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Vanapplebomb
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Location: Holland, MI
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dustymojave
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 Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 11:30 pm Post subject: |
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They are silicon-bronze, strong and hard. They last many times as long as stock replacement bushings.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 10:35 pm Post subject: |
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Some long over due pictures of my progress on the front beam.
Here are some shots of the bump stop that I relocated above the trailing arms. When I welded it on I angled it 10 degrees up to allow for a little more swing out of the arms. Triangular gussets help stiffen things up.
Cutting and turning the front beam a 1/4 in. To get leverage so I could twist the section I cut out, I tack welded on some scrap bar stock. Worked great. Twisted with one hand and tack welded the center section back in with the other hand. When finished, the bar stock lever was just cut off. The last one doesn't need any help twisting. It snaps right into position once cut free from the rest of the tube. I was surprised by how thick the beams are. These pictures were taken after the first tube was cut and re-welded.
Just for fun, I measured the position of the upper torsion anchor before and after the cut and turn using the front vertical face of the shock tower as a zero reference. First picture shows the Zero referance. The second picture is the torsion anchor in the stock position. Third picture is after the cut and turn. The upper arms dropped about 11 degrees.
Now for the fun part. Measuring the amount of swing the trailing arms now have. I used the underside of the snubber as the zero reference. Looks like I got approximately 80 degrees of swing between full drop and jounce.
Stock link pin trailing arms have a center to center spacing of 150mm between the link pin and the end that rides in needle bearings inside the beam. To figure out the distance of the arc traveled by the trailing arm just convert degrees into radians, and multiply by the length of the arm.
80deg = 80pi/180 radians
Arc length = 150mm(80pi/180) = 209.44mm, or about 8.25 inches for the metrically challenged.
That is a pretty fair distance for absorbing bumps. If you only care about vertical travel, just add the vertical distance the arm travels up from horizontal, and down from horizontal. As I mentioned earlier I welded the snubber mount 10 degrees above horizontal. The snubbers themselves have a 20 degree taper. Split the difference and add that to the angle it was mounted: the trailing arm can swing 20degrees up before contacting the snubber.
150mmSin(20pi/180) = 51.3mm.
Since the arms articulate 80 degrees between drop and jounce and 20 degrees of that is above horizontal, there is 60 degrees of articulation below horizontal.
150mmSin(60pi/180) = 129.9mm.
Add the two together and you get 181.2mm, or about 7.13 inches of travel in the vertical direction. Not bad for stock trailing arms.
Here are just a couple additional pictures I took. I still need to extend the shock towers as well as gusset the steering knuckles and spindle carriers. You can see the little strips of c-channel I welded in between the mounting brackets...reinforces the cut and turned section, but more importantly can serve as a mounting point for an ATV winch. With the places I like to go, I figured a winch may be important to have some day.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 4:37 pm Post subject: |
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More fun with cardboard...
It has been a while since I posted any updates. I got a few things I have been working on. Extending the shock towers to use VW Transporter (Type 2) rear shocks has been on the table. I needed to know the taper of the shock towers, and how far the leading edge of the tower is laid back. Turns out the towers taper 8 degrees, and the leading edge of the shock tower is laid back about 30 degrees. Sweet.
So, the plan is to cut open the shock towers, splice in a 1/4in plate, weld up the seams, add a M12 threaded boss to the plate, then gusset the shock tower at a right angle like the aftermarket shock tower kits. $90 for a couple pieces of laser cut steel welded together. 
Time to do some butchering!!! I cut out the spot welded seam from the bumper mount all the way around to the opposite side. A 1/6in thick 4.5in cut off wheel on an angle grinder gets her done. This is just wide enough to jam a 1/4in plate in. Notice I did not cut through the existing shock boss.
You guys already got a sneak peek at the cardboard template for the insert. Here it is welded into place. What you can not see is that I made a slot up the center so that it will slide around the shock boss in the original shock towers.
