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2127 engine starts too stumble at about 5000 rpms
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modok
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, had to ask.

probably a carb or ignition problem.
"pop/cut out" I would think one or more cylinders going lean or an ignition miss.

Pull the jet stacks and have a look to see if there is a plugged main jet, if seems ok .....re-gap the plugs to .025", if this improves matters you have a weak ignition.
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SpeedySpears
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so i went to autozone and got a multi level meter and i put it on twelve volt setting and with the car running (idle 1100 rpms) and i touched the positive to positive and negative to negative with the multi level meter to the coil and it was reading about 4.8-5.0 volts at idle then when my brother would rev the car the volts would go down the more he would rev it and with the car off it woud be putting out about 12.7 volts so when we hit 5000 rpms is there like no spark? As for the spark plugs i got brand new dp6ea9 plugs and put them in there and there gapped at 30 tomarrow ill gap them at 24 and see how it runs i would re gap them tonight but the neighbors call the cops litterly every night we start it so the cops said we can have it running after 10 pm and till 7 in the morning lol so ill gap the plugs tomarrow and get back to you
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SpeedySpears
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

how would i know if the coils bad?
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Visual inspection: turn ingnition on and turn crank pulley nut and take note of intensity of spark when it jumps across the points. Blue or white is good. Orange is not.

To check coil: measure across neg and pos terminals. As far as I remember its supposed to be 3 ohms or less.
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SpeedySpears
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

since the coil is grounded to the fan shroud i noticed that the fan shroud isnt sitting propperly on the engine its like crokked and sitting really high could this cause a bad ground connection??
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
since the coil is grounded to the fan


positive lead comes from keyed ignition, negative terminal you connect distributor ( green), and or tach lead. Thats it.

I notice you seem to like using EA9 extended electrode plugs. Before I switched to normal D7s I noticed that the EA9s liked a bigger main. The downside to having a bigger main is more fuel usage. Like I recommended earlier to you, i SUGGEST strongly that you switch to a D6 or D7 and this is dependant on your CR. Unless your running crazy CR and or turbo, this will work . I use D7s on a 11 to 1 CRed engine.
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modok
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SpeedySpears wrote:
since the coil is grounded to the fan shroud i noticed that the fan shroud isnt sitting propperly on the engine its like crokked and sitting really high could this cause a bad ground connection??


The coil does not ground through the outside. It can be hanging by the wires and still work. I Know that is weird but most are like that.
The +, -, and high tension (spark wire) are the only three connections on it.
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57 Rag
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought u said it was a brand new coil? The spark tester I use is called an inline spark tester that u put between the coil wire and dizzy. It's a visual one. The coil wire attaches to one side of it and the other side attaches to dizzy. You can see the spark itself while engine is running that way you can observe spark at high rpms which where u initially said your problem was.
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SpeedySpears
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have a brand new blue bosch coil but when we put it on the car actually ran worse so we put the old one back on.Did u get ur spark tester at napa
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

im going to run to harbor freight and get it their
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i just got done testing the coil to the distributor and all the spark plugs and everythings got spark and the spark dosnt cut out when i rev it either but i through the blue bosch coil on their for shits and giggles and it runs better but not great so it could be a fuel problem at this point but im not sure
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well i just got done testing the coil to the distributor and all the spark plugs and everythings got spark and the spark dosnt cut out when i rev it either but i through the blue bosch coil on their for shits and giggles and it runs better but not great so it could be a fuel problem at this point but im not sure
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so i gapped the spark plugs at 25 and it seemms to run a wee bit better but not much so does this mean a week ignition system like modok said and when u mean turn the pulley do i take like a wrench to it or turn the car over with the key
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had very similar problems with a 2276 that I had. Tried several distributors with no luck as well as plugs etc. Bought a new CB Magna spark kit with everything and ran like a dream.
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modok
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a ignition miss it tends to either miss or not miss, you know, on or off, no inbetween.

If you didn't see a MARKED improvement then I'd say a weak ignition is ruled out.

But then again points do tend to float over 6k rpms. Most distributors will do it but there is no guarantee, they aren't meant to. Everybody runs those compufire thingies these days, not you eh?

Next is time to play with main jet size I'd say.

Brand new stuff does work a little different after a few hundred miles. Engines like to be richer at first and like more timing at first, exhaust systems become "smaller" with time too.

It's so new you'll just have to play with it and find out what it likes and what's going on. Too many unknowns to say what is a problem and what isn't.
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57 Rag
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point Glen. I got 600 on this one and im still adjusting crap and re-syncing carbs after every cruise. But Speedy.... one last thing you should check if you havent already. Hows your gas filters and when was the last time you purged your fuel lines?

Few years back (about when ethanol started coming out) i kept having to pull my jets and would notice the mains kept getting plugged with micro particles and would pop and sputter. Changed fuel filters (one under tank and one about trans) and filter in tank... No luck. Soooo I pulled off the front line under tank and rear line and hand my son hold a bucket in the back to catch the fuel while I blew the line out with my air compressor. When I was done, the entire bottom of the bucket was covered with what looked like liquefied sand. Since then..... no problems.

