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Madd Maxx
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2013
Posts: 80
Location: Cow Town
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 Posted: Sun May 18, 2014 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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Are the pedals supposed to be gloss or semi gloss black?
This is what gloss black looks like...
The gas pedal hardware from WW is a lot different than what I took apart. The WW does not have any holes for cotter pins. I may need help on this for re-assembly.
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My 1960 Ragtop bug build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=565565&highlight=1960
Wanted: 1960 truck lid & rear fenders |
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Madd Maxx
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2013
Posts: 80
Location: Cow Town
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Madd Maxx
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2013
Posts: 80
Location: Cow Town
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| Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:49 pm Post subject: Front beam assembly question |
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I've got the front beam off of the pan for rebuild, the link pins and king pins are worn badly. While I'm at it I am going to replace the needle bearings and inner bushings for the trailing links, inside the beam assembly. Anybody got any suggestions or things to watch out for during this process?
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My 1960 Ragtop bug build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=565565&highlight=1960
Wanted: 1960 truck lid & rear fenders
Last edited by Madd Maxx on Tue Jul 08, 2014 6:40 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Madd Maxx
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2013
Posts: 80
Location: Cow Town
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| Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 5:59 pm Post subject: |
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Oh-
I almost forgot, managed to break both of the top horizontal shock tower bolts off inside the assembly today. This bug restoration stuff is really great fun...
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My 1960 Ragtop bug build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=565565&highlight=1960
Wanted: 1960 truck lid & rear fenders |
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61SNRF
Samba Member
Joined: March 29, 2009
Posts: 4657
Location: Whittier 90602
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| Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 7:01 pm Post subject: Re: Front beam assembly question |
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| Madd Maxx wrote: |
| I've got the front beam off of the pan for rebuild, the link pins and king pins are worn badly. While I'm at it I am going to replace the needle bearings and inner bushings for the trailing links, inside the beam assembly. Anybody got any suggestions or things to watch out for during this process? |
I suggest you first review and then use the basic procedures outlined in the reprinted factory service manuals offered by Robert Bentley. Here is an example from one source...
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=BOOK1B
There are some great pictures and explanations there that will give you an idea of the procedures and what special tools you will need to acquire for a successful result...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/tools1.php
...or can have fabricated...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/local_manufacture.php
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-Bruce
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. |
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61SNRF
Samba Member
Joined: March 29, 2009
Posts: 4657
Location: Whittier 90602
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| Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 7:56 pm Post subject: |
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| Madd Maxx wrote: |
Oh-
I almost forgot, managed to break both of the top horizontal shock tower bolts off inside the assembly today. This bug restoration stuff is really great fun... |
Not good, because if those big bolts broke off taking them out, that means whatever is left in there is stuck pretty F'n tight! 
You're not the first one to have ever done it either, so don't take it too hard 
Try flipping the beam over and suspending it upside down so the shock towers can stay immersed in coffee cans filled with your home brewed rust resolver for a week or three.
For a successful extraction, no matter which type removal tool you choose, I suggest you want to make sure you try very hard to drill them 100% dead center right from the get go. Those bolts are harder (10.9 vs 8.8 or 5.5 metric grade) than normal, so start with a brand new quality Titanium or Cobalt 3/32" drill bit that's been oiled and then ran at a slow speed with great pressure. Once a hole is bored all the way through, go to up another new bit that's 1/16" larger. Keeping drilling up in diameter with new bits is this manner until the optimal size for your chosen extractor is reached.
Which type of extractor you choose is open for debate, for blind holes the slow spiral is one of my favorites...
...but with a hole all the way through and the bolt now core drilled which will relieve a lot of the stress, a common long spiral type made for 12 mm or ~7/16 bolts should work well...
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-Bruce
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. |
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bobnorman
Samba Newfoundlander
Joined: August 09, 2010
Posts: 1389
Location: Newfoundland
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| Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 5:57 am Post subject: |
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| 61SNRF wrote: |
| Madd Maxx wrote: |
Oh-
I almost forgot, managed to break both of the top horizontal shock tower bolts off inside the assembly today. This bug restoration stuff is really great fun... |
Not good, because if those big bolts broke off taking them out, that means whatever is left in there is stuck pretty F'n tight!