Since this is low carbon hot rolled steel, it will need a sturdy gusset to keep it from tucking inwards at the top where the shock will thread into the M12 boss. I haven't gotten that far yet.[/img]
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 4:39 pm Post subject: |
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Lately I have been having way to much fun bombing around the UP. Lots of great exploring to do here in the keweenaw. I'm usually out whenever I'm not in class or working on a project. Waterfalls, copper, and Iron have been calling my name. I found a bunch of new specimens of copper as well as some beautiful samples of specular hematite (iron ore). I also scrounged up some good sized greenstone (the Michigan state gem). Hopefully I can find someone who can remove them from the basalt and polish them up. Could be pretty if done right. But now the black flies are out and exploring has become a bit more painful. The other day I popped a tire (3rd time this summer...gosh) and had to stop in the woods to patch it. I got eaten alive out there. You can hardly see those darn black flies but they draw blood! Thanks to them my arms, legs, and neck look like I have chickenpox. It's fantastic...
...So I decided to get back to this project.
I started some work on gusseting the shock towers. The gussets run between the upper torsion tube and where the threaded shock mount boss will be located. Not to much to show. I only got one fitted and welded down. Pretty simple really. The only tricky part was contouring the face that butted up against the existing shock towers. Even that wasn't to bad...just time consuming for the most part. The last picture shows the threaded shock mounting boss clamped to the inside face of the shock tower. The tower will get drilled through and a spacer-ish like thing attached on the other side to locate the shocks...don't know yet. I am kinda winging this one. Nothing quite like flying by the seat of my pants
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
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Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:18 pm Post subject: |
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A few weeks back I picked up a few boxes of engine parts from DaveT, a member of our Michigan Air Cooled Vintage Volkswagen club, TheGoodVolks. Check it out Michigan guys! Sorry, couldn't help throw an advertisement in.
I picked up a bunch of Type 4 parts. The short block is an EC out of a porsche 914. I also got a pair of 1.8 heads that were in pretty good shape. Good enough to be used as cores for a rebuild. They have the large 41mm intake and 34mm exhaust valves. I got some of the sheet metal for the cooling system, a blower shroud, two fans, the alternator, some headers, and the factory dual Solex pdsit carbs. I also got an old '72 oil bath air cleaner. Yeah yeah, I know, bring on the criticism. The way I see it, I will give it a try, if it works out, I will keep it. If not, I will just cut the coconut hair section out and convert it to a paper type. These oil bath air cleaners are surprisingly large, and the design looks much better than the fun-size ones that came on bug engines. At any rate, here are a few pictures of the stuff I got.
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Vanapplebomb
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Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 6:11 pm Post subject: |
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I started work on the top end of the engine; air cleaner, carbs, and heads. AutoZone has a cool loan-a-tool program. A valve spring compressor can be had for a $25 security deposit. Bring it back and you get your 25 bucks back. I pulled the valves on my heads. These are the carbureted 1800 heads with the large 41mm intake valves and 34mm exhaust valves. I'm going to replace all the guides and exhaust valves, and get a good three angle cut on the valve seats. The intake valves may still be good. I will have to measure them and make sure they are not stretched or have stems worn more than 0.025mm. If they check out I will have my local automotive machine shop regrind them on his valve grinding machine.
One of the heads looked like it had the exhaust manifold get crunched hard by something. The exhaust stud boss had a good size chunk racked off, so I brought it to my local machine shop to weld it to build up some material, and machine it for the stock studs.
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Brian
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| Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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So whats the decision on the air cleaner, sticking with the oil?
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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The design of the 72 bus oil bath looks really good. The baffle design looks better than the fun-size ones used on the bugs and earlier buses that use the type 1. It is also much bigger. I am cleaning it up and going to give it a go. If it works, great, I will keep it.
If oil slosh becomes an issue, then I will just cut out the coconut hair canister and fit it with a paper element. If I ended up cutting out the coconut hair element, I could fit a very large paper element it. At least 8in in diameter, and at least 4 inches tall. It would probably fit one bigger than that.
