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Kick Azz 1975 LaGrande Super Rebuild
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baxsie
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Location: Eastern Washington State
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 10:48 am    Post subject: Stainless Steel Heat Exchanger: Performance and Comfort Reply with quote

Starting way back (see: Getting naked with a heat exchanger), we have been trying to find a way around the heat (OG heat exchanger) or performance (big J tube) trade-off.

I think we have it.

We started with a quality heat exchanger from WolfsBurg West, and the semi-custom stainless steel flanged J tube that was supplied as part of our A1 exhaust.

From experimentation, we knew exactly where we wanted to cut to be able to get the old core out, and the new j-tube in:
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We removed the factory folded seam by using the angle grinder:
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Then peeling away the strip:
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This exposes the core of the reproduction / repop heat exchanger. To their credit, there is the nice aluminum pour around the j-tube, but the finning is much less agressive than the factory, and the exhaust pipe is not convoluted:
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A local sheet metal shop cut us 3/4" wide strips of 14 gauge sttainless sheet, which we then cut down to 3/4" squares using the chop saw:
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Next came the ardous task of attatching the stainless-steel fins to the stainless steel J-Tube. Originally we attempted using the TIG. My TIG welds were horrible. My son made much nicer welds-quite beautiful, in fact, but the TIG welding process was brutally slow. After asking around, we found some 0.030 308 stainless MIG wire and a special gas that allows using the MIG to weld stainless. This made the process go much faster, although the welds are not quite as slick as my son's TIG welds:
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Here is a picture of all the tabs welded on. There is an an equal number on the back side:
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We used the torch and pliers to make the openinf in the skin bigger, and shape it around the J-Tube:
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My son then brazed the skin closed again:
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A quick bead blast:
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We still had some Rust-Seal Motor Coater, so we prepped it with the Rust Blast etch and then shot it:
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Hopefully that will give some decent heat this winter!
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1975 LaGrande Super Beetle Build Log / Farm boy hinge pin puller / Farm Boy Chassis Rotisserie
"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 9:17 pm    Post subject: Engine Assembled with Tin Painted Reply with quote

Got the heat exchangers assembled to the engine, most of the accessories connected:
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Manifolds will have to come out for engine install, so they are still loose.
_________________
1975 LaGrande Super Beetle Build Log / Farm boy hinge pin puller / Farm Boy Chassis Rotisserie
"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."


Last edited by baxsie on Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:05 am; edited 1 time in total
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VWCOOL
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 5:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

frak me, that now-hidden exhaust work is impressive. Two thumbs up, lads
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 7:19 am    Post subject: Paint and Body Work Complete Reply with quote

We had a local shop, City East Auto Body do the remaining collision repair, final body work and paint. The owners lives right up the road from us--we have known them for years.

I could not be more happy with the results. The paint is beautiful, the car is super straight. Here is a quick walk-around:

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Body and paint history: previous body & paint posts:
Engine Tin painted, Body in Primer
Underside of body painted, reassemble body to pan
Collision repair on front of car

Here are some random in-progress pictures, generally in chronological order.

Test fit of hood and doors:
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Wet sanding hood primer:
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Doors & Fenders, still in the booth:
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Body in the booth, before the clear:
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Body out of the booth:
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Hood Front Fenders And Doors On:
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1975 LaGrande Super Beetle Build Log / Farm boy hinge pin puller / Farm Boy Chassis Rotisserie
"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."
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H2OSB
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Being a Super Beetle guy, I must say this is the greatest build thread evah! I really look forward to reading what you've done every time I see an update appear. Strong work gentleman! I also think it's outstanding that you've worked right along with your son!

I've done project cars for years and years, but I feel inspired when I see the superb work you've done particularly when one considers the numerous times you were attempting something for the first time (i.e. TIG...or even welding in general, if I read it all correctly.)

Keep it up. I look forward to your next update.

Mighty impressive!

johnL (aka H2OSB)
www.superbeetlesonly.com
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99XC600
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amazing work. Just subscribed.
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 9:45 pm    Post subject: Upholstery: Door Panels and Rear Seats Reply with quote

VWCOOL, H2OSB & 99XC600: Thanks for the kind words and support. Appreciate it.

