1967 SO-42

[Major Woody]

I echo the comments about the seatcovers being available without heat seams. You do have to ask. I used the TMI covers and have no complaints; as with any upholstering job you do have to work on the little details. Make sure to use a WIRE along the bottom of the cover--remove the nylon cord that comes with the covers.
Don't expect the cover to just slip on. It takes lots of monkeying around to get everything lined up and looking tight and smooth but the result is well worth it.
Encapsulate the coconut fiber pad in thin cloth (like an old sheet) prior to placing it on the springs. Otherwise it will constantly deposit bits of debris on your interior.
Try to find the 67-only tank. They come up for sale here from time to time and aren't as rare as you might think.
Great bus.

[srfndoc]

There are quite a few 67 only tanks for sale right now:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?...as+tank+67
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RPM=(MPH*336* (R&P*4th*1.26))/Tire Diameter in inches

[jeremy57ride]

Not sure how big of deal the "mistake" is... but this is a good deal for material alone

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-WESTFALIA-CURTAINS-1965...424wt_1153
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"If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do." -Warren Miller

[Pinetops]

[Eric&Barb]

Had a 1967 tank years ago that had a rust thru spot in one place. Turned out that place was the only rust in the whole tank about the size of a quarter in the very lowest part of the tank. The inside of the tank otherwise was so clean that the original manufacture of the steel had painted logos and these were still in perfect shape.

Have since taken to cutting down length of the outlet pipe inside the tank. This gets the water out of the very bottom of the tank and into the carb where it is easily gotten rid of by pulling the side drain plug out.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[localboy]

As far as fuel and tanks go here's my input. I've done it twice; one on my Notch and one in the Westy.

My Westy one was an easy fix compared to you and I bought a new one. The old one was totally dry; rusted, varnished etc. Chunks came out of it when I removed it. It was easier and cheaper to purchase a new tank.

My Notch experience is more like what you have to deal with. T3 tanks are NOT re-popped. I had to use the original. I took it to a local radiator shop that also cleaned tanks. They chemically cleaned it and luckily it did not rust through; no pinholes requiring welding. They then coated the interior with a transparent red seal of some kind. Seven yrs and no problems. I fill with 100% dyno gas (not ethanol) whenever possible. But that is getting harder and harder.

You may be able to do the same with your one yr only OG tank. It will required painting when you get it back.
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One man's "patina" is another man's cancer...

Black '65 Resto-Custom S Notch 2110 cc powered
original paint Pearl White '66 Westy SO-42
Allstate single-wheel trailer project

[Major Woody]

Stuco,
I know it seems like a strange priority, but sometimes you have to jump on deals even though that part of the project seems far off. Those curtains may again become impossible to come by. I know some people waited and searched for years. I'd strongly suggest you snap them up and stash them for later.

[OG67westy]

the red stuff referenced above is probably "redcoat", I used it on my Thing tank, after cleaning it myself with good results, so far...
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'67 Westy pearl white "Greta"
'67 Westy velvet green "Ken's bus"
'74 Thing blizzard white "Schatze"
'61 Panel dove blue"Rche"
'65 Bug rusty"Tina"
'83 Porsche 944

[notchboy]

Do we know what the tank even looks like? As for the curtains........og or whatever the miss likes pattern wise????
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[Pinetops]

^I'm listening guys, the input is appreciated.

Thought I'd do a quick update. I'm waiting for some parts in the mail to attempt to crank the engine. Meanwhile I've started to clean up the engine bay.

Before:

During:

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"A rolling bus gathers no rust."

[Eric&Barb]

Looks good! Slap some good quality wax on that air cleaner to help protect the OG paint.

Need to install two hose clamps on each end of both of the fresh air tubes running from the shroud to the heat exchangers, to keep the hoses from popping off and over heating the engine.

Also need the rubber boots on the bottom ends of those fresh air tubes to seal out the hot air under the engine.

Any hole in the shroud needs to be plugged with whatever part goes into there. Like the spark plug wire clips. Holes let out the cooling air that is to cool down the engine.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[crofty]

[Pinetops]

[crofty]

[BlastMasterMannyFresh]

Thanks to you guys here I ordered a set of curtains too. I don't need them for months either. But i couldn't pass on them at that price either.

[Pinetops]

Does the fact that my distributor is a vacuum advance type mean it is not original? How can I tell what model it is specifically? Does it use a different type of points, condenser, cap and/or rotor?

My Engine is an "HO" btw, original to the vehicle as far as I can tell.
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"A rolling bus gathers no rust."

[Eric&Barb]

Should be a stamped ID number on the side of the distributor just below the cap. Earlier distributors have a plate with the number on it in same area.

This website is a wealth of info. Check out the "Ignition Distributor List - By Bosch Number" for much more about distributors.

http://oldvolkshome.com/
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[Pinetops]

^Thanks!

Here's a quick video of the engine sort of running. It ran another time twice as long as this at least. It will run when fuel is poured into carb. The fuel pump is definitely putting out some pressure because I pulled the fuel line and tested it. Although, I'm not sure if its pumping as much as it needs to.

A few brief moments of glory:

http://vid46.photobucket.com/albums/f107/PatGlove/0826141805a_zps0cb835e2.mp4
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"A rolling bus gathers no rust."

[Pinetops]

I'm preparing to pull the engine and deal with the gas tank. I will be placing an order for parts and don't want to forget anything. I've already changed the oil, put in a new battery, put on good plug wires, cleaned the spark plugs, cleaned the oil bath air filter and a few other things. I will take the opportunity to clean and detail the engine and compartment. Here are the things I'm planning on doing while it's out, am I missing anything?

-Replace all fuel lines, gaskets, seals, etc that have to do with fuel tank, as well as the sending unit.

-Clean carb and replace gaskets, replace fuel pump gaskets. Secure carb fuel inlet (it popped out on me! Better now than while driving though!)

-Replace engine to body seal, valve cover gaskets, fuel lines, fuel filter, all hoses, belt, engine oil strainer, put proper boots and clamps on everything.

-Buy spare points, condenser, rotor, dist. cap and install new spark plugs.

-Adjust valves and timing
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"A rolling bus gathers no rust."

[ToolBox]