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
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Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 3:44 pm Post subject: |
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| lustig69 wrote: |
| So whats the decision on the air cleaner, sticking with the oil? |
I cleaned it up a few days ago. I have pictures I can post up if you want.
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JabaDubRider
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Joined: June 02, 2012
Posts: 341
Location: Highland Mi
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| Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Vanapplebomb wrote: |
| lustig69 wrote: |
| So whats the decision on the air cleaner, sticking with the oil? |
I cleaned it up a few days ago. I have pictures I can post up if you want. |
What a silly question!! Of course we want pictures!!
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5411
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 5:24 pm Post subject: |
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Seeing as how this is the off road forum, I think I am going to take some flak for this one, but since you wanted it...
This is a post that I wrote a while back for the Bay Window Bus forum where these filters are somewhat popular. They also appeared on the early carbureted 411's. I figured it was worth cleaning up and giving it a try since I already had it on hand. Guess we will find out.
| Vanapplebomb wrote: |
I recently got my hands on a 72 oil bath air cleaner and decided to breath some new life into it. The air cleaner itself was rusty and the flaps were sticking.
I started by pulling everything apart. I uncliped the top and removed it. Then I started pulling the flaps. To remove the nylon clips that hold the flaps in you need to pinch the ends of them with a pair of pliers. While pinching them, pull up on them. They should pop out pretty easy. Before you pull the thermostat flap, disconnect the vacuum motor diaphragm. It is held in by two flat head screws. Once they are loose, you can tilt the vacuum motor diaphragm and slide the rod out of the clip on the top of the flap. Finagling the metal flaps out of the snorkel can be a bit more tricky. Both need to be removed. The gravity flap and the thermostat flap. Once the flaps are removed the snorkel should look like this.
This is the hardware and flaps that were removed.
Once the housing was completely stripped of hardware, I cleaned as much large crud off as I could, then I put it in the dishwasher for a good cleaning. I took the coconut hair canister and soaked it in a degreaser solution. You can use pretty much any degreaser that you want to. Kerosene works well, but is a bit pricy just to use as a cleaner. I used Pine Sol in the kitchen sink. Let the coconut hair element soak for several minutes, then dunk it several times and let the solution drain out. You will be amazed at the crap that comes out of it. Once that was finished, I drained the dirty solution and refiled the sink with clean water. I then dunked the element several times again to get as much of the degreaser out as I could.
Once that was over I put it in the oven at low heat for a couple hours to dry it out.
With all the parts cleaned up, I used a wire brush to remove the majority of the rust scale. Some rough parts I sanded down to smooth it out a bit. I did not strip the rust down to bare metal. I left a thin layer of rust on the parts. Spraying rust neutralizer onto it starts a chemical reaction that makes a surface that is ready for paint, similar to a primer. A couple coats of the rust neutralizer dries it should be a dark color like the top of this.
The paint you use needs to be chemically resistant to stand up to constant contact with fuel vapors and oil. VHT's Engine Enamel works very well. Spray on two thin coats ten minutes apart. Then apply a medium coat ten minutes later. Once it dries to the touch, put the parts in the oven at 200 deg F for one hour. This creates a nice hard and chemically resistant surface.
The following pictures show the sequence of the reassembly. This is the bare snorkel.
The next step is to insert the counterweighted flap into the slot.
Then you need to clip the shaft into the natural colored nylon clip. Once you get it clipped into the bushing, compress the two tabs on the top with a pliers and push it down into the slot until it locks.
Then insert the thermostat flap into the bottom of the snorkel. Make sure the metal clip on the surface of the flap is facing up so that you can hook up the vacuum motor. It needs to be in this orientation for it to work.
Once you slide the flap into the snorkel, hook it to the black nylon pivot, pinch the two tabs on the pivot and press it down into the snorkel.
