potential new bug owner seeking advice

[sircamsalot]

First of all hello to everyone. Now the questions, I am currently looking at a 74 super beetle. The interior has been replaced, seats, door panels, carpet etc. The engine and trans have been redone within the last year.it has a 1600 engine with a single carb. My question is what should I be looking for as I will be doing a final inspection this Saturday with the intentions of purchasing it. Body is primered black, stock wheels appear to be newer,shiny and clean etc. I have not driven it yet but this will happen on Saturday. I have wanted one since I graduated high school and don't want to miss this opportunity, but also don't want to get hosed. Have had many cars in my lifetime, mustangs, camaros, single cab short bed trucks,(currently have a 2004 Chevy rcsb with ls3 fully bolt ons and nitrous). I can remember a buddy I used to work with having a 69 bug and it was so beautiful, gloss black, lowered, wide tires and a very strong 2500 dual carb with heads,cams,exhaust etc coupled to a freeway flyer 5spd transmission. It was very fast and surprised a lot of guys in our shop.so this is my ultimate goal. I want to buy this bug and go rat rod with attitude. I have so many questions and lots to learn.I need any help, guidance, or advice to point me in the right direction. All responses are welcome and appreciated.

[TheAmazingDave]

It sounds like you're pretty mechanically inclined. If so, there's not much to go wrong with a Bug that you can't fix with a little bit of time and patience.

Rust is going to be the biggest factor. You'll want to check over the body to make sure it's not swiss cheese under the primer. Check out the floor pans from underneath for holes or rust bubbles. It should be reasonably flat, as well. Pop the rear seat up and check for rust around the battery. Heater channels are prone to rust on Bugs, as well as the areas under the moon vents behind the side back windows. There's a foam sealant there that can accumulate moisture and rust out the body over time. The rear parcel shelf is susceptible as well if the car ever had a bad rear window seal, although this will be harder to detect if the car is fully upholstered.

Super Beetles also like to have front end shimmy problems. Any number of combinations of worn parts can cause it. If it shimmies on your test drive, it will likely need a full front end overhaul. Drive it at low and high speeds, as it can happen just cruising down the street or down the freeway. S.B.s don't discriminate, they'll shake you up at any speed, but they tend to do it in a speed range of their own preference. Mine liked 35-45 MPH. It took new struts and urethane bushings to smooth it out. Check for excessive play in the steering box, but a 74 might have rack and pinion, I'm not certain.

Make sure the wiring hasn't been hacked up too badly either, while easy to fix, it may pose an unnecessary headache.

I'm sure others will chime in with key things to check.

[Tim Donahoe]

Rack and pinion started in 1975.

Check out everything--horn, lights, turn signals, brakes, wiper motor--both speeds, shifting (reverse, too).

Look under the car for oil leaks and torn CV boots. Look for rust--the great bug killer! If just surface rust only, don't sweat it. Look for signs of damage or bondo, too. Pull the back seat and look where the battery is. Has the pan that holds the battery been repaired properly? Look under where the battery sits to confirm.

Look behind the cresent vents at the rear side windows for paint bubbling (signs of death foam and much body work). A little bubbling means a lot of interior rust damage, because it rusts from the inside out.

Take it out on the freeway and get the motor up to operating temperature. Go at least 55 mph and check for shimmy and shake at the steering wheel (if there, it may start to shimmy at 45 mph). Don't tailgate (bug brakes are not what you're used to, believe me). Slow downusing the brakes to check them and to get aquainted with them.

Take the car back to the seller's house and shut off the engine. Check the dipstick with your hand for heat. You should be able to pass the dipstick from hand to hand without burning. Smell the motor--does it smell uncomfortably hot, or of hot oil? Look under the engine now and check for dripping oil.

Wipe off hands and re-start the motor within ten minutes of getting it hot. If very hard to start when warm, the carb or timing may be off--or the carb needs refurbishing.

Don't get too excited. There are plenty of bugs out there.

