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DubStyle SBS Hit Squad
Joined: July 26, 2003 Posts: 6250 Location: SBS headquarters: Missery
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Posted: Wed Jun 25, 2014 8:06 am Post subject: |
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joe56vw wrote: |
kingodirtp3 wrote: |
thanks, I went through that one, lot of it is old though, I was hoping someone had a parts list and a few pics of how they did it, getting tired of hitting my steering box when someone else gets in the car, thinking of a 1.25 in raise from wagenswest since I have a friend that is a certified welder. just not sure about cutting into the body like that. |
you don't cut the body you cut a support rail that comes off the frame
I did a 1.5" raise on my last bus (without any "kit") it was easy and completely reversible |
I just did mine 3 weeks ago, you don't need a kit and is't pretty easy other than pulling all the stuff out of the way. Still a simple task. _________________ Anthony
SBS #1
SBS #1 on FB
"The original & best lowered Split Bus website/club" |
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oodeftone Samba Member
Joined: November 08, 2004 Posts: 65 Location: Carlsbad, CA
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Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 9:22 pm Post subject: |
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I have a 59 bus with a Wolfgang IRS kit installed with Thing rear end parts. It is lowered 1" in the rear. I need to lower it one more inch. Do I need to reindex the spring plates or what? Can anyone provide step by step instructions of how to do it or post a link to said instructions. I'm sure it's here somewhere but I can't find it. Thanks. |
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Split 66' Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2010 Posts: 1257 Location: Bay Area, California
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 1:32 am Post subject: |
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oodeftone wrote: |
I have a 59 bus with a Wolfgang IRS kit installed with Thing rear end parts. It is lowered 1" in the rear. I need to lower it one more inch. Do I need to reindex the spring plates or what? Can anyone provide step by step instructions of how to do it or post a link to said instructions. I'm sure it's here somewhere but I can't find it. Thanks. |
Wolfgang doesn't provide detailed instructions?
Bus Boy's has some instructions for their kits, which should be similar:
http://www.bus-boys.com/instructions-home.htm
I use an SA kit and all I did was re index the plates to get the ride height I wanted.
Never did an IRS kit, so I don't know if you need to weld your collars in a certain position.
Let us know how it turns out. _________________ "OG = Original German" -- TheSamba.com dictionary |
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cru62 Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2002 Posts: 4117 Location: Margaritaville.....24/7
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 7:39 am Post subject: |
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oodeftone wrote: |
I have a 59 bus with a Wolfgang IRS kit installed with Thing rear end parts. It is lowered 1" in the rear. I need to lower it one more inch. Do I need to reindex the spring plates or what? Can anyone provide step by step instructions of how to do it or post a link to said instructions. I'm sure it's here somewhere but I can't find it. Thanks. |
Unless you have adjustable springplates, there is no other way to lower the rear without reindexing the springplates. _________________ "My biggest worry is that when I die, my wife will sell all my parts for what I told her I paid for them"-Jon
Jokes about German sausage are the wurst.
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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DerrickfromNC1 Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2008 Posts: 1302 Location: North Carolina
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 10:11 am Post subject: |
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cru62 wrote: |
oodeftone wrote: |
I have a 59 bus with a Wolfgang IRS kit installed with Thing rear end parts. It is lowered 1" in the rear. I need to lower it one more inch. Do I need to reindex the spring plates or what? Can anyone provide step by step instructions of how to do it or post a link to said instructions. I'm sure it's here somewhere but I can't find it. Thanks. |
Unless you have adjustable springplates, there is no other way to lower the rear without reindexing the springplates. |
When I did the IRS conversion on my wife's 67 I went with the WagonsWest kit because of the adjustable springplates to make quick ride height adjustments rather than reindexing. I purchased the HD 1" longer axles from Wolfgang. |
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oodeftone Samba Member
Joined: November 08, 2004 Posts: 65 Location: Carlsbad, CA
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 11:07 am Post subject: |
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Wolfgang has instructions. I have them. I like the Bus Boys instructions better though, thanks for those. My question is more specific though. How exactly do you go about reindexing the spring plates? Do you jack up the car, take the tire off, unbolt the axle, unbolt the spring plate cover, mark the plate/torsion so you don't lose your place, pull out the spring plate, index it up into the wheel well a notch or two (to lower ride height), and bolt everything back together... Rookie question, I know. |
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joe56vw Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2004 Posts: 3202 Location: Olympia wa
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 11:16 am Post subject: |
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oodeftone wrote: |
Wolfgang has instructions. I have them. I like the Bus Boys instructions better though, thanks for those. My question is more specific though. How exactly do you go about reindexing the spring plates? Do you jack up the car, take the tire off, unbolt the axle, unbolt the spring plate cover, mark the plate/torsion so you don't lose your place, pull out the spring plate, index it up into the wheel well a notch or two (to lower ride height), and bolt everything back together... Rookie question, I know. |