Then insert the vacuum motor diaphragm into the top of the snorkel in this orientation. When you fish it through the top, tilt it and slide the rod though the metal clip in the top of the thermostat flap.
Lastly, screw down the metal strap over the vacuum motor diaphragm.
Enjoy! |
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Vanapplebomb
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Location: Holland, MI
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Vanapplebomb
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Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2014 3:21 pm Post subject: |
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I got the original 1800 41mm intake valves measured. They are in excellent condition. No stretching and the stems are only worn half a thousandth of an inch.
I stopped by one of my engine rebuilder who specializes in heads for a chat. What a fun guy. We went over what should be done to the heads. Since all the intake valves checked out he recommended regrinding them since there was more than enough meat left on them. I had never heard of them, but he told me that SI or Manley exhaust valves are what he would wants to use. We found the correct 34mm x 9mm x 117mm exhaust valve in his SI catalog. He would then make sure all the valves are round and true, replace and ream out new valve guides, etc. His specialty is valves, guides, and seats. Although the seats look like they are solid he want's to check just to be safe. If they are good, then do a three angle cut on the existing seat to make sure everything is concentric so the valves seal properly. If not, he would run a weld bead along the inside of the seat pull them out, machine the head, and install new oversized seats.
I'm pretty excited about freshening up these 1800 heads to say the least.
You guys would probably get a kick out of his shop. It is a modest size, but man does he work on some cool projects. He has been working on heads from propane powered trucks. He showed me some of the valves and seats that came out of the engines. Ouch! Nasty burnt up parts for overheating. I have never seen so many little cracks and pie slices missing from exhaust valves in my live. Nuts. He is trying to find the best combination of valves, seats, and spring pressures to last as long as possible without catastrophic failure in propane powered commercial trucks. He also has been plugging away at some heads for a full on methanal powered BMW. It is really fun to see someone get so excited and passionate about their work. I'm pretty sure I just wasted an hour of his working day talking about engines. It will be a while before he will have time to work on the heads as he is currently backed up with hot rodding some European engines, working on his project with propane commercial vehicle heads, and building a HUGE chrysler v8 for a vintage muscle car. Dangggg...
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Vanapplebomb
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Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 11:02 pm Post subject: |
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I pulled the pistons today. It was a piece of cake. Simply pull one of the snap rings off the piston, and push out the wrist pin enough to remove the piston from the rod. As I pulled them off I labeled them with a Sharpie marker so I know their position in the engine. The pistons are in amazing condition. It must have had low miles on the engine. The skirts have minimal wear, no collapsed skirts, and are original 93mm Mahle pistons. Top notch parts. Real keepers.
These engines have real snap rings, not the cheesy wire pieces Type 1 engines have that I have seen fail and destroy the pistons and cylinders.
Massive rods.
Original Mahle Pistons.
Takes only a couple minutes to pull all four pistons. Piece of cake!
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Vanapplebomb
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Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 11:31 pm Post subject: |
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Removing the big honkin' 24mm lifters. No need to split the case on a Type 4 to remove or install the lifters. They just slide right in and out of the bores, which are 5mm larger than the Type 1 engines.
These will be sent to European Motorworks to be reground along with the Cam. EMW has a cool exchange program. Send them your cam and lifters, and they will send you back a reground set. $40 for the cam, $40 for a set of 8 lifters.
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Brian
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Vanapplebomb
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Vanapplebomb
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| Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 4:39 pm Post subject: |
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Pulled all the old rings on the pistons.
I took one of the compression rings and cracked it so it was about 1/3rd the circumference of the piston. I used the square end of the ring as a compression ring groove cleaner to remove carbon build up. I slipped it into the grove and rolled the piston underneath of it. The ring did a good job at scraping away the deposits.
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dustymojave
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Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2014 6:16 pm Post subject: |
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| Vanapplebomb wrote: |
| I'm surprised Richard hasn't dropped by to slap me across the face for this |
http://gph.is/1dqPCEC
http://gph.is/1gWbOun
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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