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dc
Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2004
Posts: 1426
Location: Kitsap Peninsula
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 Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 8:56 am Post subject: |
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Mike provides a great service for the restoration of rusty type 3's- a lot of the metal on the type 3 truck came from Mike---  Nothing fits like OG metal!!
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1963 Karmann Ghia |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 9:47 am Post subject: |
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| Mike Fisher wrote: |
Unfortunately it doesn't look as good on the other side, but could be sandblasted and used.
I also offered David this drivers side in a little better shape, but I already started cutting it out. It would have to come as 2 separate pieces to weld back together?
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Mike I sent you a PM regarding these pieces. They look ok.
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Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 10:13 am Post subject: |
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Okay David, PM received so we'll "Get er Done" 
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https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Sun Jun 08, 2014 10:19 am Post subject: |
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I am smiling BIG time!! Thx Mike!!!!!
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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Otto1969
Samba Member
Joined: January 17, 2014
Posts: 31
Location: New Zealand
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| Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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| PM sent thanks. |
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 17970
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2014 8:38 am Post subject: |
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I thought I would show you & your welder what you are getting. My lower edges don't look that good either, but you have plenty of good metal above them to use for your patches. Some of the rustiest metal I have ever sold, but still useful?
_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2014 8:47 am Post subject: |
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Mike thanks! Definitely much better than what I have now and certainly looks like enough metal to work with so go ahead and ship it!
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 1:15 am Post subject: |
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Hi all, I was checking out the wiring under the dash today since its all open and noticed this very small spring sticking out from my headlight switch. I assume this is a dimmer spring or something since my dimmer control does not function properly. Am I correct? If so do I need to replace the switch?
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 7:40 am Post subject: |
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| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
Hi all, I was checking out the wiring under the dash today since its all open and noticed this very small spring sticking out from my headlight switch. I assume this is a dimmer spring or something since my dimmer control does not function properly. Am I correct? If so do I need to replace the switch?
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I think that spring is for releasing the knob shaft from the head light switch. Or for detents in the shaft, so you know which setting it's on (parking light or full head lights). I'm not 100% sure, as I've never disassembled the headlight switch before (never had to). 
If you're having a problem with the dimmer switch, then the real problem lies in the turn signal assembly, or the wiring, or the relay itself. Usually, it'll be the ground wire not having a good ground connection though.
You can test the system with a jumper wire. Ground 1 end of it, and just touch the "S" terminal on the relay. If it clicks, then the relay is good, and the wiring or the switch is suspect.
You can ohm meter out the switch (use the tan wire with a white tracer and the tan wire connected to ground), and this will tell you whether the problem is the switch itself, or the wiring. Like I mentioned above, it's usually the ground wire connection (it usually is connected to a terminal that anchors the fuse box). I hope this helps.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:57 am Post subject: |
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| Bobnotch wrote: |
| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
Hi all, I was checking out the wiring under the dash today since its all open and noticed this very small spring sticking out from my headlight switch. I assume this is a dimmer spring or something since my dimmer control does not function properly. Am I correct? If so do I need to replace the switch?
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I think that spring is for releasing the knob shaft from the head light switch. Or for detents in the shaft, so you know which setting it's on (parking light or full head lights). I'm not 100% sure, as I've never disassembled the headlight switch before (never had to).
If you're having a problem with the dimmer switch, then the real problem lies in the turn signal assembly, or the wiring, or the relay itself. Usually, it'll be the ground wire not having a good ground connection though.
You can test the system with a jumper wire. Ground 1 end of it, and just touch the "S" terminal on the relay. If it clicks, then the relay is good, and the wiring or the switch is suspect.
You can ohm meter out the switch (use the tan wire with a white tracer and the tan wire connected to ground), and this will tell you whether the problem is the switch itself, or the wiring. Like I mentioned above, it's usually the ground wire connection (it usually is connected to a terminal that anchors the fuse box). I hope this helps. |
Sorry I should have been more clear - I was reffering to the dimmer for the gauge lights, not the high/low beams.
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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vlad01
Samba Member
Joined: October 27, 2010
Posts: 3069
Location: Australia
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| Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 6:01 pm Post subject: |
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yeah thats probably the rheostat winding that has stuffed up and popped out of the dimmer.
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The best of VW engine development!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BROWqjuTM0g
71 Aussie notchback, the money pit
92 VP vacationer, old faithful never die
95 VR executive, Restored beyond factory
92 VP S Pack, bought it new old |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 10:26 am Post subject: |
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Just back from summer holidays and couldn't resist taking the car out for a slow roll before the body comes off and the hard work begins...its the first time this car has moved more than 10 feet in over 20 years.
