1966 Beetle in Louisville, Ky

wcfvw69 · Posted: Sat May 24, 2014 5:24 pm Post subject:

I agree with the fact that the original (German) cloth braided fuel lines are tough to get off once fitted. I've driven these cars for 30+ years and never had one come off. I still use clamps just for peace of mind. I just barely snug the clamps.

I do disagree with Aussiebug. VW did deliver these cars with clamps on the fuel lines. Just looking thru the 69 bug owners manual on this site, you can see a picture of the fuel pump with a crush style clamp on it going from the fuel pump to the carb. Maybe it was in Australia that they didn't clamp the lines?
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Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

mrmdls · Posted: Sat May 24, 2014 5:42 pm Post subject:

Here's a little more to add to the fuel hose clamp discussion or confusion. I took a look at the Aug 66 owner's manual on the site and in one of the images it shows no fuel hose clamp from the pump.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/67bug/31.jpg

With that in mind, I believe that VW on the later bugs used clamps, and also issued the service bulletin that Eric&Barb discussed for earlier beetles
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75 model 110 (Basic Bug) - Project Daily Driver

boxkiteflyer · Posted: Sun May 25, 2014 4:58 am Post subject:

Clint, that's a nice Bug! I have a difficult time making the club meetings due to work but hope to see it 'in the flesh' sometime.

Speedmster · Posted: Sun May 25, 2014 7:41 am Post subject:

Speedmster · Posted: Sun May 25, 2014 7:47 am Post subject:

I agree the factory setup had no clamps, but I'd like to take some extra precautions. I'm not showing this car. I plan to drive it quite a bit. I had a 74' Super Beetle catch on fire when I lived in Montana back in the 90's while my wife was driving. That was the first and last time she would drive it.

I'm looking at the ABA clamps. What size are the cloth braided fuel lines on a 66' Beetle? 5.5mm?

Speedmster · Posted: Mon May 26, 2014 5:41 am Post subject:

The last few days I've been working on the high/low beam switch that goes in the turn signal arm. I was able to find a broken turn signal switch in the classifieds and move over the switch to our grey switch. Ran new wiring to the switch arm. The arms had a few differences and had to improvise a little. Nothing a Bic ballpoint pen tube can help with. Works like a champ.

I also had a problem with the throttle sticking when pressed down the peddle to about half throttle. I removed the peddle assembly and found a part was missing. The roller was missing from the connecting lever. As I stated previously, dad had someone rebuilding this car in the early 2000's and I guess they never installed it. Anyway, so the accelerator peddle was "sort of" sliding on the connecting lever. Glad dad had stripped a 67' Beetle and had extra parts. Got the roller off the extra peddle assembly and cleaned it and the connecting lever up, and lubed. While I was there I checked the accelerator cable and clutch cable for freedom of movement. They both moved easily. That peddle assembly isn't hard to get out, but it was my first time removing one and it took a while.

I have a carburetor idle issue. I have been reading other threads on this forum to start working that problem. I'm going to start with Rob and Dave's Aircooled Volkswagen Pages write up on Basic tune up, and Adjustment for 34 PICT/3 Carburetor (also covers the 30PICT/3 and 4, 31PICT/4, 31PICT, and H30/31).
It seems to be the right way to go. The car runs great as long as you always have a gas peddle pressed. If you stop at a light or stop sign and don't keep feeding a little gas it dies on it's own. This engine has sat for 8 years. I think a rebuild kit is in order to say the least. It's a Solex 30 PICT/3.

And last but not least, decided to get a new fire extinguisher. The lovely rather large one I keep in the rear floor board was temporary until I could find one that was compact yet effective. I ordered a HalGuard HG250R 2.5lb extinguisher from H3R Performance and a JEGS Billet mount.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Speedmster · Posted: Mon May 26, 2014 7:35 am Post subject:

I have had an oil leak in the engine compartment. I think it is from the oil bath cleaner. I took it out yesterday and it seemed to have a lot of oil in it. I read somewhere on here that it should have something like 500cc. I removed about half of what it had. My leak is coming from where the crank case fumes hose connection to the cleaner. You can see the hose has oil stain.