You're not the first one to have ever done it either, so don't take it too hard
Try flipping the beam over and suspending it upside down so the shock towers can stay immersed in coffee cans filled with your home brewed rust resolver for a week or three.
For a successful extraction, no matter which type removal tool you choose, I suggest you want to make sure you try very hard to drill them 100% dead center right from the get go. Those bolts are harder (10.9 vs 8.8 or 5.5 metric grade) than normal, so start with a brand new quality Titanium or Cobalt 3/32" drill bit that's been oiled and then ran at a slow speed with great pressure. Once a hole is bored all the way through, go to up another new bit that's 1/16" larger. Keeping drilling up in diameter with new bits is this manner until the optimal size for your chosen extractor is reached.
Which type of extractor you choose is open for debate, for blind holes the slow spiral is one of my favorites...
...but with a hole all the way through and the bolt now core drilled which will relieve a lot of the stress, a common long spiral type made for 12 mm or ~7/16 bolts should work well...
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Whatever you do, don't break off the extractor! That substance is the hardest known to man, and you won't be able to drill through it if it does break in the hole.
If you can see any of the remaining bolt, I'd first try welding a nut onto what's left of it (weld through the hole in the nut). That will give you something to turn and often the intense heat from welding will help free it up. Good luck!
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Air does not freeze. Air does not boil.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=289807 |
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Madd Maxx
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2013
Posts: 80
Location: Cow Town
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| Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 7:11 am Post subject: |
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Bruce and Bob-
Thanks for the info/advice!
I will get the manuals ordered today; should have done that a long time ago.
I started working on the first bolt that broke - yesterday, and finally had to walk away from it before I went into a blind rage. There is no chance of welding to what's in there. I used a transfer punch to get a centered hole, and stepped up through all the bits to a 1/4" drill bit, and then proceeded to ruin a brand new straight screw extractor. I had soaked the bolt with penetrating oil, but, not nearly long enough. The sort-of good news, I think, is that while using an impact I had moved both of them in and out a few threads while applying additional penetrating oil. They have at least been broken loose. I will turn them upside down and put them in penetrating solution in coffee cans this morning. Then on to the drill press at a later date.
Can you guys verify that these are M10X1.5 threads. In the event that I get them out, I need to chase the threads with a tap...
_________________
My 1960 Ragtop bug build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=565565&highlight=1960
Wanted: 1960 truck lid & rear fenders |
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Madd Maxx
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2013
Posts: 80
Location: Cow Town
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61SNRF
Samba Member
Joined: March 29, 2009
Posts: 4657
Location: Whittier 90602
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| Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 7:18 pm Post subject: |
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| Madd Maxx wrote: |
Can you guys verify that these are M10X1.5 threads. In the event that I get them out, I need to chase the threads with a tap... |
I don't have that era car or manual, so not real certain if the threads are 12 mm or 10 mm. The early shock bolts shown here (you're going to need two anyway, right?) look like they have a 12 mm shoulder but step down to a smaller thread, quite possibly 10 mm...
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111413401A
If no one chimes in you may have to wait until your manual arrives, or perhaps use your powers of observation and deduction That's part of the fun, isn't it? 