A few weeks ago, Mild Too Wild Upholstery completed the back seat and the door panels. We have had the Recaro Speed S seats for some time, but they recently put seat heaters in them. Nothing to see really, just a reference pic for the other photos following:
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The door panels are upholstered in matching black and the micro-suede blue. We need to cut out for the speakers, and the door handle:
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They made an entirely new back seat bottom and back, building and sculpting it from foam to a more modern "bucket" look, The stitching matches the front seats:
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They reused the frame, latch and hinges. The back is an ABS panel. Once we have sorted out the rear speakers, we will decide if there will be a sliding panel for when the seat is down:
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1975 LaGrande Super Beetle Build Log / Farm boy hinge pin puller / Farm Boy Chassis Rotisserie
"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:31 pm    Post subject: Chroming the aluminum "FUEL INJECTION" Deck Badge Reply with quote

We had a local shop (Tripleplate Chrome) polish and chrome the "FUEL INJECTION" deck lid badge:

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Really, the picture does not do it justice, it looks really great.
_________________
1975 LaGrande Super Beetle Build Log / Farm boy hinge pin puller / Farm Boy Chassis Rotisserie
"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."


Last edited by baxsie on Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:39 pm; edited 1 time in total
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:38 pm    Post subject: Vent Wing Divider Bar: Both Stainless & Aluminum kinds? Reply with quote

I am working on the vent wing windows.

I decided to get the aluminum chromed, after having some success chroming the aluminum "FUEL INJECTION" badge.

I grabbed a passenger-side bar, and a driver side bar, and headed down to the chrome shop. The guy there says "oh, stainless". I'm like "whaaaa?"

I have 8 wing windows, 4 passenger, 4 driver.

All four driver's side bars are all aluminum.

Three of the four passenger side bars are stainless, the last one is aluminum.

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The only matching set is aluminum, so I am back to the chrome shop tomorrow to get a matching set of the extruded aluminum bars chromed.

Who would have guessed that there would be such an odd mix?
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1975 LaGrande Super Beetle Build Log / Farm boy hinge pin puller / Farm Boy Chassis Rotisserie
"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent color choice Very Happy
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 7:15 am    Post subject: Re: Installing Megasquirt CHT sensor in factory VW location Reply with quote

baxsie wrote:


Drilling and blind tapping a M6x1 hole into the cylinder head had some pucker factor going on, but as far as I can tell I did not drill into the combustion chamber Smile


No worries there, that boss ends in the rocker box, so even if to had gone all the way through, no harm done (other than aluminum chips in rocker area)
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VADave
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 5:35 am    Post subject: Re: Vintage Hurst Shifter Repair Reply with quote

We cleaned and polished the shaft where the trigger slides:
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What is the "trick" to getting the slide off this shifter? I have one that I want to take apart, but I don't want to damage it by doing something silly!
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1974 Standard - Jennie's Bug "Hanz"
Instagram HanzOnRoute66

2015 Harley Street Glide - David's ride "Franz"
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 7:27 am    Post subject: Re: Vintage Hurst Shifter Repair Reply with quote

VADave wrote:
What is the "trick" to getting the slide off this shifter? I have one that I want to take apart, but I don't want to damage it by doing something silly!


I think it is only held on by the wire inside. The wire appears to be hard, like piano / music wire. I think you can just disconnect the wire at the bottom end and it will come out the top (?memory?).
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1975 LaGrande Super Beetle Build Log / Farm boy hinge pin puller / Farm Boy Chassis Rotisserie
"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."
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VADave
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 11:05 am    Post subject: Re: Vintage Hurst Shifter Repair Reply with quote

baxsie wrote:
VADave wrote:
What is the "trick" to getting the slide off this shifter? I have one that I want to take apart, but I don't want to damage it by doing something silly!


I think it is only held on by the wire inside. The wire appears to be hard, like piano / music wire. I think you can just disconnect the wire at the bottom end and it will come out the top (?memory?).