Tim

[sircamsalot]

Thanks for the info, the seller lives about 35 miles from me and is going to drive the bug closer to me or even here for me to look over. I know this is going to sound, silly but when did they start coming with air conditioning, and or was it just an add on. I have seen pics of the engine and it has an extra pulley off the side, would this. Be the compressor? What about door pins, or the front spare tire/gas tank area. I have already started the research for disc brake conversion kits both front and back, front end rebuild kits, drop spindles, shocks, wider rims and tires for the rear. What is the widest tire size in 15 inch that will fit the rear, will a 205/60R15 fit? And can I go wider. Eventually if all goes well will start with the suspension system and brakes and clear a space for a new engine kit.

[60ragtop]

Don't get into fantasizing fixing it up till you see it.
sounds like you are putting the cart before the horse and it might be the biggest POS out there.
just my 2 cents
air conditioning was an add on from way back
_________________
Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986

[Tim Donahoe]

Why is the driver bringing the car to you? 35 miles is not far.

If he drives it to you, you won't be able to start the car when it's dead cold. You should do that. then re-start it when it's warm. Actually, have the seller start the car both times. Check to see how he starts it. Does he pump the gas pedal a lot? He should only do it once.

If there's air-conditioning, make sure it works.

Do not let the bug bite cloud your judgement.

Tim

[sircamsalot]

Agreed on the horse before the cart,as I have fallen victim to this before on a 90 mustang GT. Has some minor front frame issues that were not noticed initially. So I am doing as much research as possible. Today didn't work out as we both ended up having other things to attend to. So we are on for Monday. The term for what I want to do as I have learned in the last few days is called volksrod. I understand that this is usually done with standards since the process is easier,but the it looks much better with the supers wider front hood. I have my mind made up on this project but will go through everything on this one before I truly commit to buying it. Will look for the death foam, pans, wiring, clutch op, brakes etc.since he has already done the interior,that's one less thing to do,but I still intend to pull up the new carpet and take a peek under it. He is asking for 3400, but have no idea if this is a fair price. Let's say all is as it seems and there are no major issues. What would be a fair counter offer. And if purchased where do I find parts for my volksrod build?

[AZbug1979]

I bought my bug for 2300 I got excited didn't look around to much and if I did I could have saved more money. I love my bug but I wish I did more research and found a pre 71 cause it has the steering wheel I like and the low cut front seats. The bug I bought a 75 Fi converted to carb ran good for a year then it started having problems burning oil and leaking. So I intended to just replace the jugs and pistons a top end job. But the main bearing ended up having way to much play , and it had the largest bearing out there so needles to say its junk and I had to buy a used motor. Why do you want a super? You should check the compression too before buying because what sucks is my old case was junk I wish I could have just bought a used stock motor to put in and build my 2500 big motor while it ran now I have to buy a case too. Good luck they are fun and I have learned a lot by replacing the motor etc
Here is mine post a pic of the one your looking at.

[Joel]

The original a/c systems werent even good when new let alone years later, if you want it you are better off with a car that didnt have it and fit one if the new modern kits.

the old kits in later supers required a lot of holes cut in the car.

Dropped spindles dont exist for supers, lowering the front us done with adjustable struts.
_________________
Quick little bug, you got a Porsche motor in that?
1974 Germanlook 1303 2.5 Suba-Beetle

[sircamsalot]

Here's a few of what he sent me. I'm not in a hurry to jump on the first one I find.

[/img]

[Q-Dog]

If the engine and tranny work matches the quality of the interior, then this car is overpriced.

Also, In one of your posts you mention "Volks Rod" and if that is what you truly want to do, you need a Standard Beetle and not a Super Beetle.
_________________
Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[sircamsalot]

This is what I am going for. The laws here in Texas are somewhat sketchy as far as fenders are concerned.

[sircamsalot]

Now as far as lowering I have found a disc brake kit that includes 2 1/2 drop spindles. Will give it a bit of a rake. Now what bout engine mods, like crbs,cams,exhaust,etc.

[Q-Dog]

OK, pay attention because it has been mentioned before in this thread. Dropped spindles do not exist for Super Beetles.
_________________
Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[sircamsalot]

Aircooled.net ha two different sets of lowering struts for the super beetle,from 1.6 to 2.5. On another site I found the disc brake kit with 2.5 drop spindles for the 74 to 79 super beetle.

[Mikedrevguy]