P.S. Can't blame your wife for having good taste in coffee 
They do sell that type of can brand new at DIY Home/paint centers in quart or gallon sizes, one should do it if you alternate it side to side. They come with a lid too so you can cap the stuff off for re-use at a later date or to deep soak small parts 
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-Bruce
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. |
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rusty60
Samba Member
Joined: September 15, 2013
Posts: 126
Location: camano island
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| Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 10:45 am Post subject: |
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| I just cut my shock off, I was going to replace anyway, got all new bolts and shocks, less crap in the way and you can access with vice grips and or pipe wrench to break free. I was happy when I got mine off finally |
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rusty60
Samba Member
Joined: September 15, 2013
Posts: 126
Location: camano island
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| Posted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 10:54 am Post subject: |
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| forgot to mention, they are shoulder bolts, no threads except on the ends, if you broke of bolt head or nut, will spin free, no threads in bolt housing. |
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mykidsbug
Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2011
Posts: 473
Location: SoSo Cal LA
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| Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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| So Max, any updates? |
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mykidsbug
Samba Member
Joined: April 07, 2011
Posts: 473
Location: SoSo Cal LA
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| Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 8:14 pm Post subject: |
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| So Max, any updates? |
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Madd Maxx
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2013
Posts: 80
Location: Cow Town
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| Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 2:06 am Post subject: |
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Soaking shock towers in homebrew
Note: This step should be done before breaking both upper shock tower bolts off in the housing...
Soaking lower link shock attachment point in homebrew, here I have the nut off, but the shock bushing is still on the stud
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My 1960 Ragtop bug build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=565565&highlight=1960
Wanted: 1960 truck lid & rear fenders |
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vdubmyk
Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2008
Posts: 508
Location: Corona, CA
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| Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 6:17 am Post subject: |
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The shock bushing sleeve will come off with a few chatters from the chisel end of an air hammer. Hit it at an angle and the vibration will break it loose.
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64 stock bug, 12V (converted 6v unit), 40 hp, all documents even sales contract and dealer window sticker! |
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Madd Maxx
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2013
Posts: 80
Location: Cow Town
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| Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 9:25 am Post subject: |
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| vdubmyk wrote: |
| The shock bushing sleeve will come off with a few chatters from the chisel end of an air hammer. Hit it at an angle and the vibration will break it loose. |
Thanks vdubmyk, I used a vise, a hammer and a small pipe wrench. I will try the air chisel on the other side.
The guys at "The Bug Stop" swear by these EMPI tubes - so that's plan A right now.
Soaking kingpin assembly for next weekend.
Getting prepared for reassembly
_________________
My 1960 Ragtop bug build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=565565&highlight=1960
Wanted: 1960 truck lid & rear fenders |
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Madd Maxx
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2013
Posts: 80
Location: Cow Town
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| Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 11:48 am Post subject: |
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The following is how I removed the trailing link axle stub (torsion arm) bushings from the axle beam assembly...
Tools required:
Engine stand
5/8" x 3' all thread rod
Two 5/8 nuts
Fender washer with OD equal to axle beam assembly ID with flats ground on sides to allow passage through bushings
Magnet w/ built in led light
Big hammer
Remember to take the grease zerks out first, there will be interference issues
This was the easiest thing I have removed from the car to date...
_________________
My 1960 Ragtop bug build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=565565&highlight=1960
Wanted: 1960 truck lid & rear fenders |
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cory464
Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2010
Posts: 659
Location: kokomo in
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| Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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| I really like the beam assembly stand! glad you are documenting everything, I am seeing a lot of innovation in your project. curious if you can provide more information about your sandblasting setup. |
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Madd Maxx
Samba Member
Joined: August 06, 2013
Posts: 80
Location: Cow Town
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| Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2014 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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| cory464 wrote: |
| I really like the beam assembly stand! glad you are documenting everything, I am seeing a lot of innovation in your project. curious if you can provide more information about your sandblasting setup. |
Hi Cory-
Thanks for looking... I gave a brief description on page four of this post. It's hooked up to a 4 hp. 25 gal. air compressor (bigger would be better - it always is!). The HF air gun is not all that great, I'm experimenting with a Paasche right now. Here is a bar napkin "print" for your review. I just cobbled it together from stuff I had laying around, for the most part. I tried a 5 gallon lexan bucket first, but, I could not make it work. My 6 hp shop vac was sucking all of the water out. I just kept playing with it until it worked. Some water is going to get through, but, it is capturing 99% of the aluminum oxide media that I'm currently using. Hope this helps.
_________________
My 1960 Ragtop bug build
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=565565&highlight=1960
Wanted: 1960 truck lid & rear fenders
Last edited by Madd Maxx on Wed Aug 06, 2014 6:27 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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