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Rough estimate for paint
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Mulcheese
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 1:20 pm    Post subject: Rough estimate for paint Reply with quote

I have my van in the body shop right now getting some work done on the front.http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=260706&highlight=

The shop is going to stop at primer. Next I will be painting the entire van after I do my own minor body work on small dents and surface rust. I will then remove lenses, mirrors, bumpers....... and sand it down some. I say some because the next step is where I am still trying to decide what to do.

I am debating on painting it myself or having Maaco shoot it. I am confident that I have the ability to paint on my own with time but I am not sure how much I will be saving.

I am not interested in a glossy epoxy coat considering what the van is subjected to. I goes camping with kids and they and myself are not gentle on the van and that is what it is for. It will get scratched and Im fine with that but I want it to look fairly nice and that look to last some time. I'm looking into 1 stage urethane. Same color, white.

If I go at this on my own I will not cut many corners.
I plan to:
1. sand from 120-600 (at different stages)
2. (edit:)epoxy primer, High build primer, Sealer.
3. 1 stage Urethane.
All this with PPG or Dupont or equal quality

If Maaco shoots it I will:
1. filler where needed
2. rattle can prime over filler untill they get to it.
3. sand to remove rust and prep for paint.
4. remove parts.

Maaco can do the 1 stage urethane (sand, seal, paint) for just over $800.

What would I be in for ($$) if I went out on my own?
How much (gal, quarts) would I also need of each for a vanagon from the gutters down?
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Last edited by Mulcheese on Sat Aug 16, 2014 5:13 am; edited 1 time in total
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lightice
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 9:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not use epoxy primer instead of etching?
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Mulcheese
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 4:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will be sanding down to bare metal in some spots and also using filler.

After reading further it appears that etching primer is bad with filler so it seems that I will be using epoxy.

Thanks for the catch.
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lightice
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think more importantly, epoxy primer allows you to have a longer time frame between laying down the primer and the colour coats. Also, epoxy primer is available easily as high build.

Gives you more time to do the rest of the body filler etc.

We have used marine grade epoxy for floorboards/pans with great preservation results.

One thing to note is that epoxy doesn't bode well with direct sunlight/UV light, it will start chalking. So keep it shaded once its epoxied.

Another thing to note, is that the paint brand doesn't matter as much as you'd think. More importantly is the prep work on bare metal, and subsequent treatment of paint.
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Mulcheese
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lightice wrote:
.

Another thing to note, is that the paint brand doesn't matter as much as you'd think. More importantly is the prep work on bare metal, and subsequent treatment of paint.


Great. With a decent brand in mind what is a cost estimate I am looking at? My biggest issue is that I have no idea as to how much primer and paint to buy.

Im trying to determine if I will be saving a little or a lot spraying this on my own.

Keep in mind that I am going to do a lot of prep myself, I dont trust Maaco for this.
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lightice
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can always ask Maaco the cost of labour and materials if you provide paint.

And you can always ask them how much paint to buy, and what brand they are comfortable using.

Most reputable painters will always allow you the option of using your own paint. The painters I have dealt with locally, allows me to buy my own paint and primer and they'll shoot and prep.
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andk5591
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Most reputable painters will always allow you the option of using your own paint. The painters I have dealt with locally, allows me to buy my own paint and primer and they'll shoot and prep.


Really? Most of the shops around here would only consider doing this if you sign a waiver.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 5:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could buy a gallon each of primer,paint & clear for $400 and paint it yourself. The clear will protect your paint from rock chips etc & you can spot repair it yourself. It's much easier to blend in clear, than single stage paint. Best to buy from a local Auto Paint Supplier, if/when you need more!
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lightice
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

andk5591 wrote:
Quote:
Most reputable painters will always allow you the option of using your own paint. The painters I have dealt with locally, allows me to buy my own paint and primer and they'll shoot and prep.


Really? Most of the shops around here would only consider doing this if you sign a waiver.


It is best to ask them what brand they are comfortable shooting as some systems may have different nuances, but here I am allowed to purchase my own paint.
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Mulcheese
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 6:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
You could buy a gallon each of primer,paint & clear for $400 and paint it yourself. The clear will protect your paint from rock chips etc & you can spot repair it yourself. It's much easier to blend in clear, than single stage paint. Best to buy from a local Auto Paint Supplier, if/when you need more!


I never considered maintenance down the road. Maybe this is the route I should go? What primer to use?

What is the typical life of a job of this sort?
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lightice
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I live in tropical weather, rainfall 1/2 of the year.

Many use marine epoxy for the chassis and floorboards with lasting minimal if any rust results.
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eyetzr Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

like Mike Fisher said times 2. I would add epoxy prime & then filler primer. The best result will be with a good quality base. If the paint gets scratched a quality base will save the rusties from showing up. Up here most shops will paint your car with the paint they use. $800.00 to paint, rattle can prime (really?) I would ask the painter if he would like to make a little on the side & have him spray it.
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Mulcheese
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

eyetzr wrote:
. $800.00 to paint, rattle can prime (really?)


Only time rattle can is mentioned is if I have them paint. I will be doing repair with filler on various spots. This may take somee time to get to and I will need to protect them from the elements, van stored outside, so until it goes off to the shop to be srayed I would hit those spots to protect them. Is this not a good idea???

Also, no one has address the question " is $800 from Maaco a good price for what they will do (sand, sealer, 1stage urethane)??

Should I stay away and do it myself???
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 3:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've used a lot of red-oxide rattle can primer while doing bodywork as it really makes your flaws stand out.
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