Link
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Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 3:18 am Post subject: |
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Hi all, I purchased a new ISP front windshield seal. I'm having a really hard time getting the trim to fit. Im using my original trim. Here is what I've done:
1. Removed windshield and old seal
2. Cleaned glass and fitted new seal to glass
3. Inserted a thin cord into the trim channel (weed eater line)
4. I can easily get one edge of the trim (the inside edge closest to the glass) into the trim channel.
5. I taped all the trim down to hold in place
6. Slowly removed the cord to get the outer rubber over the outer edge of the trim
I can get it started, but eventually the rubber slips back under the trim edge. It's almost as if the rubber isn't wide enough to cover the trim. I'm using the original trim that was removed from the original seal. It's in perfect condition.
Has anyone used original trim with new ISP seal and had this problem?
Am I doing something wrong?
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 4:45 am Post subject: |
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Can anyone answer my question about OG trim fitting in an ISP front windscreen seal? Its a brand new seal purchased a couple months ago.
I searched the threads and found several that said the OG trim fit before I made the purchase. My trim does not seem to fit.
This may be a really stupid question, but does the outer edge of the seal go over the trim edge? In other words, should the entire piece of trim fit in the groove?? Looking at the rest of my windows, I guess yes.
This is driving me nuts! Tips and tricks greatly appreciated!! Yelp!
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 7:54 am Post subject: |
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| Dlglobal1 wrote: |
Can anyone answer my question about OG trim fitting in an ISP front windscreen seal? Its a brand new seal purchased a couple months ago.
I searched the threads and found several that said the OG trim fit before I made the purchase. My trim does not seem to fit.
This may be a really stupid question, but does the outer edge of the seal go over the trim edge? In other words, should the entire piece of trim fit in the groove?? Looking at the rest of my windows, I guess yes.
This is driving me nuts! Tips and tricks greatly appreciated!! Yelp! |
Have a look thru Woreign's thread on his problem with the seal and trim. I believe there's a sketch in there showing how it's supposed to fit. The trim edge only goes inside the groove, not the entire trim piece. From the pics that Clatter posted (in his thread), the ISP trim looks just like the OE stuff, so it should fit.
You might need more tape and a helper though (maybe even 2 helpers) to install it. Keep in mind that once the seal is in place, it should lock everything in place. You might have to adjust the trim to sit flat on the seal in the curved part of the opening.
Note; I'm only going off what others have reported on doing that style of seal. I haven't tried actually installing that style of seal before.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
| Tram wrote: |
| "Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
| Tram wrote: |
| People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:38 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Bob!! I knew I saw that thread before and couldn't find it again! Ugh..I had the trim in correctly yesterday...so today was just silliness. All good now. There is some lift at the corners between glass and seal which I hope will flatten out when the glass is installed in the car. The other issue is that the trim groove does seem to be just slightly wider than the original rubber which makes it a bit large for my trim, so it swims in there a bit. Hopefully I can get it all secure.
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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I'm preparing to pull the gearbox and motor together. I've removed the cv bolts on the tranny side per Bently, but the axle and cv seem to be solidly attached to the cup. From the looks of things, they have never been removed before now. So before I go whacking away with the BFH...I thought I'd ask if that's the remedy or have I missed something??
Update: Problem solved - just needed to pull the axle shaft a bit and popped right off!
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 12:46 am Post subject: |
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Pulled the guts out! Now I will clean the engine bay and then next week the car is off to the surgeon for rust removal and repair. The motor and trans look really good out of the car. The exhaust will be tough to remove as its pretty rusted at the head bolts, but I guess that's part of the deal. In any case its a big step forward!!
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22431
Location: Kimball, Mi
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Dlglobal1
Samba Member
Joined: March 25, 2013
Posts: 350
Location: Denmark
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| Posted: Mon Nov 03, 2014 3:42 pm Post subject: |
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Been slow going on my project. Lots of life changes, new job, new baby etc. In any case, my car is at the shop getting surgery to repair all the rusted out body metal, so I've been slowly preparing the motor for rebuilding.
Before I post on that topic, I need to put my tail between my legs and shout out an apology to Mike Fisher for a negative exchange we had on the feedback forum some months ago.
I bought some body pieces from him that after close inspection, my body shop guy and I decided we didn't want to use. It was an expensive decision on my part, and in hindsight I made some comments and accusations that were unfair to Mike. He actually did make me aware that what he sold me wasn't the best stuff...there is no doubt that Mike has been and continues to be a great asset to and supporter of the Type 3 community as is evidenced by his frequent supportive posts and helpful comments.
So not sure if you'll see this Mike but sorry for not handling that in a better way. 
_________________
Cheers, David
1969 Bug
1972 Bug
1968 Mercedes 230 "Heckflosse"
1970 Type 3 Fastback 1600 TA L60D |
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