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ddare Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2005 Posts: 583 Location: Cypress, CA
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Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 12:40 pm Post subject: |
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W1K1 wrote: |
Did you check the sand seal to see if it's not worn out? That will cause a huge leak too.
Is the groove on the pulley from the seal?
They should have a speedi sleeve on there for the seal to ride on. If the surface is not smooth enough it will wear the seal quickly. |
It's possible the seal is worn out; now that the thermostat is connected it's a bit more of a pain for me to get the front half of the cooling shroud off so I can get a good look at it. I will work on getting that removed so I can check. I assume the ring on the cooling fan is from the sand seal. There was no speedi sleeve on the fan... maybe the lack of speedi sleeve caused the last seal to fail? |
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W1K1 Samba Member
Joined: March 04, 2004 Posts: 4921 Location: Southern AB
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Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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could be a combination of not having the right surface finish, or hardness of the metal on the pulley.
You can put a speedi sleeve on the pulley the way it is and have it work properly with a new seal _________________ http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php
1973 super
1965 squareback 1500E
1971 bay window westy- subi swap |
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ddare Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2005 Posts: 583 Location: Cypress, CA
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Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 5:45 am Post subject: |
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I took a closer look at the previously installed sand seal and it looks to be in perfect shape. It's pretty well stuck in there and I didn't feel like reefing on it too hard until the fan is ready, so it's still installed in the engine for the moment.
I also picked up the fan from a machine shop near my work; they welded the crack on the shaft and told me they were going to turn it but instead smoothed the weld with a dremel . . It looks and feels very smooth but visually you can see some flattened areas. The weld was a little sloppy on the inside, so I will need to file the woodruff key slot down as it only slides about halfway on to the crankshaft before it jams.
I haven't yet ordered a speedi sleeve as I haven't found the right part number yet, but it looks like a 1.785" diameter sleeve 0.9" in length would be just about right. |
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W1K1 Samba Member
Joined: March 04, 2004 Posts: 4921 Location: Southern AB
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ddare Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2005 Posts: 583 Location: Cypress, CA
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Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 1:09 pm Post subject: |
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W1K1 wrote: |
99179 speedi sleeve should work 1.778- 1.784" |
Thanks for the part number. My FLAPS did not have it in stock, so I'm going to have to look around f=kor that.
How much play is acceptable on the cooling fan? Do I need to install the pulley and bolt in order to test? It seems to me my fan is pretty wobbly and rocks on the crank more than it should. |
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ddare Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2005 Posts: 583 Location: Cypress, CA
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Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2014 6:52 am Post subject: |
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Success! I spent a while sanding smooth the ID and OD of the fan as it wasn't going on the crankshaft smoothly, installed a new sand seal, and got the engine reassembled... fired up the car last night, no leak from the fan, and took it for a 5 mile drive this morning, again, no leaks coming from the fan. Kind of stumped that the old sand seal was in as good a shape as it was, maybe the crack in the fan was contributing more than the surface of the seal to the leak...
I didn't install the speedi sleeve on the fan as I felt it wasn't needed after the crack in the fan was welded; I guess if a leak starts to develop that will be the next step. Next time I'm going to pull the engine from the car, disassembly & assembly seemed to take forever. |
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ddare Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2005 Posts: 583 Location: Cypress, CA
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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Well, I spoke too soon on this one guys. I think I must have just been low on oil earlier as I am still getting a good leak as seen in the video. I did check out the oil pump a little more closely a few weekends ago and one stud was stripped; also, the studs were too long and had warped the fan shroud, so I ground them down with an angle grinder, re-tapped the threads in the case for the stripped stud, and put in a new stud. Still getting the same leak though. |
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ddare Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2005 Posts: 583 Location: Cypress, CA
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 6:07 am Post subject: |
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I still don't have a good handle on this oil leak. I started taking the engine down yesterday, mainly to pull the oil pump and reseal it for peace of mind, but it appears the leak is coming from the split in the case between the crank shaft and the oil pump. It leaks a bit even when the engine isn't running. The case half nuts seemed to be pretty snug all the way around.
I apologize for the crappy cell phone pic (and the oil isn't that visible as I had wiped it a minute before to see if I could find any cracks in the area; none found).
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Mike Fisher Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006 Posts: 17970 Location: Eugene, OR
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Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 9:30 am Post subject: |
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The case halves have to be perfectly flat. If you file/mate them flat you don't even have to use Permatex etc on the case halves. _________________ https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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