Author |
Message |
shrinx Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2014 Posts: 22 Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
|
Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 11:44 am Post subject: Ball joint seal replacement |
|
|
I need to replace the seals on the ball joints of my ’66 Beetle. (The ball joints do not need replacing.) Discussions on relevant Samba forum pages and a review of the Bentley repair manual has intimidated me. (Needs for special tools, 4 foot pipes, hydraulic presses and the like).
Is there an easy way to remove the ball joints from the steering knuckles without having to press then out of the torsion arms as well? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
drscope Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 15273 Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
|
Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 11:52 am Post subject: |
|
|
First question is do you have new rubber boots to install?
If yes, then there is no need to press the ball joints out of the arms. Just unbolt the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
You will need to do a wheel alignment when you bolt things back together. _________________ Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
shrinx Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2014 Posts: 22 Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
|
Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 1:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I don't have the seals yet, but they are on my list of parts for my next order. Is it difficult to spread the torsion arms with a pry bar? Looks like I'll have to raise the end of the torsion arm a couple of inches to clear the threads on the top ball joint. And more importantly, is it hazardous? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
drscope Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 15273 Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
|
Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 2:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
It can sometimes be difficult to spread the torsion arms. Sometimes they get stuck real good and don't want to give it up. But if you have a good strong and very long pry bar it shouldn't be a problem.
You may also want to put a pair of these eccentrics on your shopping list. Because they are tapered and go into a tapered hole they can sometimes get stuck real good!
That's NOT a problem if you are just disassembling to replace the rubber boots. BUT these do need to turn in order to set caster and camber.
If they are stuck you should be able to replace your boots and not need a wheel alignment. But if these move or come out, or if you are replacing the entire ball joint, you will have to reset those and new ones usually work a lot better then the old ones. Especially if you wrecked the old ones trying to get them loose. _________________ Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
shrinx Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2014 Posts: 22 Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
|
Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 3:23 pm Post subject: |
|
|
DRSCOPE,
Thanks for the advice and encouragement. You've given me the nerve to plunge in this weekend. Hopefully -- that's a word I seem to use a lot when removing parts from my resto project -- the parts will cooperate. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
drscope Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 15273 Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
|
Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2014 8:55 am Post subject: |
|
|
It might help to have a couple pieces of 2x4 for blocks and a good strong length of pipe to use as a pry bar.
Good luck! _________________ Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
shrinx Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2014 Posts: 22 Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
|
Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 7:19 am Post subject: |
|
|
I've made good progress. The upper ball joint popped right out with just a little pressure. Now I'm faced with trying to remove the eccentrics from the ball joints' shafts. I've soaked with PB and tapped and tapped. So far no movement. The manual (Bentley's) says a special tool is required. Shall I do more soaking and tapping? Use a bigger hammer? Revert to a fork?
Also now the lower ball joint is stuck in the steering knuckle. What's the procedure there to remove it? More PB and hammering?
[/img] |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Northof49 Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2013 Posts: 1759 Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
|
Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 7:38 am Post subject: |
|
|
Both studs are tapered and as such wedge themselves into the tapered opening of the lower knuckle and upper eccentric. It will likely require a puller to remove them without damaging the ball joints. _________________ 1958 Karmann Ghia owner |
|
Back to top |
|
|
drscope Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007 Posts: 15273 Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
|
Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 12:50 pm Post subject: |
|
|
If you have air, sometimes an air hammer will get them right off. Just make sure you aren't mashing the threads since you are trying to save the ball joint itself. _________________ Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
pwmcguire Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2011 Posts: 1108 Location: Kennesaw GA
|
Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 2:03 pm Post subject: |
|
|
It's gonna be tough, just keep at it. Maybe use some heat. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
blue77bay Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2006 Posts: 631 Location: Brisvegas Australia
|
Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 5:43 pm Post subject: |
|
|
See the point closest to the camera,line it up and give it a bloody good smack with a hammer ,dont fart around, hit it good ,the shock will release the taper _________________ I like hammers. Lots of hammers. Hammers and me go way back.
A large hammer collection is like an instant problem solver
Mark tucker wrote:,wack off as needed |
|
Back to top |
|
|
planenut Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2012 Posts: 334 Location: Georgia
|
Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 5:59 pm Post subject: ball joint seals |
|
|
I replaced my boots a while back, and the boots are easy. The hard part is getting the spiral retaining rings back on the boots. I found in a book that you have to have a special tapered tool to slide the retainers back on with. I didn't have that, but being an aircraft mechanic, I used 2 wraps of .032 safety wire. Does the same thing. I tried to find the tools for this, but couldn't. Good luck! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
shrinx Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2014 Posts: 22 Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
|
Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 4:39 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks for all the advice. I've gotten three of the four ball joints freed. One upper is still sending me from the garage to the beer refrig early. I've pounded, heated, pounded some more and have broken two wheel pullers in the process. (They were from Harbor Freight, so no big surprise.) Now it's me against the machine. Tomorrow is another day. I'm not giving up.
As far as sealing the boots with the rings, I remember reading somewhere on the Samba that someone used fishing line to position them, then cut the line. Since I don't have the boots yet, I'll have to evaluate that and may still go for wire wrapping.
Again, thanks for all the help.
Terry |
|
Back to top |
|
|
shrinx Samba Member
Joined: March 01, 2014 Posts: 22 Location: Santa Fe, New Mexico
|
Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 2:46 pm Post subject: |
|
|
SUCCESS! All it took was heating, hammering, pulling and persistence. Thank you drscope, Northof49, pwmcguire, blue77bay and planenut.
Terry |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|