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1968 Autostick, bangs in to low and grinds in to reverse
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wolfsmum
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Joined: August 17, 2014
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Location: Cornwall
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 9:20 am    Post subject: 1968 Autostick, bangs in to low and grinds in to reverse Reply with quote

Thought I would post up my issues and hopefully the cure in the hope that it may help someone in a similar position.

When I first got my '68 Autostick a few weeks ago, it really banged into low gear and reverse was impossible to engage withought really grinding. If you were really quick, you could get in to reverse but it would still grind.

Any way. First we looked at the actual stick, took it apart, cleaned the contacts and reassemebled. Still had the same issue.

Then we looked at the carb connection to the control valve. Turns out the small vacuum hose was connected to the wrong port on the carb. Once connected to the correct one, it certainly helped. Didnt bang quite so hard and the grinding was lessened.

Then we looked at replacing all the vacuum hoses and checking the components to see if they held a vacuum.
Changed out all the large hoses as a matter of course. Checked the control valve held a vacuum which it did. Checked the vacuum storage cannister and it to held a vaccum. Checked the clutch servo and hopefully found the final issue!
The clutch servo would not hold a vacuum so today hubby removed it in readiness for the repair kit.
All of the photos of the unit and strip are here,
Picture link
but I will post up a few to show what was found.

As you can see the unit is in very good condition. Not sure if it is original to the car but absolutely no rust.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


In the video, you can see that the unit does not hold a vacuum, hence the issues I am having ( Hopefully!!! )
http://vid1049.photobucket.com/albums/s388/wolfsmum/Clutch%20Servo/20140920_112446_zpse42c4520.mp4

Here you can see the hole in the diaphragm.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Hubby will clean it up a little in readiness to fit the new diaphragm and hopefully after installation, that will solve my shifting issues.
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wolfsmum
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, as hubby has far too much time on his hand, he has found a way of repairing the actual diaphragm just in case the new one ever gets holed......
In town today he spent a whole £0.49 on a cycle punture repair kit.

One patch either side of the diaphragm and now just holding the 2 halves of the servo together, its impossible to move the actuating rod at all! Rolling Eyes
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carl4x4
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 20, 2014 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a semi-auto beetle with exactly the same problem, a tear in the rubber in the vacuum diaphragm. I repaired it with a cycle repair kit and it lasted a good few more years.
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wolfsmum
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Missed the postman/courier yesterday so this was delivered today.....big box just for a repair kit.
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First thing hubby said was how cheap and thin the rubber felt, only time will tell how long it lasts.
Anyway, he cleaned up the servo housing and hardware using carb cleaner and because there was no rust, he rebuilt it, as is, with the new diaphragm. He did have to have a few attempts at getting the securing band on as for the first 3 times, there was a slight leak.

Adjusted the servo as per the Bentley manual and refitted to the car. Turned out the clutch arm was in exactly the right place.
Started her up and went through the gears, NO banging, Crunching or lurching! Turned off engine and touched the gearstick. Had enough vacuum to hear 11 control valve operations! Very happy........untill, started her up again put her into reverse and ( click on the link ).....

Click me!

When the car is put in to gear, it takes approx 10 seconds for the car to start moving. Hoping this is a simple control valve adjustment needed??
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NOVA Airhead
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It should not take that long but should go right into gear. You can adjust how quickly it engages and that is likely the problem.
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carl4x4
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 3:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The autostick is actually a lot simpler than a full auto box when you look at the basics components. It's a manual 3 speed box where the clutch arm is moved by a servo (the one you've rebuilt). As you know, the servo moves in & out when the microswitch actuates in the gearstick.
The main added complexity is that in order to smooth this sudden on/off clutch arm motion you have a torque converter in-between the clutch & engine.

Once the car is in any gear it should only take the amount of time for the viscosity of the fluid in the torque converter to build up sufficient resistance to start moving.

Is the ATF fluid at the correct levels and the ATF pipes from the pump connected properly? If so have you checked that when you release the gearstick & the microswitch clicks that the clutch arm is going back to it's rest position? I watched the video you posted but it was a little too dark to see what was going on.

When you say it takes about 10 seconds to move off, do you mean 10 seconds of increased engine revs or at idle?
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