Choke Adjusted... Now Car Won't Start (Need Help Please!)

[1302Felix]

My '72 with 34 pict Solex was running fine but not idling when immediately started (fine after a minute or so) so I decided to adjust the choke,
I followed the procedure detailed here http://www.vw-resource.com/choke2.html and now the car won't start at all.
At a bit of a loss because I need the car today.
I have had the butterfly at different degrees but it seems to make no difference now. Most I can get out of it is a few sporadic fires but now the battery is dying where I've been trying to start it.
Any help would really be appreciated!
Thanks

[scrivyscriv]

1) Put your battery on a charger, take it to Auto Zone if you have to - get it charged up if it's weak.

2) Check the wire on the left side of the carb, make sure you did not knock it loose off the fuel shutoff solenoid.

3) Check the choke/fuel cutoff wires at terminal 15 on the coil.

Adjusting choke, by itself, should not cause your engine to no-start.
_________________
Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[scrivyscriv]

Rob and Dave's article on choke adjustment is really wordy.. if it worked for you, good, but it sounds to me like you're just second-guessing at how to adjust the choke now that the car won't start.

It's extremely simple.
1) Remove the air cleaner so you can see the choke butterfly in the carb.
2) Loosen up the three screws holding the choke element tight.
3) With your engine stone cold, push the choke butterfly almost totally closed, and hold it closed while you
4) Rotate the choke element until you feel it make contact on the choke butterfly arm.
5) Put it all back together.

That's max rich choke on startup. You might need to adjust it a little leaner, i.e., not closed ALL the way while stone cold, after you do a few cold starts and see how it runs for you.
_________________
Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[ashman40]

I'm thinking your battery may have already been weak. If the voltage at the coil #15 (+) terminal drops below 10v while you crank the engine, the coil will not spark. This may not be apparent if you just test the coil while the ignition is ON since the voltage may be high enough to fire the coil while the engine is not cranking.
_________________
AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[aprophet]

more then a few folks in this area in order to "move " a car will tighten the choke up to where it will not come off even after the car has warmed up. Then when the new owner sets the marks where they are supposed to be the car will not start or start and will not idle just got one in the shop yesterday like this LOL search all the posts here about the 34-3's there is a lot of good info here at samba

[1302Felix]

thanks everyone. Had my dad watching the carb today as I tried to start the car and he noticed all the fuel coming straight out of the side of the carb. Rebuild kit on the way, hopefully this will solve my problem. Just strange that the gasket went at the same time as me adjusting the choke!

[aprophet]

is the fuel coming out at the throttle plate ?

[1302Felix]

assume you mean the 'accelerator pump diaphragm'. Yes it was, all fixed until I had the car running on the driveway and the injector pipe flew out the top of the carb never to be seen again. One job done, five more created.