Author |
Message |
19super73 Hardcore Stock Nazi
Joined: October 18, 2007 Posts: 4351 Location: Cité Soleil
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Tram Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003 Posts: 22697 Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
|
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 10:31 am Post subject: |
|
|
Eh? It just screws out and screws in. Done them on Type 3, Buses, Beetles, etc. many times. What's the issue here? Am I missing something? Photo? _________________ Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
Bryan67 wrote: |
Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile |
|
Back to top |
|
|
19super73 Hardcore Stock Nazi
Joined: October 18, 2007 Posts: 4351 Location: Cité Soleil
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21474 Location: Oklahoma City
|
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 11:48 am Post subject: |
|
|
I use a deep 13mm socket. I used an angle grinder to cut a notch in the side...works better than a drilled hole in my experience. The notch is about halfway up the side of the socket. The outer mouth of the notch is about 14mm. The inner hole I ground around the edges with a dremel tool to deburr and widen. The inner hole at the vertex of the notch is about 11mm.
It happens to be a 3/8 drive socket so when I use it I put a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter on it and use a 6" 1/4" drive extension and 1/4" ratchet. If you have the requisite amount of fuel line stubs between rails and injectors you should be able to remove the sensor on the 411/412 without removing anything. Always put anti-seize on the sensor. Ray |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Tram Samba Socialist
Joined: May 02, 2003 Posts: 22697 Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
|
Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 11:46 am Post subject: |
|
|
raygreenwood wrote: |
I use a deep 13mm socket. I used an angle grinder to cut a notch in the side...works better than a drilled hole in my experience. The notch is about halfway up the side of the socket. The outer mouth of the notch is about 14mm. The inner hole I ground around the edges with a dremel tool to deburr and widen. The inner hole at the vertex of the notch is about 11mm.
It happens to be a 3/8 drive socket so when I use it I put a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter on it and use a 6" 1/4" drive extension and 1/4" ratchet. If you have the requisite amount of fuel line stubs between rails and injectors you should be able to remove the sensor on the 411/412 without removing anything. Always put anti-seize on the sensor. Ray |
At VW and Mercedes both, they specifically told techs NOT to use any sort of coating whatsoever on the sensor as that could interfere with the reading. _________________ Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
Bryan67 wrote: |
Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
To best contact me, please use the EMAIL function in my profile |
|
Back to top |
|
|
KTPhil Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2006 Posts: 33875 Location: Conejo Valley, CA
|
Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 12:59 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I believe there is a conductive anti-sieze compound that is used on oxygen sensors in newer cars. That might do the trick, but you have to be very careful not to let it migrate beyond the threads. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21474 Location: Oklahoma City
|
Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 1:15 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Yes....it can interfere with grounding (anti-seize).....if its heavily/improperly applied. Dont use the run of the mill copper/silica anti-seize like never seize or aluminum permatex or C5a....use nickle anti seize.
The alternative on type 4 heads is that roughly 50% of them strip the threads in the head on removal if nothing is aplied. You cant use oil. The first few times the head gets close to max temp the oil carbonizes...making the tightest bond you can imagine and guarantees stripped threads on removal after a long period of being torqued in.
In a watercooled car where head times stay sane....I fully agree with putting the sensor in dry or very lighy oiled. Ray |
|
Back to top |
|
|
19super73 Hardcore Stock Nazi
Joined: October 18, 2007 Posts: 4351 Location: Cité Soleil
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
old DKP driver Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2005 Posts: 4145 Location: Los Gatos,Ca.
|
Posted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:38 pm Post subject: Temp Sensor 2 Socket |
|
|
Hi Boy does this bring back fond memories when I first started out as a
dealer tech in 1971
I still have my Snap-On temp sensor socket S 5909 IS THE PART# but I don't think its manufactured any longer. I did a search though and found a
listing for it. www.thegaragegazette.com
But yeah as Ray mentioned you can make one with a deep 13mm 6 point
socket and cut a wide enough grove for the wire to fit into.
also posted a pic of mine in the gallery.
Chris _________________ V.W.owner since 1967 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
19super73 Hardcore Stock Nazi
Joined: October 18, 2007 Posts: 4351 Location: Cité Soleil
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
dawie Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2008 Posts: 217 Location: Cape Town, South Africa
|
Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 12:08 am Post subject: |
|
|
Other option is to do it Ray Greenwood's way. Extend the sensor's wire to the dashboard, and fit a potentiometer with knob. This then acts like a "manual choke" instead of the standard sensor's "automatic choke" type action.
This is also great for fault finding purposes.
I still have my unconnected temp sensor in the head, but the variable option is so much nicer that i would not change the wiring back to the sensor. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
raygreenwood Samba Member
Joined: November 24, 2008 Posts: 21474 Location: Oklahoma City
|
Posted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 8:28 am Post subject: |
|
|
Cant believe you rememebered that ......off and on I have been working on a potentiometer that runs on an adjustable timer so you can adjust the rate at which it kicks in. But....I found through testing that it will require a seasonal setting adjustment.
I actually do like the manual adjustment though. My new engine coming up in the fall will not be using a CHT/TS-2 with D-jet. I just have not decided which version of manual CHT I will use yet.
A while back I was also playing with the idea of making a switch unit or gauge with a range of 7 LED lights (the last manual cht I made was a small board with 7 resistance steps and it worked fantastic).....each led light would only light at a specific head temp range so you just match your dial to the lighted LED during warm up and then switch to run when it lights up.
Problem is that the thermister that runs the led array would be as long term unreliable as far as linearity goes.....as the stock cht.
Manual axjusting works just excellent so far. The system does not require infinite adjustability like the stock cht has. It only requires about 5-9 general resistance settings depending on your ambient. In this way you automatically keep the resistance from dropping too low. Ray |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|