Project Slowly Underway: Berrien 295

dustymojave · Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 1:40 pm Post subject:

I give advice.

I'm not a tyrant. Except when I'm wearing my Tech Inspector shirt.
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Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
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Vanapplebomb · Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 5:39 pm Post subject:

I decided that for the time being I would use the stock carbs for the 1.8 engine. These are 34mm PDIST 2/3 carburetors. The left and right carbs are not identical. The drivers side (PDSIT 2) has the main central idle circuit whereas the passenger side (PDSIT 3) has none. The PDSIT 2 feeds the idle mixture into a tube which then feeds both the driver and passenger side manifolds. Pretty cool system really. It allows the idle mixture to be much leaner than if it were dropped directly into the manifolds from the main carburetor throats. The central idle circuit tube keeps the velocity up over a greater distance so that the fuel vaporizes rather than precipitate out. The vacuum retard on the DVDA distributor lets the engine run smoothly with the leaner idle mixture. At any rate, these are just a few pictures of pulling them apart. Once they were all torn down I soaked the parts in vinegar overnight, then scrubbed them with a tooth brush the next afternoon to clean them up. It worked pretty well. I also expoxied a couple pieces of copper tubing together to make the 90 degree elbows for the air intake to the central idle circuit. A 5/8 90 degree elbow and a 1/2 to 3/8 inch adapter fit together pretty good, and let me use 1/2in fuel hose for the air line.

PDSIT 3...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

PDSIT 2...

Central idle circuit air intake elbows.

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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

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Vanapplebomb · Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 2:45 pm Post subject:

I picked up a rusty and crust collector for a Type 4 engine that will bolt up to my manifolds. Fortunately it is just surface rust. Still rock solid. Not bad for 20 bucks.

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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

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Vanapplebomb · Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 11:19 am Post subject:

Last night I split the case. Lots of nuts and bolts. Nineteen 13mm perimeter nuts/bolts, six 17mm through-bolts/nuts, and one 13m bolt in the center to hang the oil pick up tube. Twenty six nuts and bolts need to be remove in order to separate the case halves. If you count the nuts/bolts you remove and come up short of twenty six, keep looking. Some of them are hidden pretty well.

Case halves split.

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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

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Vanapplebomb · Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2014 9:01 pm Post subject:

Removing the guts from the other case halve. Not to much to say. More show than tell. The picture sequence follows the order of how I removed the parts, starting by lifting out the cam.

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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

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Brian · Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 12:35 am Post subject:

Looking good
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Vanapplebomb · Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 1:23 pm Post subject:

Thanks man. Pretty neat engines these Type 4's, hu? A little more well thought out and much more beefy than the bugs in my opinion.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

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Vanapplebomb · Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 10:41 am Post subject:

Pretty soon I will be sending out me cam and lifters for a Regrind. Also will be taking the heads to get new exhaust valves, reground intake valves, cut seats, and new guides. Since the original 93mm Mahle pistons are in good shape I'm getting the original cylinders honed. No sense getting new ones when quality original parts still have lots if life in them. I got some NOS, ATE, cast iron rings for the pistons. Awesome. Top quality stuff.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

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Vanapplebomb · Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2014 3:41 pm Post subject:

Removed the big honkin' Type 4 rods this afternoon.

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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021

JabaDubRider · Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 4:21 am Post subject:

Maybe it is the green towel but it looks like the crank has a curve like it is bent!
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Vanapplebomb · Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 9:32 am Post subject:

I'll have the machine shop check it out when I get it polished. Probably an effect of the camera lense. Bending a Type 4 crank is darn near impossible. They are huge. Much much beefier than type 1 cranks.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

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Vanapplebomb · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 6:45 pm Post subject:

Hmmmm, I might have trouble with this. I don't think this header will clear the starter on the transmission, or the top of the bell housing area. That isn't such a big deal. Nothing a little slicing and dicing can't fix, right?

The only thing that could be an issue is how close to the output flanges/axles would be to the manifolds since they would extend out towards the front of the vehicle a ways Hmmm...

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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

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Brian · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 6:49 pm Post subject:

Holy cow

Yea if they don't clear, just get some more material and snake it along. Just so long as you retain the equal length
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'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
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'68 Camper

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Vanapplebomb · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:32 pm Post subject:

Yeah, a couple of 16 gauge donuts and a few feet of straight tubing should be plenty to get the issue sorted out.

The header alone has equal length runners. The manifolds it bolts up to, well...not so much. They are just old heater boxes cut down to the steel tubing at the center. That's why they have the goofy shape.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

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Brian · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 10:51 pm Post subject:

Maybe if you just need to go straight out, take some of those flanges and weld them to some pipe. Kinda like those "race" fanged heater boxes.
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'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper

Only losers litter

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 9:05 am Post subject:

Brian · Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 6:30 pm Post subject:

Yes. Imagine you need clearance by 6 inches on the collector, kinda like how you took that picture there is a gap. Instead of lengthening the pipe, you could make a piece that bridges that gap. Just tossing ideas.
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Wash your hands

'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper

Only losers litter

Vanapplebomb · Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 6:55 pm Post subject:

Ah, I see what you mean now. That actually gives me some ideas of different ways to do this things. I could keep the manifolds exiting towards the front of the car, make some 180deg adaptors so that the exhaust would then be routed towards the rear of the car about six or eight inches above where the manifold sits. Then just flip the header around. That would give me enough clearance for the top of the transmission for sure. Still not quite sure about the starter though. That could be the trick.

Thanks for the idea. One thing leads to another.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295

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Brian · Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 6:57 pm Post subject:

Boom, problem solved Very Happy

Just take some old pieces of exhaust to make the flanges and weld them to new tubes. Use OE gaskets and you have a fancy custom exhaust.
_________________
Wash your hands

'69 Bug
'68 Baja Truck
'71 Bug
'68 Camper

Only losers litter


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