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Temp sensor II replacement tips and tricks
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19super73
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 8:11 am    Post subject: Temp sensor II replacement tips and tricks Reply with quote

As in, who as some? Much easier on a Beetle, and I modified a 13mm deep socket to do the job, and of course the intake is in the way of accessing it. FML. Is there an easy or easier way of going about this little job, or am I looking at taking the injectors, fuel rail and intake off to get at this little gem of a sensor that his making my life unhappy?
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Tram
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eh? It just screws out and screws in. Done them on Type 3, Buses, Beetles, etc. many times. What's the issue here? Am I missing something? Photo?
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19super73
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the deep socket modded so I can uninstall/install and not have the wire interfer (drill pressed a hole through the side of it), did you clip the lead wire and use a short 13mm socket? I will get a pic tonight.
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1970 Campmobile [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-47260.png]Click to view image[/URL]
1970 Fastback 1600 TL
1971 Doka [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-14845.png]Click to view image[/URL]
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 03, 2014 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a deep 13mm socket. I used an angle grinder to cut a notch in the side...works better than a drilled hole in my experience. The notch is about halfway up the side of the socket. The outer mouth of the notch is about 14mm. The inner hole I ground around the edges with a dremel tool to deburr and widen. The inner hole at the vertex of the notch is about 11mm.

It happens to be a 3/8 drive socket so when I use it I put a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter on it and use a 6" 1/4" drive extension and 1/4" ratchet. If you have the requisite amount of fuel line stubs between rails and injectors you should be able to remove the sensor on the 411/412 without removing anything. Always put anti-seize on the sensor. Ray
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Tram
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
I use a deep 13mm socket. I used an angle grinder to cut a notch in the side...works better than a drilled hole in my experience. The notch is about halfway up the side of the socket. The outer mouth of the notch is about 14mm. The inner hole I ground around the edges with a dremel tool to deburr and widen. The inner hole at the vertex of the notch is about 11mm.

It happens to be a 3/8 drive socket so when I use it I put a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter on it and use a 6" 1/4" drive extension and 1/4" ratchet. If you have the requisite amount of fuel line stubs between rails and injectors you should be able to remove the sensor on the 411/412 without removing anything. Always put anti-seize on the sensor. Ray


At VW and Mercedes both, they specifically told techs NOT to use any sort of coating whatsoever on the sensor as that could interfere with the reading.
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe there is a conductive anti-sieze compound that is used on oxygen sensors in newer cars. That might do the trick, but you have to be very careful not to let it migrate beyond the threads.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes....it can interfere with grounding (anti-seize).....if its heavily/improperly applied. Dont use the run of the mill copper/silica anti-seize like never seize or aluminum permatex or C5a....use nickle anti seize.
The alternative on type 4 heads is that roughly 50% of them strip the threads in the head on removal if nothing is aplied. You cant use oil. The first few times the head gets close to max temp the oil carbonizes...making the tightest bond you can imagine and guarantees stripped threads on removal after a long period of being torqued in.
In a watercooled car where head times stay sane....I fully agree with putting the sensor in dry or very lighy oiled. Ray
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19super73
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, as with most things, the issue was with the "mechanic" not so much anything else. My deep socket is 1/2" drive, and it's too large to fit and get the TSII. I tried the 3/8" drive and it fits in just fine. I will mod this one tomorrow to accept the wire and do the uninstall/install.
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1970 Fastback 1600 TL
1971 Doka [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-14845.png]Click to view image[/URL]
1973 Super Beetle
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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 31, 2014 3:38 pm    Post subject: Temp Sensor 2 Socket Reply with quote

Hi Boy does this bring back fond memories when I first started out as a
dealer tech in 1971 Laughing

I still have my Snap-On temp sensor socket S 5909 IS THE PART# but I don't think its manufactured any longer. I did a search though and found a
listing for it. www.thegaragegazette.com

But yeah as Ray mentioned you can make one with a deep 13mm 6 point
socket and cut a wide enough grove for the wire to fit into.

also posted a pic of mine in the gallery.


Chris
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19super73
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 01, 2014 7:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The second socket I drilled a hole in worked like a charm. I also used an extension that allowed about 15 degrees of movement back and forth. The sensor came out with absolutely no issues, and I think it was the original.
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1970 Campmobile [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-47260.png]Click to view image[/URL]
1970 Fastback 1600 TL
1971 Doka [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-14845.png]Click to view image[/URL]
1973 Super Beetle
1973 Westfalia [url=https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-31892.png]Click to view image[/URL]
1974 412 Variant
1975 La Grande Bug
1984 Vanagon
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dawie
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Other option is to do it Ray Greenwood's way. Extend the sensor's wire to the dashboard, and fit a potentiometer with knob. This then acts like a "manual choke" instead of the standard sensor's "automatic choke" type action.

This is also great for fault finding purposes.

I still have my unconnected temp sensor in the head, but the variable option is so much nicer that i would not change the wiring back to the sensor.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 02, 2014 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cant believe you rememebered that Very Happy ......off and on I have been working on a potentiometer that runs on an adjustable timer so you can adjust the rate at which it kicks in. But....I found through testing that it will require a seasonal setting adjustment.

I actually do like the manual adjustment though. My new engine coming up in the fall will not be using a CHT/TS-2 with D-jet. I just have not decided which version of manual CHT I will use yet.
A while back I was also playing with the idea of making a switch unit or gauge with a range of 7 LED lights (the last manual cht I made was a small board with 7 resistance steps and it worked fantastic).....each led light would only light at a specific head temp range so you just match your dial to the lighted LED during warm up and then switch to run when it lights up.
Problem is that the thermister that runs the led array would be as long term unreliable as far as linearity goes.....as the stock cht.

Manual axjusting works just excellent so far. The system does not require infinite adjustability like the stock cht has. It only requires about 5-9 general resistance settings depending on your ambient. In this way you automatically keep the resistance from dropping too low. Ray
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