66 1300 bug with 30 pict-1 - Short powerloss issue

[MadsBL]

Hi,

I have a 66' 1300 6V bug that is all through original. F-engine 1300 SP with a Solex 30 Pict-1 carb.

Since the car have been on the road from May this year, I have noticed a little annoying issue when driving. When I give full throttle, spesially on 3th and 4th gear at a certain RPM around 2000-2500rpm, I notice a half second of powerloss before the car runs fine again. It almost feel like a fuel issue (running out of gas kinda feeling).

When the engine was out of the car this winter, I checked and fixed the following things:
- Replaced spark plugs with Bosch WR8AC Super plus
- Checked the distributor and rotor for any damage/defects
- Checked and fixed the wires to coil + ignition wires
- Fixed the clogged heat riser for intake manifold
- New gasket/seals on carb to manifold, exhaust, manifold etc
- Cleaned the gastank and replaced filter inside the tank
- Replaced all the rubber hoses for fuel and vacum with quality hoses
- Adjusted the valves by the book two times to be sure

The car runs smooth on idle warm as cold, fires up great when cold, not hard to start when warm either, no backfire og strange behave except for the powerloss when hitting the gas at a certain RPM.

As mention, the car/engine is original, with 40,000 miles since new in 66.

[KTPhil]

Sounds like your carb's accel pump is not working properly.

Key off, air cleaner off, choke open... look down the carb throat, open the throttle fully, and see if you get a clean squirtgun-like shot out of the accel pump nozzle, and that it doesn't hit the throttle plate (it should squirt in the gap between the edge of the plate and the carb throat.

If not, you need a carb gasket kit and replacement of the accel pump diaphragm (included in the kit). Also check that the accel pump nozzle hasn't come loose and dropped into the carb!

A couple of tricks some manuals don't tell you:
1) Aim the nozzle by gripping it with pliers the base and loosen it up back and forth, lifting; then locate it firmly and test the squirt, turning it as needed. Then stake it down firmly. I use a pair of pliers with flat tips set on the flange of the nozzle and hit the handles with a small hammer to set it.
2) Fit the accel pump cover screws loose enough for air to escape, but not so loose the rubber can wrinkle. Then open the throttle fully (extending the accel pump in the process), and tighten the screws in that position. This ensures a full stroke and enough slack in the diaphragm to not over-extend it at full pump.
3) Clean and re-use your old float valve; new ones in the kit are usually very poor quality. Use the same thickness gasket or re-set your float level by trial and error.

[VolkswagenVMan]

I would do all that KTPhil told you to do, also what the fuel now having 10% Ethanol in it you may have to put a bigger jet in the carb. Just putting that out there as I had to do that to one of my cars.
_________________
Master Tech at Team Volkswagen
VW's at work , VW's at home!!!!
1967 EMPI GTV
1966 Bug early
1966 Bug late
2000 New Beetle 2.0l 200,000 miles and going!

[drscope]

Before you go rebuilding or swapping parts, you should also be aware that you can get the exact same symptoms if the accelerator pump is squirting TOO much fuel.

What happens is you step on the pedal and the car falls on it's face because there has been a big enough squirt to actually wet the walls of the intake manifold and the cylinders. It takes a few revolutions for that to clear.

If this is the case you can adjust the amount of stroke on the accelerator pump arm to cut down the squirt.
_________________
Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch!

[MadsBL]

Thanks for the tips and suggestions about this issue.

Was out on a trip yesterday, just to test this issue, tested with long climbs and short trips at different speeds, the issue did not appear then

Will check up on the shot from the nozzle in the carb first, and take it from there.