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dellorto drla 36 on 1600 am I crazy?
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quartermilecamel
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 29, 2014 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok just bought those. NO more guessing. Will find out just how offset and what they do.
Drove it last night after making angle adapters. With out syncing the carbs it ran better Laughing Still not as good as its best.
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quartermilecamel
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

manifolds installed. I like it.
Next issue is the left carb throttle shaft linkage lever is somewhat worn in that it can be pivoted almost 90 degrees rotational direction on the throttle shaft. Somebody must have run this with the nut loose for a long time.
I only found this out when the nut came loose. Im not sure if this is a big deal or needs to have the hole welded up and redone in to the throttle shaft shape for a good fit.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2014 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can buy those throttle shaft levers for like $3.50, there is one on e-bay from seller alfa1750 "DELLORTO DRLA THROTTLE LEVER" Not sure it fit's your carbs though.
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quartermilecamel
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 12:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well yes they do fit my carbs but my levers have a 90 degree bend rear ward of the vehicle then 1/4 inch then a 90 degree bend again
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quartermilecamel
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FLIGHT #9164.3 NOW READY FOR BOARDING AND TAKE OFF!!!
I know where my lift off went. When I swapped in the emulsion tubes I bought in place of the 9164.3 tubes, I lost a good bit of launch.
I now have idle and full throttle again due to lever peening and re bending with a lever that's opening left carb same as right. Most important part is the linkage mounting point is at 90 degrees to the carb shaft and not wonky. I don't know why or whats different about the .2 emulsion tubes but sheeiiittt what a difference. I could go even more crazy starring at the emulsion tube picture to pick out why they run so differently,or if they really are .2, but unless somebody says they will hurt anything, they are staying in!!!
Now I just need a place to send the offending carb or carb due to the temp difference of #3 and #1
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quartermilecamel
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Checked choke pistons to see if one was staying open. Had to break them both free as they hadn't been sliding in their bores freely since I had the carbs. Then went on to compression test. This is where it gets weird. Steady cranking of the engine to at least 5 compression strokes on the engine compression tester reveals 80 to 100 psi on all 4. but if I bump the starter I can get most of the readings to 120. I am now stuidly uttery drunkenly stumped.
Update: Kinda stopped tweaking these carbs as I really did think the engine was just crapping out again. Turns out it was the shrader valve in the compression tester. Loose shrader valve and Im guessing there was crap in them. So its back to carb testing/troubleshooting 101. Now got readings of 140, 135, 135, 126 for psi so I think that's good. I didn't think holding the throttle open made that much difference but it did
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quartermilecamel
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2014 10:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

While taking apart left carb for the umptheenth time I noticed it said drla s. The right carb says drla d. This wouldn't make a difference would it? I think it wont but just checking.
Ok just accidentially stumbled on the d and s thing. S is left side, D is right side. And to think I almost bought a D carb lol.
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quartermilecamel
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 11:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just put new apron seal on. Plugged extra 2 inch blower hose holes in tin that aren't needed. Now the type 3 engine cover doesn't get as hot so that must have helped. Went for test drive. Not sure what the max incline was at 60mph but #1 at 405 degrees and #3 at 275. Just trying to button up loose ends before its parked for the winter. Not sure if I want to keep F*&&ing with used carbs or just go new. 125 degree difference in temps is just plain F**&ed. Spend 500 bucks to have these carbs gone through, or cut losses and go get good webbers.
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proudbugowner
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello!

I'm suffering from the same problem, #3 not firing at idle.. It starts at ~1400rpm.
Also switched carbs left to right and problem went to #2. Compression is okay an all cylinders.. Followed precious advice from modok to clean the main-idle petrol passageway with an L shaped wire, still no go.
Mixture passageway from top of idle get to progression holes to mixture screw seems to be clear too. Jets clear too.
Unscrewing the mixture screw even all the way out does not do anything..
Pulling a spark plug wire makes no difference to it, only when I reconnect it it increases rpm a tiny bit for 1 second.

You solved the problem just by soaking them?

Thanks for your time and sorry for using your thread.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you spray fuel or something in the top of the carb throat, does the cylinder pick back up? If so it's a carb problem.
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proudbugowner
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the reply!
Haven't tried to spray fuel so far, will do when I get home. Will carb cleaner do the job?
What I already did was to switch the carbs left to right... #3 was working ok with the other carb and the problem went to #2, as expected if it were a carb issue.
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proudbugowner
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi John! I sprayed some carb cleaner into #3 barrel and it seemed to pick up some rpm, but only a little.. I removed and stripped the carb to soak it in warm vinegar+water. Smile
Can it be that the air bypass valve is completely closed on #3 while on #4 it is a bit open + the butterfly valve gas a hair gap too on #4?
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 28, 2015 2:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update! After 12 hour soaking and a bit of spindle twisting to get each pair of the throttle valves aligned to their correspondent progression holes, they both now run perfectly! xD

Thank you all for all the info in numerous threads that enabled me to troubleshoot the problems!

Also special thanks to modok for the invaluable picture of the DRLA section.

Mario
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