Just somethin else for you to do and eliminate Wink .
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SpeedySpears
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

we just have the stok ignition. 3 days ago i took out the tank and drauned all the gas to check the fuel filter in the tank and there is no filter soooooooo....... could that affect anything and how do i blow out the fuel lines? Do i unhook the one that goes to the fuel filter and unhook the one at the tank and blow from the tank line and have a buckket at the end of the car with the fuel line in it? I just dont know what could have happended because the first night after we got down braking in the cam it ran like a dream then the next day i started it sounded and ran like crap. I didnt change a thing that night either........ Thanks for alll the help guys i really appriciate it Very Happy
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Were did you get your 010 from, you said "new" so wonder if you got a clone is all, wonder, why, well, they have not been made for years.

Thing is an 010 is a nice distributor for over 2000cc's for like 2110 and all..

I run one on my Street Rail with a 2110 and runs like a Banchee, that is for sure.... So, make sure if you have one it says Bosch on it, plus make sure all the movement is like a Timex Watch, should be all nice and free...

As for timing, run it in a safe margin, like 30 Degrees out at 3,000 RPMs, plus you mentioned a clear something, better not be a clear distributor cap, if so, could be right there were all your hang up is.....

But yea, go over your notation on Bosch Blue Coils, Glenn-Ring.com has a site on it and shows which are clones and not, yep, Bosch Clone Blue Coils are out there as well...

But on the Coil testing, look it up in the threads, I was at one last week double checking my coil through testing ohms, very easy but forget the numbers, why the forums are a great resource to perseve, the notations are there and how to with a basic Radio Shack $29 meter......

Do your valves and be content, make sure your timing is rock solid, and yea, 009's work, but a real 010 has a better Timing Curve to it for big motor for it jumps right into the timing curve and uses the "big motor" low end better.....

Carbs, well, you got junk, people are having both good luck with them and bad, so, I say you are in the bad now unless you get them sorted why, were they clean when you installed? See, carb companies can skemp on cleaning them well after manufacturing them, and those have had there memo's on them going both ways.... So, you may have an orphis doing something...

As for gas tank, hell, run some clear NAPA Gold gas filters up by the tank and all and see what is coming out, clear plastic makes for seeing what is going on and through your carbs comes to light, so you may be fine, you may not, personally I run two filters on my set up, been since like 86 when I got into this bug buinesss,lol....

But yea, check carbs and have you done jetting yet, or just thinking the more you run it the more the jetting will just fall into place, not so, that is for sure... Yea, running it with out a load is way differnt than with a load, that iis why when cam " break in" you never hear people have problems, no load on the engine.....

Ok, do those simple few things and follow what they said on plugs, hell, you know whats up there, plugs are plugs, personally I stick with something that known to work like what Glenn-Ring.com runs, why, they work and there is no hocus-pocus to them.....

So, hope it goes well, not to bite your head off, but stop and think were you are, everytime I see a new sentence, you are off to the store,lol....

Hope it works out, I am doing a 2180 currently, not building but doing top end tricks mentally so getting my game on, yep, a DRLA so I have ports that I hope to try and run a Bosch SVDA on, and like you, with an Engle 120 cam with 1.1 to 1 ratio rockers, basic street motor is all....

Have a good day, do the back ground checks on your ignition thourouly so you know were your at, ohms are your friend...

And by the way, 7,000 RPMS is an ass load of something for the street, not sure what, but man, you plan on valve jobs every 5,000 miles??? lol Smile RB
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57 Rag
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SpeedySpears wrote:
we just have the stok ignition. 3 days ago i took out the tank and drauned all the gas to check the fuel filter in the tank and there is no filter soooooooo....... could that affect anything and how do i blow out the fuel lines? Do i unhook the one that goes to the fuel filter and unhook the one at the tank and blow from the tank line and have a buckket at the end of the car with the fuel line in it? I just dont know what could have happended because the first night after we got down braking in the cam it ran like a dream then the next day i started it sounded and ran like crap. I didnt change a thing that night either........ Thanks for alll the help guys i really appriciate it Very Happy


Yeah, you should have the screen filter in there. How did the inside of the tank look? Was it rusty?? Was any crap in the gas when you drained it? I hope you caught it in a pan or something and looked. YES it can have an affect, those particles clog jets remember. But from the looks of your next question, at least you have a filter. Yes what you wanna do is just blow out the hard line thats in the tunnel. Thats the lowest part of the fuel system and thats where all the gunk will sit. Did you pull the jets? Hold it to some light and see if any are clogged. All that 7k pounding mighta stirred some stuff up. Wink Just for the record I still think its an ignition problem. Laughing I also run an 010 but with a Pertronix. Its all about the process of elimination.

Oh and do what railboy said..... Wink
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got my 010 distributor from glenn Very Happy And when the problem started we cleaned out the carburetors and right when we started it back up for about 3 min. it ran great. then it started acting up again so could the carbs already be dirty again???? If so what would cause them to get so dirty so quick?? We pulled out the idle jets and they weren't clogged and same for the airs. We have also played around with jetting a little but we tried 60 idles currently (55s) then we tried putting 175 airs currently (200s) The tank looked really clean surprisingly lol.When i get back from Minnesota tonight i think im gunna pull both carbs and give them a good cleanly just to rule that out Laughing Thanks for all the guys i really apriciate it and hope this problem gets solved pretty quick lol
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