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sb001 Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011 Posts: 10399 Location: NW Arkansas
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Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 12:29 pm Post subject: What is a good size for an engine overhaul workbench? |
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My neighbor up the street is a woodworker and has offered to build me a workbench for when I get around to trying to overhaul my engine. (I still plan on buying a stand for the engine disassembly/ reassembly) What would be a good suggested size to give him for the bench, where all engine parts, tools, rags, chemical supplies etc can rest? (I have a normal sizer 2 car garage and there would probably be enough space in front of the bug to put the bench so i can still fit both cars in, but don't mind leaving the other car (98 Honda Accord) outside if need be.)
Thanks _________________ I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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my59 Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2003 Posts: 3780 Location: connecting the dots
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Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 5:57 pm Post subject: |
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I have a maple dining room table a roommate abandoned that is 30" by 8' with a 1.5" thick top as one end of an L with an old steel desk that is 36 by 5' as the other end. The table height works ok for big things, and for little bitty things I can pull up a chair and sit while I fiddle.
I use maple surface as the workbench (vice mounted on the free corner) and the desk as the heavy item storage area. There are scrounged overhead cabinets above each- one for measuring tools, and the other for manuals. bits of 2x4 in between the post and beam barn frame hold chemicals, oil and spray cans. Nails sunk into shelf edges hang tools and odds and ends. Its not pretty but it what I have and it was all free.
Best thing I ever did was get some cold weather fixtures mounted for lights, and a a student lamp on a stand I can move around for concentrated task lighting. Working in your own shadow blows big time.
In a two car garage I'd think about one 'bay' with the bench at the end, minimum 30" deep (36 if you can fit the bug in the remaining space, door closed when all is said and done) and 8-10 feet long, wall to center of garage- this will fit a longer car on one side in the other bay. I'd park the bug outside while the engine is in the garage so you have plenty of room to work, unless you fling tools when pissed. If so park both outside and keep the doors closed _________________ my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget. |
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Danwvw Samba Member
Joined: July 31, 2012 Posts: 8892 Location: Oregon Coast
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Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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I tell you what bench space is where it's at the more the better. Perhaps 2 small benches that fit nicely in your garage. Put the engine stand in between. Why not 3 work benches one on each side of the car and one at the end! _________________ 1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths! |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 6:17 pm Post subject: |
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I prefer a smaller bench because it prevents extra "jobs" from piling up or getting in the way, a small space forces you to keep things tidy and focused and parts don't get lost. My favorite build bench is a former hospital food cart that's about 40"X24", it's got a laminate top and 4 stainless shelves below with big lockable casters, it holds a whole engine in pieces and the extra stuff except for the case on the engine stand (case can sit on top when the other stuff is put away). You'll need something else for chemicals and tools but you really shouldn't be mixing things in with a dismantled engine anyways.
I find too much bench space leads to 1/2 finished jobs accumulating around the edges and pretty soon there's no room to work, less is more as it forces quick turnover and keeps things moving along. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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nsracing Samba Member
Joined: November 16, 2003 Posts: 9437 Location: NOVA
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Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 6:28 am Post subject: |
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The bigger the better is the going wisdom. Preferably in stainless steel.
But a thicker wood top and lay an aluminum sheet on top as thick as you can afford. This will make cleaning easy.
Big CLEAN, tables come in handy when time to assemble the parts. you can lay your parts there and appreciate the parts coming together.
A nice work-table is a must in any garage. |
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drscope Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 15273 Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:05 am Post subject: |
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Murphy’s Law of the workshop: Any horizontal surface is soon piled up.
Work benches are never big enough. _________________ Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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pb_foots Samba Member
Joined: April 15, 2010 Posts: 1089 Location: Ben Lomond, CA
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Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:26 am Post subject: |
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Mine is 20" deep and about 8 feet long. Thick wood top. I prefer wood, but it does require sanding every year or so to get the scuzz off it from greasy parts. I just don't like the feel of aluminum and stainless is expensive. When this wears out I'll probably be too damn old to care. |
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Max Welton Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2003 Posts: 10697 Location: Black Forest, CO
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Glenn Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001 Posts: 76761 Location: Sneaking up behind you
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Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 4:00 pm Post subject: |
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Mine is 6'x3' 40" tall with 4x4 legs and a shelf under. It gives plenty of room to work. I have a second and smaller on in the garage that's 40"x30" and folds down when not needed.
_________________ Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
#BlueSquare |
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drscope Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 15273 Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 6:00 pm Post subject: |
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pb_foots wrote: |
Thick wood top. I prefer wood, but it does require sanding every year or so to get the scuzz off it from greasy parts. I just don't like the feel of aluminum and stainless is expensive. |
In the early days of my instrument repair business we covered the wood tops with a sheet of Masonite. The kind that had a white baked on finish on one side.
It had the feel of wood, but was easy to clean up and lasted a really long time.
We tried the standard brown Masonite as well, but the shiny side of that would start to get fuzzy after a couple years. Still easy and pretty cheap to change out and replace when it started getting nasty. _________________ Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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Glenn Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001 Posts: 76761 Location: Sneaking up behind you
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Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 6:05 pm Post subject: |
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I have vulcanized Masonite on mine and it's lasted a number of years. When it gets too beat up I just replace it with a fresh sheet. _________________ Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
#BlueSquare |
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sb001 Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011 Posts: 10399 Location: NW Arkansas
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Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 4:54 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks all-
My friend offering to build it suggested 24" deep x 8 ft long because that's the size sheets of plywood come in. But I told him I don't think plywood is going to cut it. I REALLY like the pics of the benches with the 4x4s joined together, and the Masonite idea. Thank you _________________ I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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my59 Samba Member
Joined: August 13, 2003 Posts: 3780 Location: connecting the dots
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Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 7:49 pm Post subject: |
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3/4" plywood will do fine if there is a frame under it with ribs for support. 2x4 legs will do ok as long as there is X bracing. Make sure the vice has some solid anchorage.
24" deep is like a kitchen counter- if a full sheet is going toward the bench, I'd go 30" bench and an 18" deep under shelf for storage- that way you can pull up a stool to sit _________________ my59: Well son, my grandfather died before I got to drive it, so does that answer your question?
our79: sunroof bus w/camper interior and 2.0 FI
Other:'12 Jetta, '77 Benz 300D, and a 74 MG Midget. |
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Max Welton Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2003 Posts: 10697 Location: Black Forest, CO
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Mr.Duncan Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2012 Posts: 3542 Location: Houston, TX
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Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 8:47 am Post subject: |
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I like a heavy thick wood table about 3 ftx 5 ft _________________ (Owner) www.vintagecarleds.com
Red 1971 Squareback Thread
Red 1966 Beetle Thread
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Glenn Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001 Posts: 76761 Location: Sneaking up behind you
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Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 8:53 am Post subject: |
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I used 3/4" press board. Really dense and strong... it's mostly glue. _________________ Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
#BlueSquare |
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Chad M Samba Member
Joined: July 14, 2003 Posts: 723 Location: Alberta
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Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 11:25 am Post subject: |
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The bench I built is 24" X 36" X 12' with 4x4 and 2x4 framing. I'm 6'2" and find the higher than normal bench top to be just right. I topped it with 3/4 plywood and then covered that with 3/16" steel sheet. There is a 3" apron and a 4" back splash. Super nice for clean up and very sturdy.
To do it over again, I'd probably go 30" deep. |
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