap. I tried several gaskets, rubber and paper, without success. I finally decided to use valve lapping compound to lap the cap to the canister. It didn't take long to realize they had powder coated over a paper gasket. Once I got the old gasket removed, and lapped in the mating surface's, it has sealed without issues.

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