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Battery relocate in the nose?
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d5626
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2014 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've tried smaller and smaller batteries and am now running a PC680 Odyssey battery under the back seat with a high torque starter and even when doing a lot of cranking when getting fuel injection set up, battery did very well. This is on a 2 litre/turbo. Probably cause HT starter doesn't need as much amperage. It's spec'd for a motorcycle hence the size and weighs in at about 15lbs. Another plus is that laid on its side it's only about 3" high and I was able to use the same mount from the bigger batteries.
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carl4x4
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I run the odyssey pc925, like the previous post says the Odyssey batteries are impressive, I too spent ages cranking the starter when we were getting the car first going. It also weighs about half what a normal battery does.
Working on the engine is much easier without the battery in the engine bay, the Ghiagirl site is very informative but I'm not sure I agree with the bit where they filled part of the spare wheel well with builders foam!
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DorianL
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

carl4x4 wrote:
I run the odyssey pc925, like the previous post says the Odyssey batteries are impressive, I too spent ages cranking the starter when we were getting the car first going. It also weighs about half what a normal battery does.
Working on the engine is much easier without the battery in the engine bay, the Ghiagirl site is very informative but I'm not sure I agree with the bit where they filled part of the spare wheel well with builders foam!


They did whot?
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dcat917
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ran my first Ghia with about 40 pounds in the nose and it handle much better than stock. Ghia's are tail heavy, Put the battery in the nose and wire it up.
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VWCOOL
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you will achieve even better handling with the battery close to the car's CoG and then 'tuning' the chassis with tyre pressures.

That way, there is less weight swinging around up front to slow down responses. Polar moment of inertia etc etc
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kiwighia68
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 1:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

carl4x4 wrote:
I run the odyssey pc925, like the previous post says the Odyssey batteries are impressive, I too spent ages cranking the starter when we were getting the car first going. It also weighs about half what a normal battery does...


I'm going the same route - Odyssey battery under the seat on the passenger side. I'm planning to route the red starter wire from the ignition (from where it exits the main wiring loom) under the back seat across to the right side and through the firewall to the starter motor, and the heavy duty wire from the battery also across to the right and through the firewall.

My car is RHD as I think yours is.

Is that what you did? Or is there a better way? I'd appreciate your advice, please.
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CiderGuy
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 1:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where are you running the battery cables from the nose to the starter?
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kiwighia68
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CiderGuy wrote:
Where are you running the battery cables from the nose to the starter?


The red cable runs from the starter switch on the steering column down the main loom to the back of the car along the left of the car. It exits the main loom next to the left side of the back seat. From there it could go either under the seat to the starter motor or over the rear wheel arch into the engine compartment and then along the firewall to the starter motor.

The starter motor is also connected to the battery by a heavy duty cable within the engine compartment.

If I'm going to have the battery under the seat on the left of the car, both those wires could go under the back seat to the right side of the car and then through the firewall to the starter.

At least, that's what I think Carl will be able to advise me on.
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danielsan
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The point about the weight distribution is a good one but also think about safety. Most ghias get crunched in the nose at some point and if the battery is behind that nose that could mean lots of sparks right in front of the gas tank. This mod could turn a fender bender into a serious accident.
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carl4x4
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kiwighia68 wrote:
CiderGuy wrote:
Where are you running the battery cables from the nose to the starter?


The red cable runs from the starter switch on the steering column down the main loom to the back of the car along the left of the car. It exits the main loom next to the left side of the back seat. From there it could go either under the seat to the starter motor or over the rear wheel arch into the engine compartment and then along the firewall to the starter motor.

The starter motor is also connected to the battery by a heavy duty cable within the engine compartment.

If I'm going to have the battery under the seat on the left of the car, both those wires could go under the back seat to the right side of the car and then through the firewall to the starter.

At least, that's what I think Carl will be able to advise me on.


If you look at the picture below, ignoring the battery cut-off switch to the left, the main red wire goes through a new hole under the rear luggage shelf, across the underside (using p-clips and rivnuts) over to the starter. This run is actually slightly shorter than the factory route for cars that have batteries in the engine bay on the left.
Following this route is the red wire coming directly from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid that actuates it. (the thinner wire)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Ignore the fact the thick wire is now mysteriously turned to black in this photo, it's an old photo before I replaced it with a shiny new red wire!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This gives you two choices on what to do with the main battery feed you need to put a new main battery feed into the loom to replace the old one that would have joined at the old regulator. Either splice into the main front-back loom like I did (picture above) or run a wire all the way up to the alternator from the starter post.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Last edited by carl4x4 on Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:16 am; edited 5 times in total
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cracker666
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Danielsan
So if you dont die from a non colapsing steering column inpaling your chest with the steering wheel.
head injury from either hitting the dash or steering wheel.
Burning to death from fuel stored in an aging fuel tank located in front of the driver splitting chucking fuel everywhere near the fuse box.

I think Personaly its better under the lh seat near the starter.
sod weight distribution these dont go that fast to make a massive difference.
unless it has a 996 or scubie power plant


Last edited by cracker666 on Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:07 am; edited 1 time in total
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cracker666
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the way I'll be going but lhs, looks neater.
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kiwighia68
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

carl4x4 wrote:
kiwighia68 wrote:
... At least, that's what I think Carl will be able to advise me on.


If you look at the picture below, ignoring the battery cut-off switch to the left, the main red wire goes through a new hole under the rear luggage shelf, across the underside (using p-clips and rivnuts) over to the starter. This run is actually slightly shorter than the factory route for cars that have batteries in the engine bay on the left.
Following this route is the red wire coming directly from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid that actuates it. (the thinner wire)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Ignore the fact the thick wire is now mysteriously turned to black in this photo, it's an old photo before I replaced it with a shiny new red wire!

This gives you two choices on what to do with the main battery feed you need to put a new main battery feed into the loom to replace the old one that would have joined at the old regulator. Either splice into the main front-back loom like I did (picture above) or run a wire all the way up to the alternator from the starter post.


Thanks Carl, for the help and for the clarity of your post. I'm going to copy your system, including the battery you have.

Chris M
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Car32
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 01, 2021 1:37 pm    Post subject: Re: Battery relocate in the nose? Reply with quote

When I used to drive a Volvo 740 wagon, there was a mod performance-minded people did where you'd pull a couple of 7-pound weights out of the front frame horns to improve weight distribution. I did the mod and felt the difference on a 2900-pound car.

Link: https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=204784

I'll be moving the battery from the engine-compartment of my Ghia to the nose.
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kingkarmann
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 03, 2021 7:35 am    Post subject: Re: Battery relocate in the nose? Reply with quote

Old thread but I opted for the battery under the seat.
As far as weight in the front I just make sure to keep a full tank.
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