karu's buggy build

[joescoolcustoms]

Great looking tank! Will it fit under the hood? It looks tall, but I can't see how much will be under the body lip.

You get that plasma cutter and I will help you use it. That has always been on my "wish" list of tools to get, but I cannot justify the price tag with it.
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Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

[karu]

[joescoolcustoms]

Either way of mounting is up to your personal liking. But, here are a couple of things to take into consideration no mater which way you mount:

The front of the buggy, forward of the fuel tank, needs support to keep from flexing/squeaking/cracking.

The fuel tank hole needs sealed around the perimeter to keep air and rain/mist from coming up and into the passenger compartment while driving the buggy. The rain mist generated from the front tires can shorten your electrical system's life, even from just a damp road.

The fire wall will act like a support for the rear of the fuel tank and a front support can attach to the front beam.
_________________
Bad News Racing 2018 NORRA 1000 3rd in Class
Best Day Ever Racing 2022 NORRA 1000 2nd in Class and first All Female team to complete the race

Everyone is gifted. Some just do not open the package.

Looks like it was painted with a live chicken,polished with a brick and buffed with a pine cone

[karu]

[karu]

It's been a while since I updated my build thread. Haven't done anything significant but I did a number of small things.

I am somewhat obsessed with rust removal and prevention. I have been experimenting with all sorts of things. Here is a list of what I tried.

1. Sandblasting by far the best as long as someone else does it for you. I did it myself with a small compressor. It was painfully slow. However, end product is far superior to any of the other methods. Only negative is, it is pretty hard to get in to nooks and corners.

2. Chemicals. Only one I tried specifically for rust removal is muriatic acid. Works really well but you need to immediately do something to stop the rust from forming again.

3. Electrolysis. I got a 12V power supply from amazon. Very happy with the result. First, I used a paint stripper to remove paint and then used electrolysis to remove rust. Works really well.

Here are some pics.

My set up.

End results.

The black powdery stuff is some of the rust converted back to iron. What I learned online is only Fe2O3 converts to iron but Fe3O4 does not.

I know I should have put a 'before' picture for comparison. It was quite rusty before the treatment, specially the diagonal arms which are not in this picture.

This is what I used for the power supply.

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulated-Switchin...wer+supply

If you plan on doing this, make sure that your sacrificial electrodes are evenly distributed all around your piece. Other important factor is the surface area of the electrodes. It has to be at least as large as the piece you are working on.

[herbsflat4]

The electrolysis is really cool. I think I will try this for my pedal assembly like you.

So any pictures to update on odds and ends?

[karu]

[karu]

I have one quick question. Do I need backing plates for disk brakes? I am going to use them for front disk brakes since I have a set. Are they needed for rear disk brakes?

Can anyone tell me what purpose they serve in disk brake systems? Are they there only as a physical barrier to debris?

[joescoolcustoms]

[karu]

[karu]

Painted chassis and other parts. Here are some pics of the chassis. I used kbs rust seal together with their cleaner and metal prep products.

Also worked on the wheels.

Before

After

I kept the masking tape for a while and it left some residues on the tire. Lot of elbow grease is used on the wheels and I am happy with the result. Used duplicolor silver wheel paint.

[karu]

The front beam I have is in very good shape. However, there is some corrosion inside the shock towers.
I bought Klean Strip phosphoric prep and etch from home depot which has identical MSDS as ospho. Turned the beam upside down and filled shock towers with slightly diluted liquid (my guess is about 25% acid - originally it says 35%-45% in MSDS) and kept it for few days. I just had to fix some leaks on one shock tower but the other was nicely sealed by rust seal.
After I poured the solution out, I mixed a concoction of wax from toilet bowl sealer - New of course!!!!!, engine oil and paint thinner, poured it in and drained it. It should seal the inside from elements.

Here is the front beam assembled and ready to go.

[dcat917]

Love your chassis build, wish I had that skill set.
_________________
1981 Puma GTB http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7794566#7794566
1971 Karmann Ghia http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=591290&highlight=
Past Projects:
1951 Studebaker Business Coupe https://goo.gl/photos/eHPuNo89m9PXZwBM8
1953 Studebaker 2-Door Sedan https://goo.gl/photos/pe38HEShzUrVSwcV8

[karu]

[karu]

Got a quick question. Did I put the oil seal right? Flat side of the oil seal is inside and the grove is facing out.
Just want to make sure before I try the second one. Bentley Manual is not quite clear.

[Tom_Kathleen]

Oil seal is backwards. Tom
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Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA

[karu]

[Tom_Kathleen]

If you are carefull, you should just be able to knock it out and put it in the right way. Tom
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Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA

[karu]

OK. I carefully pulled it out.

This time I am going to check this first before pushing the seal in

Please tell me if this is still not right.

[wvbowtieman]

No.... that is not right.
Just flip the seal over and install like you did the first time.