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Sanding block for curved surfaces?
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tizzfishin
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 7:26 pm    Post subject: Sanding block for curved surfaces? Reply with quote

I'm blocking my bus to get it ready for paint. What is a good block that is soft enough to conform to the curves of a bus. The main sections are above the rear wheel wells and the curved section that raps around the bus halfway up. Thanks
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eshan2
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AFS makes some really good blocks pricey but I love mine.
http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/afssanders.aspx
I use Klingspor sand paper and not 3M.
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Saint
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good lord man...look at those prices Shocked Shocked Shocked

how about this
http://www.harborfreight.com/sanding-block-98167.html

I've seen some foam sanding blocks (do almost same) and should be a lot cheaper from a local auto paint shop.
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crowe66
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 6:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have a 7 piece Dura-Block set from Eastwood. I like it.

http://www.eastwood.com/7-piece-sanding-block-kit.html
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

we use that set as well
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PressureProjex
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where do you guys buy sandpaper for the longer blocks?
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spook
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

my paint suppler,
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TCP Global.com
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flyboat
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="Saint"]good lord man...look at those prices Shocked Shocked Shocked




Call AFS and tell them the prices are too high from the suppliers (Eastwood etc.). I did and got my blocks for about 1/3 the price I bought them straight from AFS. If you need a number straight to the mnau.

http://www.adjustflexsand.com/products.html This is by far the best block I have ever used. I do this for a living. What I sand is 30-40 feet long with many compound curves.

Also, if the area is not too large, a paint paddle wrapped in sand paper works great

Here is my latest paint project
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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mikevt
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 08, 2011 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It may sound funny, but made just like others, I found pool noodles
work great
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eshan2
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2011 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I bought mine direct also.I went to an HOK seminar a few years back that Jon Kosmoski did and he had a set with him on display.After the demonstrations were over I got a closer look at the sanders and held them.Jon gave me the contact info and the next day they were on their way to me.Don't recall what I paid for them but they were high but they make life so much easier.I have looked at the Durablock set as well but to me they are more suited to cut and buff work 1500 or higher grit.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="flyboat"]
Saint wrote:
good lord man...look at those prices Shocked Shocked Shocked




Call AFS and tell them the prices are too high from the suppliers (Eastwood etc.). I did and got my blocks for about 1/3 the price I bought them straight from AFS. If you need a number straight to the mnau.

http://www.adjustflexsand.com/products.html This is by far the best block I have ever used. I do this for a living. What I sand is 30-40 feet long with many compound curves.

Also, if the area is not too large, a paint paddle wrapped in sand paper works
great

What are the sizes needed for beetle?

Here is my latest paint project
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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flyboat
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I sanded all my fenders with a paint paddle but the sides of the car and doors can be sanded with a 16" flxible block with good results. A small block that is just foam with no supports becomes handy as well
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airedout
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The absolute best sanding block for roun surfaces such as a bug fender is a piece of 1/4 rubber pad (you can buy sheets of the stuff at home depot and cut to length). Its the only thing i use for bug roofs and fenders.

Dwight
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flyboat
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

airedout wrote:
The absolute best sanding block for roun surfaces such as a bug fender is a piece of 1/4 rubber pad (you can buy sheets of the stuff at home depot and cut to length). Its the only thing i use for bug roofs and fenders.

Dwight
Acrophobia GA

Problem is, if you have a low spot that is only slightly low you may not know it until the paint shines. Even the primer overlaps show up when you sand with something that has a bit of stiffness but is still flexible. It will always show you the high spots first.
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schell '59
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2011 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

this is why you use a stiffer rubber or poly block and not a soft pad/block like you would you for wet sadning clears and such...

...paint paddle and wooden stirs wrapped are suicide...though they can and have been used for years,not only are you taking the chance of drag marks but they are not straight (looking at the stick onward..all are nearly in a "U" shape) and do not have beveled edges for a straight to sloped radius like on beetle and old 20-30's americans. (so you run the risk on finger f--k marks in the primer)

dura blocks are very good (I cut the hard edges off to allow for better panel transision with out drags) as well as 3m's rubber squeegy block...then you can go even farther and get the 2 toned blue/black or black/grey/black semi-soft sand blocks for curves and straight transisions..
http://www.autotoolworld.com/Motor-Guard-HT-2-Holy-Terror-Sanding-Block-2-Pk_p_94340.html

http://www.autotoolworld.com/Motor-Guard-BG12-1-12-Big-Block-Maximum-Sanding-Block_p_94338.html


with the wooden paint stick method..the wood will absorb the water and move all over the place but where it's need and you will have low spots..as your hand is not uniform,the difference is it's not as visable on turned and curved surfaces...sure they work and have proven usuable...but then again I don't feel the price of a product will hinder the way I want a paint job to come out...if the fender on a customers '34 Ford has to be 100% flawless,ain't no way i'm gonna go to my wrapped mixing stick or hardware store's stirrer to block the 40hr body labor and $500 material priced fender...

just saying,but again to each his own i guess.
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Dauz
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used Kustom Shops K-Blocks. The are just firm enough while being able to flex for curved surfaces. Selling a kit in the classifieds matter of fact.
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jpjohns
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

crowe66 wrote:
i have a 7 piece Dura-Block set from Eastwood. I like it.

http://www.eastwood.com/7-piece-sanding-block-kit.html


+1 on the Durablock set, they are great.
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jason
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I worked at a bodyshop in high school and everyone used a flat block. I myself use a flat one, it's easier for me. I actually make it worse with curved ones.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Along the lines of a paint stick, but a little more precise, would be a thin steel ruler. Sometimes you can find an 18-24 inch ones for the long panels.
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