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CREATURE58 Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2008 Posts: 494 Location: San Diego, Ca
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 10:29 pm Post subject: I need advice on a possible 2332 buy... |
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Here's the info, is it a reasonable price?...
NEW" 2332 d/p motor that is not rebuilt, NEW "Car Craft" Aluminum Case and parts.
new forged light flywheel (8)dowel SPG
It has a new 4340 Steel Forged EMPI crankshaft 84mm.
Scat "H" forged rods. Chevy pin
New pistons 94mm. "B"
Schneider High lift camshaft(280F) w/EMPI lifters w/oil hole
Heads are new EMPI's with big SS valves 40 intakes and 35.5 Exhaust
HD Engle valve springs
SS windage push tubes
new Alt
set up with 8.5 - 1 compression
Full flow
New EMPI 44mm single carb. _________________ 1958 Bug (2180 Dual 48 IDA Webers and a Pro Street Flyer)
1997 Toyota Corolla |
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CREATURE58 Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2008 Posts: 494 Location: San Diego, Ca
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 10:34 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry price is 3300 _________________ 1958 Bug (2180 Dual 48 IDA Webers and a Pro Street Flyer)
1997 Toyota Corolla |
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vince1 Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2003 Posts: 823 Location: Burgundy, France
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CREATURE58 Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2008 Posts: 494 Location: San Diego, Ca
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 11:06 pm Post subject: |
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I will be porting them once I get the engine and replacing the single carb with duals 48 Webers. What do you mean by "have a huge Deck"? _________________ 1958 Bug (2180 Dual 48 IDA Webers and a Pro Street Flyer)
1997 Toyota Corolla |
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HRVW Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2011 Posts: 2531 Location: Rosarito, Mexico
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:13 am Post subject: |
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There will be a difference of opinions so I have mine as a comparison.
The 94's need FUEL with bigger valves and Dual carbs.
40x35.5 are just above stock and NOT big by any means where 42x37 or largere would be my choice along with Dual 48IDA carbs.
This setup they built is workable for a weekend driver.
Inside was done okay but they skimped with the heads/ valves and the single carb.
All knowledged racers know that what helps is in the heads with a three angle job....porting and bench flowed.
Ratios would also help with solid rocker arms.
Just my thoughts.
Push tubes and Alt are not power rated. |
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Dauz Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2010 Posts: 1790
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 9:53 am Post subject: |
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Whatever you buy, just don't let it catch on fire again.
I thought your IDAs were bored out to 51s? I have a set of 48s for sale if you need them. |
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57 Rag Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2006 Posts: 1145 Location: Paradise
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 10:51 am Post subject: |
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I wouldnt buy it for several reasons. Main one is that its wayyyy to cheap for a 2332. I forget the sayin Glenn always posts but its something like..... "You dont always get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get." somthin like that. Another thing its a pure daily driver and not made for much else. "Small" valve heads IMHO, mild cam, single HD springs and single carb, that says it all. Thats just me though, but to be honest if youre posting and asking this, you already know the answer. _________________ 57 Ragtop
84x94 86C
IDAs |
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jfats808 Samba Member
Joined: December 10, 2007 Posts: 5022 Location: oahu hawaii
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 11:37 am Post subject: |
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If your dead set on considering a purchase, negotiate to take a head off one side, a pair of cylinders and pistons, and the oil pump. With the head off, you can measure valves and determine port work. Taking off the p/c's allows you to inspect rods and check at least the opposite side lifters for general condition. Taking off the oil pump, reveals cam id. I would also bring a dial indicator and mag base to check end play. You can bring a putty knife, torque wrench, sealant and blue painters tape to mark pr's. If hes got nothing to hide, he'll agree. If it turns out bunk, it can go back together easily. _________________ 2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD !
2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125
Rockstar Suzuki wrote: |
You might as well put 10 year build in your bullshit sig, as it will NEVER run. Also your a dick |
You can always learn something new, even from a fool.