this is for a bug but it is pretty much the same you might have to weed thru some bs to get to the info you want
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=212669 _________________ '60 15 window walkthrough
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559931&highlight=
why is there no sarcasism button on here? |
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electronictofu Samba Member
Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 936 Location: Sacramento
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joe56vw Samba Member
Joined: June 24, 2004 Posts: 3202 Location: Olympia wa
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electronictofu Samba Member
Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 936 Location: Sacramento
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Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 10:16 pm Post subject: |
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joe56vw wrote: |
there are lots of posts about the second one leaking and not fitting very well |
I was hesitant because it takes 3 weeks to arrive shipped from Taiwan. Well thats good to know, this one was a little more expensive anyways. The Sidewinder I saw someone on this thread with photos, it looked good. |
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cdennisg Samba Member
Joined: November 02, 2004 Posts: 20278 Location: Sandpoint, ID
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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 9:50 am Post subject: |
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electronictofu wrote: |
joe56vw wrote: |
there are lots of posts about the second one leaking and not fitting very well |
I was hesitant because it takes 3 weeks to arrive shipped from Taiwan. Well thats good to know, this one was a little more expensive anyways. The Sidewinder I saw someone on this thread with photos, it looked good. |
If you still have a stock size engine, go with the stock muffler. No better clearance anywhere. If you havea larger engine, then an aftermarket exhaust is your only choice. _________________ nothing |
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electronictofu Samba Member
Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 936 Location: Sacramento
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Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 1:56 pm Post subject: |
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cdennisg wrote: |
electronictofu wrote: |
joe56vw wrote: |
there are lots of posts about the second one leaking and not fitting very well |
I was hesitant because it takes 3 weeks to arrive shipped from Taiwan. Well thats good to know, this one was a little more expensive anyways. The Sidewinder I saw someone on this thread with photos, it looked good. |
If you still have a stock size engine, go with the stock muffler. No better clearance anywhere. If you havea larger engine, then an aftermarket exhaust is your only choice. |
Yeah it's a 1776 with larger heads , new case around 100hp.
My long block builder suggested 1.5".
Aiming towards sidewinder .
Does anyone scrape with it?
Also they don't offer it in ceramic.
Raw and stainless. Does stainless still need to be
Wrapped or is it good to go?
I prefer ceramic personally . |
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Zebilmnc Samba Member
Joined: May 23, 2014 Posts: 70 Location: Advance, NC
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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I'm planning on lowering my bus soon. I am going to do dropped spindles in the front. The rear is where I need some help. I have the original transaxle and would like to keep it for now. Is reindexing the spring plates the only way to drop the rear with rgbs? If I drop it about 4 inches with that method how much will it camber out? Does anyone have pictures of a bus done this way? Any help is appreciate. |
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cru62 Samba Member
Joined: December 31, 2002 Posts: 4117 Location: Margaritaville.....24/7
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 4:17 pm Post subject: |
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Don't cheap out and do it this way. You will hate the ride, the handling and the looks. Go with a SAK and be done wid it. _________________ "My biggest worry is that when I die, my wife will sell all my parts for what I told her I paid for them"-Jon
Jokes about German sausage are the wurst.
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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electronictofu Samba Member
Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 936 Location: Sacramento
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 11:59 pm Post subject: |
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Alright, I need some assistance...
Im getting close to bleeding the brakes on my all new system. New lines and MC, front is stock drums on lowered spindles and adjustable beam. Rear is a type 1 swing, with type 3 drums and lowered spring plates in the rear.
I've heard alot about people having to remove the axle housing bolts from the spring plates to get the wheel on and off. A PIA yes, but the one thing that's presenting an actual issue is the hard brake line needs to come off. When the axle swings down to get the tire off it won't lower unless the brake line is removed (luckily I haven't bled the brakes yet), Either the hard line or the rubber line removed, to give it some play. How to solve this? Longer hose or lines? If so what kind are you pros using?
Also, the center hub/bearing needs to be seating back a little bit more. I think this is a cause of the drum not fully getting seated back. Any tips on this? The threads on my axle took some accidental mild abuse trying to force it closer to being seated. Removing the hub/ axle center nut was a little sketchy, luckily it did not damage any threads.
