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Boat-tail/Knife edge crankshaft counterweighs & rod thro
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

6061 t6 plates so i can machine them to what I want.more reamers,more this more that.more is always better....execpt on the bank account Shocked I tend to make most all my tooling. that way it does what I want it to do. but I do have plenty of expensive tooling/jigs,fixtures I didnt make. If I can make it I see no reason to pay for it.like the 3d ball seat cutting set up,expensixe to but but not much in materials&I just buy the mondello carbide incerts for about $30. a serface grinder would be nice...
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nsracing wrote:
What tools and jigs you talking 'bout, Tuck? For machining? I tooled mine workplace to be able to make tools and jigs. Once I get a 24" surface grinder, I will be golden. I have decided to do this VW thing till I cannot walk anymore.

..that and high-power shooting. Laughing

I am just tidying up a couple of engines now. So can get to Astro-man's project and do this balance job. Have a balance job coming from MN next week.

Anytime, Astro....


Ordered another crank pulley since I'll be using a different sand seal than originally planned, PM your address so I can ship once the pulley gets here.
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Boolean
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is really worth following! Dancing Applause Popcorn
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esde
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

theastronaut wrote:

Ordered another crank pulley since I'll be using a different sand seal than originally planned,


What pulley did you decide on? And what weight flywheel? If the crank balance ends up being too far out of whack, could NSR machine the pulley/ flywheel to compensate? Of course then they would be a matched set, but maybe better than wrecking that polishing job to balance it.
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do not think we want external balancing on this crank. Will stick to internal balancing - all independent part balanced by itself. Then we find out the total stack of unbalance once spun together.

The crank could be challenge but will hang it first on the balancer and see how far off it is. Such a nice crank.
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

esde wrote:
theastronaut wrote:

Ordered another crank pulley since I'll be using a different sand seal than originally planned,


What pulley did you decide on? And what weight flywheel? If the crank balance ends up being too far out of whack, could NSR machine the pulley/ flywheel to compensate? Of course then they would be a matched set, but maybe better than wrecking that polishing job to balance it.


Ordered a JayCee Billet 6" with steel hub machined for a sand seal. I wanted a steel hub so the seal won't cut into the surface it rides on. Don't like the idea of the seal riding on aluminum. If it doesn't cool then I can use a 356 top pulley. It should run cool with Super Squish pistons and full German tin with flaps/thermostat. I'm planning on a 4.12 R&P that'll spin the motor/fan faster than 3.88's and won't load the engine as much.
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crank is at Nick's and he had it on the balancer this morning. The number 1 and number 4 rod throws are heavy, one is 3.66 oz. too heavy and the other is 1.48 oz. too heavy. Lots of room for taking weight off in those areas.


Here is a vid he sent to show a stock crank in the balancer. I've never seen the process so I thought it was interesting.


Link




And my crank in the balancer.


Link

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58Dub
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great to see this is still alive! Popcorn
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veedubcrazy
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thats great. I genuinely wanted to see this thru.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

there are lots of aluminum pullys out now with steel sleve on them for the seal to ride on.
getter done nick!!
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 12:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is a LOT of weight to take off, Tuck. Laughing

I got the crank just yesterday on the way to work and I thought of it last nite. Got home, wifey said... "garage today?" I don't normally go work in the garage for anything if I am working but...my curiosity was in overdrive.
I had really thought it was going to 'jump out' of the trunnions. Very Happy

The crank should balance out fine. Just gotta 'diet' the #1/#4 side a little.

I love using this ProBal2000 - this machine will give you the Left/Right reads in just few seconds.
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nsracing wrote:

I had really thought it was going to 'jump out' of the trunnions. Very Happy


You just didn't spin it fast enough... Laughing
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2014 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The balancer tells you exactly the needed speed... You just spin it up until you get a read. All hard-bearing balancers are like that. So around 500 RPM is the average speed.

The older Stewart Warners soft-bearing ones have slower speeds around 250 RPM or so.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you could also take some out of the end counter weights,but I agree the center throws need some more to come of of them as the counter weights should be heavy. just be sure to do it carefuly keep it strong and so he can keep it purdy and polish it some more and not to induse any turbulance..... you got some work to do on that one....get after it!!
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andy198712
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

41grams to loose... whats a stock crank typically out by? or a CW crank?

cool thread Smile
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modok
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you look at page one you can see where the front and back cheeks had more hanging off by the rod. This was to counterbalance the outer cheeks and couterweights being wider than the center two. Stock crank is same way.
He took that off so now it is out of balance exactly as expected. Machine says it is more on one side but that's just because one end has a snout on it I betcha.

Pretty cool, that it is exactly how you'd think it'd be Very Happy
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You tell the balancer the distance from the trunnions where you want to either add or remove material. It is not arbitrary. I pointed out where weight can be taken out from. Best to leave the counterweights alone and take it from the thick webs on the #1/4 side. Dont worry guys, i think we got it covered. Let the big dog eat!!! Laughing
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GTV
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you thought about an aluminium pressure plate? I used one in my last engine, MUCH lighter than the standard steel version. I used it with a 12.5lb flywheel, aluminium pulley, and c/w stock German crank. It was an eager revver. I can't imagine how your engine will be!

Edit: I just found the info from where I weighed two Kennedy 1700lb pressure plates. The AL version was nearly 3lbs 6oz lighter.

Keep up the good work, that crank is a thing of beauty.
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SBD
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2014 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GTV wrote:
Keep up the good work, that crank is a thing of beauty.
I think the OP should try to make a crank case out of Lucite or some other clear material so that people can see the crank when the engine is together and running. Very Happy
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mark tucker wrote:
I wouldent waste $ or thyme on building a small motor. build it big so it dosent have to work hard.remember it's only as fast as your foot alows it to be unless you build a small turd then it just stinks as it squishes up through your toes when you step on it.
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theastronaut
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GTV wrote:
Have you thought about an aluminium pressure plate? I used one in my last engine, MUCH lighter than the standard steel version. I used it with a 12.5lb flywheel, aluminium pulley, and c/w stock German crank. It was an eager revver. I can't imagine how your engine will be!

Edit: I just found the info from where I weighed two Kennedy 1700lb pressure plates. The AL version was nearly 3lbs 6oz lighter.

Keep up the good work, that crank is a thing of beauty.


I'd rather take more weight off the flywheel than to use an aluminum pressure plate. And taking weight off of the outside of the flywheel would make more of a difference anyways.
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-Sir Henry Royce, co-founder of Rolls-Royce

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