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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5410
Location: Holland, MI
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 Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 3:12 pm Post subject: Oil Bath Air Cleaner |
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Anybody have suggestions about which paint to use on an oil bath air cleaner and steel intake elbows? I don't want to paint it and then have all the paint come off when it gets oily, or exposed to fuel vapors. I would prefer not to powder-coat.
Thanks!
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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supersuk
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Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2014 4:21 pm Post subject: |
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Depending on your budget, you can go with a good paint like KBS RustSeal
http://www.kbs-coatings.com/RustSeal.html
Or you can do a single stage urethane.
The KBS should last longer unless it will be exposed to UV rays. If it will be, KBS also has a blacktop that goes over the RustSeal to prevent the coating from discoloring. I'm using the KBS on my axle tubes and a bunch of other suspension stuff and its holding up really well. I would recommend blasting the metal before painting though. I used 80 grit garnet to blast the pieces before spraying the KBS stuff. I had to thin it a little to make it flow nicely. Put on very thin coats if you're gonna spray and make sure that there is 0 moisture in your air supply or you will see what looks like fisheye start to form in the coating. Brushing is also possible, but you have to work fast if your area is humid.
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5410
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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Just stopped by my auto parts store, and they recommended VHT's engine enamel. Apparently it is oil and gas resistant after curing in an electric oven at 200 degrees. Anybody ever use this stuff?
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5410
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 8:58 pm Post subject: |
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I decided to try the VHT paint. I am really surprised at how well it holds up. I followed the directions to a tee and it worked great. Two light coats ten minutes apart, followed by a medium coat ten minutes after that. I let it dry to the touch for a few hours, then baked it in the oven for one hour at 200 deg F. The surface is hard and very scratch resistant. I sprayed some carb cleaner on a rag and wiped the surface. No paint came off the the rag. I'm sold. I think I will use this stuff for my cooling tin as well.
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1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
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supersuk
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Joined: December 20, 2010
Posts: 958
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii
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| Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 10:58 am Post subject: |
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Thats good to know! At least people now have an option. Did you bake the paint and parts in the oven you cook out of or do you have a spare one? I'd use some of the bake on coatings, but I only have one oven and it could potentially be harmful to use the one that I cook with.
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5410
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 11:11 pm Post subject: |
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I cooked it in the same oven I cook in. Just leave the oven open a few minutes after your done baking it to let the vapors disperse.
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5410
Location: Holland, MI
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| Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2014 11:15 pm Post subject: |
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I posted this write up of what I did in the Bay Window Bus forum earlier today if you are interested.
| Vanapplebomb wrote: |
I recently got my hands on a 72 oil bath air cleaner and decided to breath some new life into it. The air cleaner itself was rusty and the flaps were sticking.
I started by pulling everything apart. I uncliped the top and removed it. Then I started pulling the flaps. To remove the nylon clips that hold the flaps in you need to pinch the ends of them with a pair of pliers. While pinching them, pull up on them. They should pop out pretty easy. Before you pull the thermostat flap, disconnect the vacuum motor diaphragm. It is held in by two flat head screws. Once they are loose, you can tilt the vacuum motor diaphragm and slide the rod out of the clip on the top of the flap. Finagling the metal flaps out of the snorkel can be a bit more tricky. Both need to be removed. The gravity flap and the thermostat flap. Once the flaps are removed the snorkel should look like this.
This is the hardware and flaps that were removed.
Once the housing was completely stripped of hardware, I cleaned as much large crud off as I could, then I put it in the dishwasher for a good cleaning. I took the coconut hair canister and soaked it in a degreaser solution. You can use pretty much any degreaser that you want to. Kerosene works well, but is a bit pricy just to use as a cleaner. I used Pine Sol in the kitchen sink. Let the coconut hair element soak for several minutes, then dunk it several times and let the solution drain out. You will be amazed at the crap that comes out of it. Once that was finished, I drained the dirty solution and refiled the sink with clean water. I then dunked the element several times again to get as much of the degreaser out as I could.
Once that was over I put it in the oven at low heat for a couple hours to dry it out.
With all the parts cleaned up, I used a wire brush to remove the majority of the rust scale. Some rough parts I sanded down to smooth it out a bit. I did not strip the rust down to bare metal. I left a thin layer of rust on the parts. Spraying rust neutralizer onto it starts a chemical reaction that makes a surface that is ready for paint, similar to a primer. A couple coats of the rust neutralizer dries it should be a dark color like the top of this.
The paint you use needs to be chemically resistant to stand up to constant contact with fuel vapors and oil. VHT's Engine Enamel works very well. Spray on two thin coats ten minutes apart. Then apply a medium coat ten minutes later. Once it dries to the touch, put the parts in the oven at 200 deg F for one hour. This creates a nice hard and chemically resistant surface.
The following pictures show the sequence of the reassembly. This is the bare snorkel.
The next step is to insert the counterweighted flap into the slot.
Then you need to clip the shaft into the natural colored nylon clip. Once you get it clipped into the bushing, compress the two tabs on the top with a pliers and push it down into the slot until it locks.
Then insert the thermostat flap into the bottom of the snorkel. Make sure the metal clip on the surface of the flap is facing up so that you can hook up the vacuum motor. It needs to be in this orientation for it to work.
Once you slide the flap into the snorkel, hook it to the black nylon pivot, pinch the two tabs on the pivot and press it down into the snorkel.
Then insert the vacuum motor diaphragm into the top of the snorkel in this orientation. When you fish it through the top, tilt it and slide the rod though the metal clip in the top of the thermostat flap.
Lastly, screw down the metal strap over the vacuum motor diaphragm.
Enjoy! |
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panicman
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Joined: December 18, 2011
Posts: 2290
Location: Canby, OR
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| Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2014 9:54 am Post subject: |
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Not wife-friendly for my house, but great write up! Thanks for the info on VHT!
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Vanapplebomb
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Joined: November 03, 2010
Posts: 5410
Location: Holland, MI
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raygreenwood
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Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21512
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2014 9:16 am Post subject: |
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I will vouch for the VHT paints as well. Asesome stuff. I just recently did all lf my front suspension parts with VHT single stage epoxy. Awesome stuff!
I did high temp parts like the steering knuckles and disc shields with the engine enamel with a bake. I have used their products before. Their disc brake caliper paint is just excellent. Ray |
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irun5k
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Joined: February 21, 2014
Posts: 335
Location: St. Petersburg, FL
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| Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2014 9:47 am Post subject: |
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I did mine recently and used Rustoleum automotive formula in a rattle can.
I didn't paint the inside. It wasn't rusty at all and didn't need it and I felt like it might create more problems. If I did have to paint it due to rust or some other ailment, I would have only used a 2K paint of some type.
If you want to add the proper sticker, WW sells one but it is a water transfer decal meaning you probably want to clear it. A guy on the forum here that restores air cleaners sells reproduction stickers as well and I think they might be a real adhesive sticker. WCM sells them also but not sure if it is a decal or sticker.
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Vanapplebomb
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Location: Holland, MI
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