Just bought home a 1965 1200 bug

[Almiscarado]

Hi there!

After 5 years 'bug-less' (I had a 1969 1300 before) just found a nice looking 1965 1200 and brought it home
Had some trouble to do it, first time it was backfiring and had no power, the previous owner changed plugs but after 5km it got dead.
He took it to his mechanic that cleaned the fuel filter and finnaly I got it home (40km trip).
On my way home, at about half way, I started listening to a rattle that seems like the fan is rubbing somewhere.

Anyway, I need to do the basics for a new (to me) Volkswagen, what should I begin with? I need this bug to be reliable as a daily car (I actually only need it two days a week because I ride a bike to work).

I am pretty sure this has been spoken before here, but It seems I cannot find those posts...

Best regards and yes, it is a great feeling to ride a beetle once again

Cheers!

Sergio

[KTPhil]

With any "new to me car" I would go through the whole car with the following in mind:
(1) safety
(2) reliability
(3) comfort and convenience

(1) Safety:
- general under-car search for rust and loose or missing nuts and bolts.
- check or replace all soft brake lines and fuel lines. Adjust, flush and bleed the brakes. Tighten handbrake cable after adjusting shoes.
- check tires and rims carefully Remove and re-torque lug nuts.
- check all elements of the steering, from the wheel through the rag joint, steering box, pitman arm, tie rod ends, and wheel bearings. Adjust the bearings, and reset toe-in (via tie rods). Lube the front axle and tie rods.
- check engine bay for anything loose, missing, or leaking.
- check exhaust system for leaks (avoid CO poisoning)
- check all external lights and align headlamps

(2) Reliability
- check fuel tank for clogs or rust.
- check/replace gaskets/diaphragms in fuel pump and carburetor. Safety wire the carb inlet while you are at it. Re-use your float valve when you work on the carb-- new ones are junk.
- check and replace rear axle boots, top up tranny
- check your shifter for tightness; replace couple and bushing if needed.
- check that all tin is in place, the fan belt is new and adjusted, and you have a spare.
- tune-up of engine including valve adjustment and oil change.
- look over dash and engine wiring and connections. Tighten, solder or replace any that are questionable. Have spare fuses handy.
- adjust the clutch

(3) Comfort and convenience.
- clean all glass and check that wipers work.
- check door and window seals, clear out door bottom drains.
- stock spare tune-up parts, clutch cable, accel cable, tools, rags, overalls, manuals
- adjust your heater cables and check defroster hoses for leaks

That's a couple of weekends of work but well worth it!

[grandpa pete]

If you are getting a "ting " "ting " sound and you THINK it's the fan rubbing........

.Don't run the car till you pull the valve covers and check the valves !!!!!

I thought the fan was hitting and when the valve poked a hole in the top of the piston it didn't make the "ting' "ting " noise any more

Replacing a stretched valve is a lot easier than replacing a piston !
_________________
63 two fold rag
66 sedan delivery Type 6

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569619&highlight=sedan+delivery

[Almiscarado]

Hi!

Thank you very much for the checklist, KTPhil, will try to follow it the best I can.

grandpa pete : today I had some time to start doing some work on the beetle, and found out the rattling was just a loose metal plate on the back of the engine. I am relieved!
Also discovered the vaccum tube was disconected, so I think I will run with better performance next time, right? (I connected it and tested with my mouth)

Best,

Sergio

[shortride]

I wouldn't recommend anyone drive a car home if it's been sitting up for an expended period even if it started and appeared to run ok. Some may be surprised how much grief it could save you.
_________________
Pearl White 1966 Sedan

Retired US Army - 21 years 11B40, 173rd Airborne Brig. - Vietnam Combat Veteran

[Almiscarado]

Is this fuel filter a no no?

[Almiscarado]

Here is another photo of this fuel filter... I had never seen one like this, how does it work?

[KTPhil]

It's not a filter, it's a check valve that stops fuel from siphoning from the tank into the carb and overflowing the bowl. From another thread:

...external check valve was installed on 40hp engines up until 1965 Volkswagen Part Number for the Check Valve is 113-127-405. APG/Volkswagen Made-in-Germany Fuel Check Valve as was originally installed on 1965 Bugs and Karmann Ghias with the 40HP 1200 Motor.

This Check Valve connects was installed by the VW Factory to shut off fuel flow from the fuel pump to the carburetor when the motor was shut off.

The through line connects onto the threaded inlet of the fuel pump, and the other line accommodates the outlet from the fuel pump to the carb. There is an arrow cast into the body of the valve to show proper fuel flow direction.

[Almiscarado]

Should I buy an in-line fuel filter then? What is the best place to locate it?

Best,

Sergio

[KTPhil]

Don't put an inline filter in the engine bay-- it's the cause of many fires. The weight and extra connections can spell trouble. If you do put it in the engine bay, clamp the filter to the shroud (don't drill into the oil cooler, though!); don't let it dangle.

Some put it under the tank, others at the outlet under the car next to the tranny.

Some just rely on the filter sock in the tank outlet, and the fuel pump gauze screen, as VW did when these cars were new.