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Fuel pressure
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wingman
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Ray,

Sounds like a long way to go but I will try to tackle them one by one.

The device I thought was the deceleration valve only have 2 ports on it. One is connected to a 3 way plastic connectors that has 2 fuel hoses connect to it. The other one is connected to a (vacuum?) hose that has the same size as dizzy vacuum hose. It also has 2 electrical terminals on it. Do you know what's the function of this device? I cannot find the deceleration valve if this is not the one.

Thanks,
Michael
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is the decel valve. It has an in port and and out port. It has a positive and a negative electrical connection. It should go to a 3 way (Y shaped fitting) on the right side of the center manifold. There may also be a 25mm small canister connected in or near it on the left side of the engine. That may have a small bore vacuum line. That is an advance cut off unit. Its purpose is to limit vacuum advance during certain periods like warm up. There may also be a silver control relay nearby and connected to it.

It is odd that you would find this combination outside of certain emmision controlled areas. What is your geographic location? Dont worry....you will get it fixed.....you just have ro work methodically. Ray
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wingman
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am in bay area, California.

My understanding is that the decel valve should have 3 ports which are connected to fresh air and vacuum sources. Mine only has 2 ports and one of them is connected to the fuel lines.

Thanks,
Michael
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah!....california.....that explains it. This is a CA vehicle. The electric decel valve itself has only two ports. In emissions control areas like CA there is another wystem that controls advance vacuum to lower NOX emmisions. This combination only comes on late type r in CA with automatic. Can you post a picture even if its to my pm? Its a pain in the backside system but the advance cut off portion is adjustable. Ray
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wingman
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 12:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will try to get some picture but it may be hard since it is under the car. Is there a proper way to adjust it? I just screwed the control port all the way in when I connected it. I found an article to adjust the traditional 3 port one:
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/djetparts.htm
but since mine is so different I am not sure whether it is the right way to do.

Thanks,
Michael
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Technically the adjusting point is the same. By that I mean that both the electric and vacuum powered valves should bleed air into the intake at the same volume and at the same time in the engine operation cycle.
However the electric pressure switch that triggers the valve may cause a slightly different effect or delay.

For the moment though.....the main thing is to make sure the decel valve is not leaking or operating at idle or during normal running. The only time the valve should open is when the engine is above 28-3200 rpm and you close the throttle all the way.
Also since we are looking at what may be affecting idle and looking at vacuum leaks.....it is worthwhile to get an o-ring from a 1.8 bus engine (its the only one available and works well) and replace your tb o ring. It commonly leaks and you should check and adjust the TVS (throttle valve switch) if its poorly adjusted it can cause an idle problem.
I will check to see what I can find about the electric decel valve adjustment. Ray
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bradself
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hijack warning! Ray, I hate to make you repeat yourself but I'd like to ask, what's the reco for a second pump and where would you locate it, in the typical plumbing scheme.

I'm going to flip my DJet pump, which is good, for an LJet pump and filter, but as I recall it needs a stand alone check valve on the return line, is that so??

I just bypassed a leaky cold start injector myself, world of difference in the idle, and hopefully the economy.

Thanks man!
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bradself wrote:
Hijack warning! Ray, I hate to make you repeat yourself but I'd like to ask, what's the reco for a second pump and where would you locate it, in the typical plumbing scheme.

I'm going to flip my DJet pump, which is good, for an LJet pump and filter, but as I recall it needs a stand alone check valve on the return line, is that so??

I just bypassed a leaky cold start injector myself, world of difference in the idle, and hopefully the economy.

Thanks man!


Dont worry....Im a hijacker myself! Laughing

The only real difference in the D and L pumps is that the D-jet pump has a return inlet.
They are both roller cell pumps. the L-jet pump "should" have a check valve....it must or you would lose pressure on shut down. The regulator IS the check valve on the return end...and the pump has the check valve on the feed end.

Either that or they hold pressure simply due to the tight tolerances of the roller cell area....which is quite possible. Oddly enough an actual L-jet pump is one of the few that I have not actually dissected.

Typically with age...D-jet pumps begin to leak at the relief valve or through the roller cells and bleed pressure down.

The L-jet pump should not "require" a feeder pump. It can benefit from one....just like the Digifant pumps in the WC cars had (they were virtually identical to L-jet pumps but actually had a separate outer screwed in check valve on some models)....which had very stable fuel pressure.

But you will need to plumb the return line. You will need a "Y" fitting (not a tee) between the pump and the tank. The bottom end of the Y faces the pump. One leg of the top of the Y goes to tank and one goes to return line. This also helps feed the L-jet pump.

If it ends up needing a feeder pump....let me know and i will find you a part #.
These moderate volume low pressure rotary pumps are bulletproof, low current draw and low pressure...and are self priming and can be mounted a distance away, have available check valves etc...can make good feeder pumps if they fit. You should feed to an in line accumulator (a filter canister or a piece of pipe with barbs).

http://www.walbro.com/media/39712/Recip5-8-13.pdf

The only L-jet "style" pumps that really require a feeder are the Bosch 044 type high pressure CIS pumps. They are high torque roller cell pumps...all have a check valve on the outlet end.

They are the same in design as L-jet...but because of the high operating pressure (70 psi minimum) they are prone to flow lock unless they have a feed with at least SOME pressure. Even 2-3 lbs in proper volume will do the job just fine. Ray
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bradself
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 11:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool, thank you! To circle back one step, for the sake of speculation, with the DJet pumps the Walbro would go between the tank and the Bosch, correct? And would likely need to be relayed like the Bosch, to kick on briefly at the same time as the Bosch?
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2014 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes.
There are lots of other pumps that can work as well and may be cheaper and smaller than that rotary pump. Let me look. It really doesnt take much except that the feeder pump simply needs to be able to supply enough volume that the main pump does not out draw it and make a restriction out of it. Any small amount of positive pressure is plenty. Ray
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