I think this is a 69' oil bath cleaner. I'm going to start looking for a 66' oil bath cleaner. The engine number is F2139842. From what I'm seeing in the FAQ section this would be a 1970 1300. Can anyone confirm what I'm reading in the engine code section correctly?

I also read that a later model oil bath cleaner will not fit correctly in a 66'. That is true. This air cleaner rubs the deck lid.

ABA fuel line clamps are on order.

Speedmster

Had a fun weekend with the Beetle. Drove with the local Classic VW Club of Louisville to Bardstown KY for lunch then to the Marker's Mark Distillery. The Beetle did well for the most part. Parking brake stopped working. Next weekends project. Here are a few Photos front the cruise.

Kinda cool. If you buy a bottle in the gift shop you have the option to dip it in the wax yourself.

Speedmster · Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:37 am Post subject:

What is the difference between a Solex 30 PICT-1 and 30 PICT-2 carburetors? Is one better than the other?

wcfvw69 · Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 1:10 pm Post subject:

Speedmster · Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 2:07 am Post subject:

wcfvw69 · Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2014 6:19 am Post subject:

Good deal. Suggestion, make sure the throttle shaft is tight w/out slop or side to side play. If you find ANY, you should really get the shaft re-bushed before rebuilding it. There's a guy (Tim @ volkzbitz) that has a great reputation for rebuilding these carbs. You could also find a local shop that could rebush the shaft like I did.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

Speedmster · Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2014 7:12 am Post subject:

Got a few things done to the Beetle over the last few weeks. Finally got the windshield wipers working. It was a ground issue. It's not that I plan on driving it in the rain, but the rain might plan to fall while I'm driving. Best to be prepared. Got the fire extinguisher mounted. I wanted it as close to the driver seat as possible, but not up front. Plus, I wanted it to be seen quickly if it was needed and someone was outside the car. Was able to find a spare wheel in the local area. A tire came with it, but it looks to be original or at least close to a 1960's tire. Time for a new tire. Got the 30PICT-1 carb sent off to Tim @ Volkzbitz last week to get rebuilt. Still running a 30PICT-2 until that gets back. Turned over 700 miles on the odometer yesterday!

Parts I'm looking for:
1966 Oil Bath cleaner
1966 Windshield Washer Bottle
Blaupunk Koln, AM/FM/LW Automatic (US band) radio

Link

[youtube][/youtube]

Speedmster · Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 5:09 am Post subject: Right Rear Brake Noise

We are getting a grinding / popping noise on the right rear brake. The noise only happens when lateral pressure is applied or at least that is when it's the most noticeable. Left hand turns it makes the most noise. We pulled the right rear wheel and drum. The drum doesn't show signs of rubbing on the housing. When free spinning the wheel ( both rear wheels in the air on jack stands ) the only thing we hear is some very lite brake shoe rub, but nothing like what we hear when we drive the car. With the drum off, still on jack stands, we hear no noise at all when we free spin the axle. At first we thought maybe a bearing, but the bearing is not making any noise. Here are a few photos. Any thoughts?

Speedmster

Swapped out the wheels temporarily to sandblast and repaint our 66' wheels. Our wheels have a lot of paint chips on them. Using a set of 65' chrome wheels. Looks different.

We also got one of those replica bamboo trays to put under the dash. I have been working on finding a local 66' license plate and finally found one.

sportin-wood · Posted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 8:22 pm Post subject:

Looks nice! Did you ever figure out what the sound was from the brake area? The only thing that I thought that looked odd was that shim on the axle shaft. I've only ever seen them inside the bearing cover like #13 in this diagram.

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Paused 66 project bug
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"Relax, all right? My old man is a television repairman. He's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it." --- Jeff Spicoli

72on18's · Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 10:02 am Post subject:

Great looking car. I'm right across the water in southern indiana. Who did your headliner? I will be ready for a headliner in my 68 soon and it's not a job I want to tackle.

AlanInMass54 · Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 10:13 am Post subject:

Did you ever find the air cleaner and washer bottle? I think I may have some in my shed. Beautiful car!

Speedmster · Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 12:39 pm Post subject:

Speedmster · Posted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 12:41 pm Post subject:


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1966 Beetle in Louisville, Ky
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