Thanks
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1974 Standard - Jennie's Bug "Hanz"
Instagram HanzOnRoute66

2015 Harley Street Glide - David's ride "Franz"
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 5:45 pm    Post subject: Door Assembly: Dynapad,rattletrap,power locks,puddle lights Reply with quote

We have been working on the doors. We used DynaPad for thermal and acoustic insulation above and below the beam, where we were pretty sure it would not interfere with the window. DynaPad is a vinyl mass loaded acoustic barrier foam, basically 1/4 inch foam, heavy vinyl, then another 1/4 inch foam. The DynaPad is installed with 3M 90 adhesive. Lower on the door we use RattleTrap, which is basically a thick (~0.070) rubber (tar?) pad with pressure sensitive adhesive on one side and foil on the other. And we used some chrome inner door handles, because they rock:
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We installed the power lock actuators directly to the door, using 5mm screws, locknuts and a spacer to back it away from the flange:
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To make the most of the power lock actuator's travel, we extended the lock arm a bit. This will give the actuator more authority over the lock mechanism. The upper (smaller) rod is a Z-bend in 3/32" stainless welding rod. The lower (larger) rod is 1/8" stainless welding rod, with a J bend at the actuator. The clamp is part of the lock kit.
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Never one to pass by an opportunity for cheesy bling, we installed some "Ghost Shadow VW Logo Projector Lights". Keep in mind that the picture is taken in HDR mode in low light, so it is very flattering, but in anything but bright lighting, these look hella cool:
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The projector lights are surprisingly complicated inside. Well, if they fail it just means there is another drain in the door, right?
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In the "Any progress is some progress department", we installed the number plates. I have no idea what is encoded on the small one, but we got the paint off it, brushed it, hit it with some clear and riveted it on with some stainless rivets:
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Hopefully the wing window bars will be done soon at the chrome shop, so we can complete the remainder of the door project.
_________________
1975 LaGrande Super Beetle Build Log / Farm boy hinge pin puller / Farm Boy Chassis Rotisserie
"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."


Last edited by baxsie on Fri Sep 26, 2014 10:23 am; edited 1 time in total
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Maddel
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 2:03 am    Post subject: Re: Door Assembly: Dynapad,rattletrap,power locks,puddle lig Reply with quote

baxsie wrote:

In the "Any progress is some progress department", we installed the number plates. I have no idea what is encoded on the small one, but we got the paint off it, brushed it, hit it with some clear and riveted it on with some stainless rivets:
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IMHO according to this:

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the "birthday" of your car is day 3 of week 50 in 1974
which is Wednesday 11 DEC 1974.
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:33 pm    Post subject: Front Blinkers: LEDs with Clear Lens Reply with quote

Maddel wrote:
. . . the "birthday" of your car is day 3 of week 50 in 1974
which is Wednesday 11 DEC 1974.

Awesome! Thanks Maddel

We got some good quality LED assemblies from http://www.customdynamics.com I am so sorry for sending you to a site that is a visual assault on the senses, but if you can stand the horrible web design, their LED assemblies ate top notch. I use the "Dynamic Cluster 1.25 inch Amber" and the "Dynamic Cluster 2 inch Amber". In theory you can order them from this page:

http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_led_bulbs.htm

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First off, we made some brackets and spot welded them to the turn signal base:
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A test fit of the cluster from the front:
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and the back:
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We used the sealer to mount the LED pucks to the blinker chassis:
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The clear lens has a really nice "neutral" color when the LEDs are off. It is not a "real" Hella lens, so the fit is not fantastic, but it is OK:
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There is one "half brightness" wire for running lights:
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And the "full brightness" for the blinker. It is pretty hard to stare into the full brightness:
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"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."
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NewTechnicIan
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 8:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haha I like the VW logos, how are they wired? Turn on when the door opens?
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My 73 Standard build - It's painted! It drives under its own power! Time to get it wired and upholstered!

My 1679 Engine build.
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baxsie
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NewTechnicIan wrote:
Haha I like the VW logos, how are they wired? Turn on when the door opens?


They are not wired yet, but yes, they would turn on as the door opens.

I ended up frying one of the power converters, so I ordered these new ones:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBBH3RO/

I am actually glad, because the new version ("5th Gen") lights fix some problems that the original ones had (LED bonded to cap with epoxy, lenses fit tighter, overmold on power supply instead of using a snap together fuse holder case)
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"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."
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talljordan
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The door switches probably cant handle the amperage those lights will demand, so I would recommend wiring them up using a relay, transistor, or MOSFET.
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