Type I engine in a Type III

re_buchanan · Posted: Fri May 20, 2011 4:16 pm Post subject:

I know it's bad form and all to resurrect a dead thread, but since it's in the FAQ here goes:

So are you folks saying that a T3 long block diverges significantly from a T1 long block? I'm picking up something about the distributor drive gear being offset and there being some additional hole needed in the case?

Thanks and my apologize for resurrecting the dead (and my deepest apologizes for asking a question that has been answered elsewhere, if it has and I'm sure it has.)

supaninja · Posted: Fri May 20, 2011 4:27 pm Post subject:

great question.

the distributor drive gear can be re-indexed(also the spark plug wires can be reindexed too but thats the sorta-ghetto way to do it), but the difference in the case is the flange at the bottom of the case for the type 3 oil fill tube, and the threaded bosses in the case for the engine hanger if your mounting it to a IRS subframe. If your mounting it to a swing axle subframe then you don't need to worry about the bosses for the hanger.

Thats pretty much it for the differences. Type 3 heads have a boss for threading in cylinder head temp sender(only on FI heads).
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rosevillain · Posted: Fri May 20, 2011 4:42 pm Post subject:

Also, the stud for the oil cooler needs to be changed, a type 1 is too short. If your engine is early factory d-jet, you need to remove the inside stud for the AAR(fuel pump), as the temp sensor goes there. If you have a large oil pump, it may contact thw fan shroud.

Bobnotch · Posted: Sat May 21, 2011 5:44 am Post subject:

jimmynotch · Posted: Sat May 21, 2011 8:34 am Post subject:

I know there is a FAQ at the top, but maybe we need this thread (or one of the other hundred just like it) stickied to the top. This topic and "type 1 beam in a type 3" get asked all the time.
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Chory · Posted: Sat May 21, 2011 6:46 pm Post subject:

How 'bout we post a sitcky that just says "Type 1 _____ in a Type 3: just don't; you want a Beetle, go buy a Beetle."
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Robert L. Imhoff · Samba Member Joined: February 21, 2004 Posts: 2

the motor was bad I put a standard shift motor in be now I have a bad knock in it does anyone have a clue what it might be.

Tram · Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 5:16 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 auto squareback

Robert L. Imhoff · Samba Member Joined: February 21, 2004 Posts: 2

Bobnotch · Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2014 7:18 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 auto squareback

DONGKG · Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:44 am Post subject:

I beleive that there were thread on this topic before. At any rate, type 3 has a different cooling system compared to type 1 engine. The isolation of the cold and hot air is the key factor for the type 3 engine's life and reliability. Take note that the cool air is sucked by the blower from the sides (for Squarebacks and Fastbacks), and on the louvers near the base of the rear wind sheild for notch back. Meaning, the engine should not suck hot air from the inside becuase the engine will suffer for extreme heat generated by the continuous supply of hot air from the inside.

Worst, if this cycle happened in a traffic jam, the engine is overheat in due time. So, installing a type 1 engine on a type 3 engine bay will entail lots of fabrications and modifications if you will have the hot air below and cool air isolated. Chances are you will have to fabricate tins and other sheet metal to cover the engine bay on the intake manifold level.

I fellow friend of mine used this scheme on his fasty when he installed a tyep 1 engine. And it worked (at least for him!). But again, this work to be poured on this conversion is huge... I can say...
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stevensjames · Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 3:57 pm Post subject:

Ok, I have been reading through the T3 forums trying to gain as much knowledge as possible while helping a friend with his newly acquired T3 and since I have most experience in T1 and T2s, I finding very helpful. So, now I have caught the T3 "bug" now also and found a nice Notchback (1963) that the owner installed a upright (later year) T1 engine in it. It does come with the original engine but it is seized. So, I was considering purchasing and then swapping the cooling parts over to the upright to make a pancake again but I still confused. What all is different about the long-blocks? I understand the oil dipstick and filler so would have to figure that out but I also see something about the oil cooler and distributer drive. Do I need a different cooler mount? Re-index the distributer? Anything else? Since is early I don't think need to worry about "mustache". I just want to be sure if I pull the running engine out, I can get it back together and installed using the proper T3 cooling system before purchasing. Thanks

eyetzr · Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 5:13 am Post subject:

oil cooler is a lay down style, the distributor may interfere with the fan housing. If you get the original motor (seized) with the deal, you should have all your parts. Get yourself a Bently manual & you should be cruising in no time. Post some pictures of your new ride. Wink

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stevensjames · Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 9:29 am Post subject:

Thank you!

Mike Fisher · Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 10:20 am Post subject:

Leave the Type 1 engine in it to drive while you rebuild the correct engine. Never hurts to have 2 complete running engines!
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mattmcgee21 · Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 10:47 pm Post subject:

I have to jump in on this thread. I've been planning to have a 1914cc built for my 67 fastback. I called up Bernie Bergmann to ask about his engines and he said he doesn't do type 3 engines which was totally cool. But then he said that the biggest motor i could run is a 1776 to fit under the deck lid! That can't be true right? i respect the hell out of that guy but there's an article in the June Hot VW's about Mike Unland's notch with a sweet 1914 under the lid. And i'm almost positive that CB has a setup with short manifolds and dual Weber's that fits under the deck lid. I'm confused and can use any direction you guys can give me. Shocked

Bobnotch · Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 5:41 am Post subject:

Bobnotch · Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 5:48 am Post subject:

W1K1 · Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:00 am Post subject:

mattmcgee21 · Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:39 am Post subject:

The only thing i could think of that he meant was that a bigger engine would need more carburation and therefore carbs and air filter would not fit under the lid if i went up to dual Weber's or something similar but i know that isn't true either. It was one of those moments where you know something isn't true but you start second guessing because the other guy seems so confident. Thanks for the input guys. I really appreciate it.


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