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1961- My First Bug
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dc
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Doing some photo research, it looks like I have RHD Oval era wipers Shocked
That's really odd...

This is a '54:
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And mine:
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Wheeliebot3000
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as I am aware, 65 and up wiper motors parked to the left. Since your beetle has been converted to 12 volt, and most likely has a later wiper motor, they should park to the left.
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dc
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm...odd- when you search for pictures they seem to park flat down in most cases- not many park so high on the left side like mine.
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Wheeliebot3000
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dc wrote:
Hmmm...odd- when you search for pictures they seem to park flat down in most cases- not many park so high on the left side like mine.

Maybe they aren't adjusted properly.
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dc
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few additions over the summer- but mostly I just drove it and enjoyed it!

Fluted headlight lenses:

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'58 Interior panels- not the right year but they look decent!

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dc
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fall is here in the Northwest-

Looking forward to the November 1st Show in Monroe

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61Ragster
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice score! And great progress as well. Wanted to ask if you have the right foot-actuated reserve lever for the fuel supply valve at the bottom of the tank. My '61 has that, but no gas gauge in the dash. You have the gauge, but back then that was a common mod, as people didn't like the uncertainty factor, I guess. Same with the larger tail lights that came out the following year. Now if you want to go back to originals -glass lens snowflakes- it'll cost a bunch. Mine were $100 plus shipping, and that was probably 15-20 years ago.
Regarding the wipers: mine park to the right, and the wiper arm shafts are offset to the left of car centerline, by an inch and a half or so. I believe the later ones that park to the left have the shaft/shaft holes offset to the right. So if the PO went to a newer 12 volt assembly the existing hole locations would not allow the left blade to go flat to the bottom of the windshield without running off the edge. Perhaps the blade travel was limited to avoid that. The proper fix I understand is to use the original motor assembly and change out the motor armature to a 12 volt, and all else stays the same. This is all from (hazy) memory from reading old threads. I'm still 6 volts myself...
Last item: of the two spare deck lids, I believe the blue one is correct for '61. Notice that the stamped/raised flare-a-ma-widget where the lic plate light assembly resides flares out at the bottom to about license plate width, where the other one is only about half that wide. Just thought I'd mention that...
But regardless, as is that's a nice car you've got. Enjoy!

P.S. Nice touch with the Motorola logo on the speaker!
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dc
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have the reserve lever - maybe the hole is still there- not sure!

Thanks for the wiper info. - my set-up is weird! The blue decklid is ready for paint and then I can install it- will do that when the door is repaired/painted.

Thanks for the positive feedback!
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EnjoyNukaCola
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That car has character and I like what you've done to it so far.
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SgtSamy
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I seriously love your speaker. Pretty awesome.
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dc
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really enjoying this Bug--
Finally had to spend some money on it. It needed a new clutch and some minor maintenance: oil cooler seals, fuel lines, bowden tube repair, and speedometer replacement.

The new Speedo is stamped 10-60 and the gel for the turn signals is RED-- never knew about that-- never had a VW this old.

FUN car - wish list is a return to Beryl Green, install correct decklid (have it), fix door damage and snowflake tail-lights Wink
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dc
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17, 2015 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm.... Odd Generator Light/Red Dash Light issue (actually it has an alternator now). I've done some research to remind me of the usual causes, but this is a strange one:

Light is Erratic- but sometimes it comes on like normal: when the car is started/goes out right away

Other times it does not come on at all (only the green light light works normal)

OR it comes on randomly after 15-20 minutes of driving (only to go out a short time later)

OR it does not come on at all until you reach your destination and then it shines briefly at shut-down (normal)

What I have checked/tried: Bulb is good, Fan-belt is good, all other electrical is good, ran a wire directly to dash bulb/gauge from alternator and the bulb did NOT come on with the key

Bulb does not glow or pulsate like regular ---revving engine versus low idle has zero effect even when it seems to be working.

I have not test alternator output- or checked battery voltage, but I have driven several times (out of necessity- and it made me nervous) now with no negative effect on engine performance what-so-ever. and again- sometimes the light works normally, just not for long or consistently... Question
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The alt/gen warning light works as such: switched power comes from the fuse box when you turn on the ignition, that power goes to a contact bar which is mounted on and insulated from the speedo head, the power is transferred from that bar to the body of the bulb holder and there to the bulb. From the base of the bulb we contact the base contact in the bulb holder, out the spade (or screw type on earlier bugs) connector, thence through the wire going back to the component. When the alt/gen isn't turning, the wire at the component works as a ground, thereby completing the circuit and allowing the warning light to turn on. When the alt/gen starts turning and producing power, it sends power out that wire which effectively removes the ground -- no ground, no circuit, no warning light.

Given the symptoms you are experiencing, the most likely cause of the fault is power is not coming into the bulb from the fuse box side. You can rule out the fuse box itself and the wire leading to the speedo head as the oil warning light uses the exact same power source. So, either the contact bar is dirty/corroded/cracked (check for power at the socket with the ignition on and the bulb holder removed), or your bulb holder isn't getting good contact with the bulb.
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dc
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You know what...I did recently replace the speedometer. I have tried a different bulb and holder. The wire that connects to the bulb is pretty nasty looking, hmmm more investigation needed.

Is the "contact bar" the black plastic bulb-holder that slides into the back of the speedo? EDIT: Ok- I had to read more carefully, I understand about the contact bar - it's mounted ON the bulb holder.
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glutamodo Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it is.

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dc
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't figure it out. Just messed with it some more.

Contact bar is fine. (12v at all sockets)
Bulbs are all fine.
Sockets are all fine (except the extra that I ruined pulling off a stuck connections)

The oil light works in either socket, as do all combinations of bulb/bulb holder.

I replaced the electrical connection on the alternator wire- no change.

Right now, the red light won't come on at all...
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dc
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's the trick to grounding the alternator wire to see if the light comes on?
I thought it was the small wire... labeled "D+" and I unplugged it and grounded it: light still did not come on

The alternator only had three wires.

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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 18, 2015 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should be the smaller blue wire.

Just because there is a wire there does not mean the wire or connectors on the ends of that wire are good.
Aftermarket cheap crimp on connectors like you have are junk. If you have to use them, cut off the plastic cover, then solder and heat shrink. Even better is to invest in factory quality brass connectors and inexpensive ratchet crimper tool.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=338938&highlight=uninsulated+crimper
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jzjames wrote:
Yes, Ive seen that page out of some dealership from ??? somewhere. OAC?
Its not VW of Germany, and probably just someone elses "best guess" about the primer drain holes in the bottoms of the window channels.
Just take a look at the OAC Project's "about" page;
http://oacdp.org/aboutdoc.html


Here is another official VW manual, "Body Leaks - VW Sedan
Slide Series No. 9" with same info.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/looklisten_9/page13.jpg

In the back is:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/looklisten_9/page16.jpg

You can see all the "Look Listen Do It Better", manuals that were provided for all VW dealership mechanics here:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/looklistendoitbetter.php
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 8:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep. Looks like those holes were put there so the paint would drain off nicely in the painting process Eric&Barb.
Youre right, I'm wrong.
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