Check your oil levels routinely! |
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77charger Samba Member
Joined: November 12, 2005 Posts: 1492
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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jfats808 wrote: |
If your dead set on considering a purchase, negotiate to take a head off one side, a pair of cylinders and pistons, and the oil pump. With the head off, you can measure valves and determine port work. Taking off the p/c's allows you to inspect rods and check at least the opposite side lifters for general condition. Taking off the oil pump, reveals cam id. I would also bring a dial indicator and mag base to check end play. You can bring a putty knife, torque wrench, sealant and blue painters tape to mark pr's. If hes got nothing to hide, he'll agree. If it turns out bunk, it can go back together easily. |
If i were to sell my 2275 i would not have a problem tearing mine down to show what it really is either.I have seen many advertised as bigger motors only to turn out to be 1641s.
Of course someone better be serious about buying it and puttin a deposit down first. _________________ Click to view image
Bugpack 4 seater rail
2275 built by me
Auto linea alm case,82 dpr crank wedgemated by DK machine
cb 5.4 h beams,12 pound DPR f/w,Slr xv294cam,cb straight cuts,hpmx 44s,40x35 heads ported by brothers machine |
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jfats808 Samba Member
Joined: December 10, 2007 Posts: 5022 Location: oahu hawaii
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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77charger wrote: |
jfats808 wrote: |
If your dead set on considering a purchase, negotiate to take a head off one side, a pair of cylinders and pistons, and the oil pump. With the head off, you can measure valves and determine port work. Taking off the p/c's allows you to inspect rods and check at least the opposite side lifters for general condition. Taking off the oil pump, reveals cam id. I would also bring a dial indicator and mag base to check end play. You can bring a putty knife, torque wrench, sealant and blue painters tape to mark pr's. If hes got nothing to hide, he'll agree. If it turns out bunk, it can go back together easily. |
If i were to sell my 2275 i would not have a problem tearing mine down to show what it really is either.I have seen many advertised as bigger motors only to turn out to be 1641s.
Of course someone better be serious about buying it and puttin a deposit down first. |
yup. I have been hired and as a friend on other ventures had to do this. Right from the start you can determine from their reaction whether or not the transaction is bunk. But it also implies that your willing to put it back together for them. Deposit from your side shows willingness to complete the deal. Like your 77, I have too many times seen 1600s advertised as strokers as well. Only with the above steps previously mentioned would I remotely consider buying someone else's engine. Most of the time, I can build something better for cheaper anyways. I can essentially eat my own labor for myself.. Nothing is always as it seems. Just this weekend I denied a Craigslist scammer! Fools. _________________ 2276 IDA's 86C 11-1 DD !
2017 48 Trijet DRLA's W125
Rockstar Suzuki wrote: |
You might as well put 10 year build in your bullshit sig, as it will NEVER run. Also your a dick |
You can always learn something new, even from a fool.
Check your oil levels routinely! |
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Dale M. Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2006 Posts: 20379 Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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If you did not build it, I would question everything.... If seller not willing to let it be inspected, walk away....
Dale _________________ “Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
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Glenn Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001 Posts: 76912 Location: Sneaking up behind you
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 7:39 pm Post subject: |
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57 Rag wrote: |
I forget the sayin Glenn always posts but its something like..... "You dont always get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get." somthin like that. |
Close enough.
EMPI this and EMPI that... i'd pass on it.
Ask yourself this... why is he selling a new engine? _________________ Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
#BlueSquare |
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MURZI Samba Member
Joined: August 25, 2005 Posts: 5063 Location: Madisonville, La
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 8:33 pm Post subject: |
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3300 for a new turnkey is a strong lil 1776 ...well built and about 110hp. If 3300 is your budget to buy an engine that is what you should aim for. In the end the nice "1776" built by a pro... could smoke the garden variety 2332. _________________ 62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam |
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Dauz Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2010 Posts: 1790
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slalombuggy Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2010 Posts: 9145 Location: Canada
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Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2014 10:07 pm Post subject: |
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Your 48s will be a waste on this motor. The small cam and heads won't use any of the potential of IDAs even if you port them, the intakes are too small. Nothing wrong with the EMPI internals I've raced on these parts and they are good for a hot street engine. Who's shop is selling the motor?
brad |
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