Another issue. When I was trying to get my E-brake setup, and putting the axle on last month I heard a snap. I assumed it was the E-brake cable coming off inside the drum. I had the wheel on and said, hell... I'll fix it when I bleed the brakes. Tonight I removed the tire and the drum getting things prepped. Oddly, the E-brake cable looks fine (I cut some spring splines so it would fit properly, it was too long). So Im curious what the snap sound was. The axle and tire still spins fine within the transmission. Im hoping it was some fluke thing and I am not screwed here.
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Split 66' Samba Member
Joined: October 07, 2010 Posts: 1257 Location: Bay Area, California
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 3:08 am Post subject: |
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electronictofu wrote: |
Also, the center hub/bearing needs to be seating back a little bit more. I think this is a cause of the drum not fully getting seated back. Any tips on this? The threads on my axle took some accidental mild abuse trying to force it closer to being seated. Removing the hub/ axle center nut was a little sketchy, luckily it did not damage any threads.
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Something looks wrong with your axle cap seal. It looks like the spacer is poking past the outside of the seal, from here. There should be a flat washer in front of the spacer too.
This is 'a 68 Type 3 backing plate:
Page 3 of this link has the order of the seals, spacers and washer, might want to go over it and make sure everything is right.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/type3_...ential.pdf
Are those aftermarket axle bearing-caps you are using? These are what I am used to seeing:
_________________ "OG = Original German" -- TheSamba.com dictionary |
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electronictofu Samba Member
Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 936 Location: Sacramento
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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I think there are 2 main type of axle caps, atleast in this discussion. Do yours have a beveled lip on them to hold that outter washer on? Mine are open all the way through. I think the drum is what actually holds it all on, instead of the axle cover lip. Im not sure if it's correct though. I remember in a previous discussion a while back this way was ok, but who knows. The axle cover I am holding was a 3rd extra, but almost identical to the ones installed.
Here are photos of the side giving issues. Also a couple photos of the driver side, which the axle nut seated perfectly and the wheel install seemed to go great, was it correct, Im not sure...? I thought so, but it fit and both sides are the same parts. So, maybe smack the driver side in so it fully seats? Im just nervous to slam on it.
Driver Side:
Passenger side nut fully seated:
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electronictofu Samba Member
Joined: May 13, 2009 Posts: 936 Location: Sacramento
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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I know some pro is dying to chime in about these axle covers... above.
Type 1 rear, type 1 68 long axles, type 3 drums and pads. I think the axle covers I have without the lip are type 1 matching the axle, not matching to the drum. Not sure if I should slam on the driver side or not. Because the passenger side fits, and it's the same setup. Not seated enough...?
But I also don't want to move forward if they are incorrect and not safe?
Any experience with this?
Sorry to blow up questions but I have one other Im still hoping someone can chime in. In order to change my tires, or bleed brakes like most here, I think you need to drop the axle off the spring plate to get the tire off. Are you guys running a longer rubber brake line, or longer steel brake line back there? I can't imagine having to re-bleed brakes every time I take a tire off.
I've got a small deadline to get things running so Im stressin' a bit. |
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wrenchnride247 Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2010 Posts: 251 Location: Cleveland, TN
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Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 7:29 pm Post subject: |
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electronictofu wrote: |
Sorry to blow up questions but I have one other Im still hoping someone can chime in. In order to change my tires, or bleed brakes like most here, I think you need to drop the axle off the spring plate to get the tire off. Are you guys running a longer rubber brake line, or longer steel brake line back there? I can't imagine having to re-bleed brakes every time I take a tire off.
I've got a small deadline to get things running so Im stressin' a bit. |
I tried the "unbolting the axle" deal with mine, and still couldn't get the wheel on. It made it harder to do. The only way I've had success is "the scissor jack method" I do have to take the shock off, but no lines have to come apart. But, I'm running a 205-50-16 with 55 offset wheel with 944 disc brakes. Did you try the jack method? _________________ SPL
'62 SC 69x90.5 SP TI
'70 T1 84x105 DP T4 |
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kingodirtp3 Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2007 Posts: 1062 Location: Monterey CA
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Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 10:52 am Post subject: |
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im running 215/65/14 tires on 14x6 rims with 4 inches backspacing. the scissor jack method works great for me, rolled my rear fenders some too.
for bleeding the brakes I can get a wrench on the bleeder without jacking the car up or removing anything. |
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