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What is a good size for an engine overhaul workbench?
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sb001
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 12:29 pm    Post subject: What is a good size for an engine overhaul workbench? Reply with quote

My neighbor up the street is a woodworker and has offered to build me a workbench for when I get around to trying to overhaul my engine. (I still plan on buying a stand for the engine disassembly/ reassembly) What would be a good suggested size to give him for the bench, where all engine parts, tools, rags, chemical supplies etc can rest? (I have a normal sizer 2 car garage and there would probably be enough space in front of the bug to put the bench so i can still fit both cars in, but don't mind leaving the other car (98 Honda Accord) outside if need be.)
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my59
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a maple dining room table a roommate abandoned that is 30" by 8' with a 1.5" thick top as one end of an L with an old steel desk that is 36 by 5' as the other end. The table height works ok for big things, and for little bitty things I can pull up a chair and sit while I fiddle.
I use maple surface as the workbench (vice mounted on the free corner) and the desk as the heavy item storage area. There are scrounged overhead cabinets above each- one for measuring tools, and the other for manuals. bits of 2x4 in between the post and beam barn frame hold chemicals, oil and spray cans. Nails sunk into shelf edges hang tools and odds and ends. Its not pretty but it what I have and it was all free.
Best thing I ever did was get some cold weather fixtures mounted for lights, and a a student lamp on a stand I can move around for concentrated task lighting. Working in your own shadow blows big time.

In a two car garage I'd think about one 'bay' with the bench at the end, minimum 30" deep (36 if you can fit the bug in the remaining space, door closed when all is said and done) and 8-10 feet long, wall to center of garage- this will fit a longer car on one side in the other bay. I'd park the bug outside while the engine is in the garage so you have plenty of room to work, unless you fling tools when pissed. If so park both outside and keep the doors closed
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tell you what bench space is where it's at the more the better. Perhaps 2 small benches that fit nicely in your garage. Put the engine stand in between. Why not 3 work benches one on each side of the car and one at the end!
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I prefer a smaller bench because it prevents extra "jobs" from piling up or getting in the way, a small space forces you to keep things tidy and focused and parts don't get lost. My favorite build bench is a former hospital food cart that's about 40"X24", it's got a laminate top and 4 stainless shelves below with big lockable casters, it holds a whole engine in pieces and the extra stuff except for the case on the engine stand (case can sit on top when the other stuff is put away). You'll need something else for chemicals and tools but you really shouldn't be mixing things in with a dismantled engine anyways.
I find too much bench space leads to 1/2 finished jobs accumulating around the edges and pretty soon there's no room to work, less is more as it forces quick turnover and keeps things moving along.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bigger the better is the going wisdom. Preferably in stainless steel. Laughing

But a thicker wood top and lay an aluminum sheet on top as thick as you can afford. This will make cleaning easy.

Big CLEAN, tables come in handy when time to assemble the parts. you can lay your parts there and appreciate the parts coming together.

A nice work-table is a must in any garage.
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drscope
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Murphy’s Law of the workshop: Any horizontal surface is soon piled up.

Work benches are never big enough.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine is 20" deep and about 8 feet long. Thick wood top. I prefer wood, but it does require sanding every year or so to get the scuzz off it from greasy parts. I just don't like the feel of aluminum and stainless is expensive. When this wears out I'll probably be too damn old to care.
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine is 6'x3' 40" tall with 4x4 legs and a shelf under. It gives plenty of room to work. I have a second and smaller on in the garage that's 40"x30" and folds down when not needed.

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drscope
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pb_foots wrote:
Thick wood top. I prefer wood, but it does require sanding every year or so to get the scuzz off it from greasy parts. I just don't like the feel of aluminum and stainless is expensive.


In the early days of my instrument repair business we covered the wood tops with a sheet of Masonite. The kind that had a white baked on finish on one side.
It had the feel of wood, but was easy to clean up and lasted a really long time.

We tried the standard brown Masonite as well, but the shiny side of that would start to get fuzzy after a couple years. Still easy and pretty cheap to change out and replace when it started getting nasty.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have vulcanized Masonite on mine and it's lasted a number of years. When it gets too beat up I just replace it with a fresh sheet.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks all-
My friend offering to build it suggested 24" deep x 8 ft long because that's the size sheets of plywood come in. But I told him I don't think plywood is going to cut it. I REALLY like the pics of the benches with the 4x4s joined together, and the Masonite idea. Thank you
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my59
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

3/4" plywood will do fine if there is a frame under it with ribs for support. 2x4 legs will do ok as long as there is X bracing. Make sure the vice has some solid anchorage.
24" deep is like a kitchen counter- if a full sheet is going toward the bench, I'd go 30" bench and an 18" deep under shelf for storage- that way you can pull up a stool to sit
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Max Welton
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I knew I would be pushing and pulling on an engine hanging off the end of my bench so I went heavy. Very glad I did.

The construction: http://www.maxwelton2k.net/misc/bench/

I do wish I had gotten a more substantial engine mount. They do turn up once in a while.

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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like a heavy thick wood table about 3 ftx 5 ft
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used 3/4" press board. Really dense and strong... it's mostly glue.
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bench I built is 24" X 36" X 12' with 4x4 and 2x4 framing. I'm 6'2" and find the higher than normal bench top to be just right. I topped it with 3/4 plywood and then covered that with 3/16" steel sheet. There is a 3" apron and a 4" back splash. Super nice for clean up and very sturdy.

To do it over again, I'd probably go 30" deep.
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