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grethi
Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2002
Posts: 536
Location: WA
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 Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 5:49 pm Post subject: Popping and sputtering? |
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My 69 auto square idles just fine currently. However, when I shift it in reverse, it dies. When I have it warmed up, it stalls out at every stop. When I'm coasting, it pops and sputters but keeps going. I'm currently running factory dual Solexes, an original auto t-3 distributor, and a DDB alternator that is worn out, but disconnected from the ignition. The coil gets very hot after the car is warmed up.
Search and asking shops has yielded 3 opinions: timing is off, alternator is burning up the ignition, or the carbs are out of whack. Any confirmations on any of these theories?
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'69 square |
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Donnie strickland
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Joined: December 21, 2009
Posts: 2403
Location: Moody, AL
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 7:38 pm Post subject: Re: Popping and sputtering? |
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| grethi wrote: |
| when I shift it in reverse, it dies. |
Are your reverse lights hooked up to the wrong side of the coil? They should be hooked to the same side as the ignition.
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71 Elm Green FI A/T Squareback |
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Tram
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Joined: May 02, 2003
Posts: 22711
Location: Still Feelin' the Bern- Once you've felt it you can't un- feel it.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 8:53 pm Post subject: Re: Popping and sputtering? |
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| Donnie strickland wrote: |
| grethi wrote: |
| when I shift it in reverse, it dies. |
Are your reverse lights hooked up to the wrong side of the coil? They should be hooked to the same side as the ignition. |
Automatics aren't wired off the coil like that.
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grethi
Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2002
Posts: 536
Location: WA
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| Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 8:58 pm Post subject: |
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The condenser on one side, the other 3 wires on the + side. The coil is brand new, too.
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Donnie strickland
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Joined: December 21, 2009
Posts: 2403
Location: Moody, AL
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| Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 3:17 am Post subject: Re: Popping and sputtering? |
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| Tram wrote: |
| Donnie strickland wrote: |
| grethi wrote: |
| when I shift it in reverse, it dies. |
Are your reverse lights hooked up to the wrong side of the coil? They should be hooked to the same side as the ignition. |
Automatics aren't wired off the coil like that. |
Dang, had a brain fart. And I drive one every day... 
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Slow 1200
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Joined: July 02, 2004
Posts: 2105
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| Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 3:44 am Post subject: |
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| what's your distributor and how are you timing it? |
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grethi
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Joined: August 09, 2002
Posts: 536
Location: WA
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| Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 3:18 pm Post subject: |
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Oem 71 FI automatic distributor. Timed professionally as a solid start point about 10k ago. Timing as needed at 3k tune ups.
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Multi69s
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Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 5363
Location: Lefty, CA
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grethi
Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2002
Posts: 536
Location: WA
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| Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 4:26 pm Post subject: |
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The slee lid is on the power side.
I'd say he coil gets to the 140+ category. Definitely too hot to handle.
When I put the pedal down, there's a severe loss of power, almost feels for a moment like the Trans is low. Then it creeps up and gets to about what I think would be power at half throttle.
Idle RPM is supposed to be 950. Have yet to get a shop that can figure that out, even after I beat them over the head with a Bentley. I'm not really comfortable messing with it right now without someone looking over my shoulder. I don't want to make the problem worse. The fact that I burned up my last dwell/tach doesn't help.
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Multi69s
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Joined: January 24, 2006
Posts: 5363
Location: Lefty, CA
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| Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 7:28 pm Post subject: |
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Since your problem is a whole engine event, and not just a cylinder or two, lets look at items that would effect the whole engine. You don't want to rule anything out, or you might just end up chasing your tail.
Since you are running dual carbs, one dirty carb "shouldn't" make your car run like that. However, if you are not getting enough fuel to the carbs, it could. One thing to check is to insure that you are getting enough fuel. Remove the coil wire from both the coil and the distributer (no Sparks). Disconnect your fuel line where it Ts to the carbs and put into a large container. Then have someone else crank the engine over for about 10 seconds. As you watch the fuel come out, it should squirt out the full diameter of the fuel line in pulses, no dribbling. Fuel may not have anything to do with your problem, but let's rule it out. Besides, this test is free and doesn't take long to do.
Unfortunately, on the electrical side, what you describe can be caused by both the condenser or the coil. Pull the coil wire from the distributor and hold close to a metal portion of the engine. Once again have someone else crank the engine as you watch the spark. You want to look for a nice blue spark (not red), you should also hear it click as it sparks.
If it is red, more then likely it is the coil, especially since you mentioned that it gets hot. The heat and electrical components are not a good mix.
I know that you said that the coil is new, but it could still have failed. Unfortunately we have been conditioned to believe that when something is new, it is automatically good. However, in my years with owning VWs, I have encountered just about every part of the ignition system that was faulty when it was brand new (points, condenser, coils, wires, etc). There is nothing worse then spending hours and $$s trying to solve a problem. only to find out that your new part was faulty when you bought it.
Good Luck
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73 Squareback - 2L, T4, Automatic W/ AC
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Bobnotch
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003
Posts: 22413
Location: Kimball, Mi
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| Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:17 am Post subject: |
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| Multi69s wrote: |
Since your problem is a whole engine event, and not just a cylinder or two, lets look at items that would effect the whole engine. You don't want to rule anything out, or you might just end up chasing your tail.
Since you are running dual carbs, one dirty carb "shouldn't" make your car run like that. However, if you are not getting enough fuel to the carbs, it could. One thing to check is to insure that you are getting enough fuel. Remove the coil wire from both the coil and the distributer (no Sparks). Disconnect your fuel line where it Ts to the carbs and put into a large container. Then have someone else crank the engine over for about 10 seconds. As you watch the fuel come out, it should squirt out the full diameter of the fuel line in pulses, no dribbling. Fuel may not have anything to do with your problem, but let's rule it out. Besides, this test is free and doesn't take long to do.
Unfortunately, on the electrical side, what you describe can be caused by both the condenser or the coil. Pull the coil wire from the distributor and hold close to a metal portion of the engine. Once again have someone else crank the engine as you watch the spark. You want to look for a nice blue spark (not red), you should also hear it click as it sparks.
If it is red, more then likely it is the coil, especially since you mentioned that it gets hot. The heat and electrical components are not a good mix.
I know that you said that the coil is new, but it could still have failed. Unfortunately we have been conditioned to believe that when something is new, it is automatically good. However, in my years with owning VWs, I have encountered just about every part of the ignition system that was faulty when it was brand new (points, condenser, coils, wires, etc). There is nothing worse then spending hours and $$s trying to solve a problem. only to find out that your new part was faulty when you bought it.
Good Luck |
Yup to all the above. Sometimes a little testing will reveal a problem.
Is this a new blue coil? Just asking as they have a pretty good failure rate as of late (they're filled with epoxy, rather than oil). I actually prefer the older black ones, as they seem to live a long life.
I'll second that statement of, "just because it's new, doesn't mean it's good". I've seen enough "new" parts be bad right out of the box. 
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