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Just got a Continental!
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jjjjack
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

water guy wrote:

At this point I am so distracted by staring at my firetruck, the porsche will be hybernating for a bit.


I understand how you feel. I'm engrossed in my new, to me, '59. It's hard enough to remember to drive the Porsche weekly, much less do the kind of work you need/want to do to your Continental.
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Jack Stenner
1959 Mango Westfalia SO-23
1953 Porsche 356 Coupe
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James Davies
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 30, 2014 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

water guy wrote:
I am puzzled about the windshield wipers. It
seems odd that when they rotate to the left, half
the wiper leaves the window. At the center bent half.
Is this correct?
Thanks


Yes, this is correct. Opposing wipers were used up through through coupe 52029, which was about the end of April 1954. From 52030 onward, wipers were parallel with articulated blades that were supposed to follow the shape of the windshield, even the bend. Sometimes they didn't. This was a cost saving measure so as to not need separate R and L wiper arms/blades. Parallel wipers use the same arms and are not handed.

This is outlined in pages 330-337 in the 1955 parts book, and in 356 Registry Magazine vol 12#1 pg10. In fact, the Registry article gives a complete history of pre-A wiper development. Fascinating stuff. *cough*
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water guy
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I have kind of an odd question. I removed my engine to install a new clutch. Everything went fine. Now I just cannot get the engine back in the car. I have done every combination of push poll tilt and twirl that I can think of! My question is can I pull the heater boxes off, install the engine and put them back on? Is there room to install the heater boxes with the engine bolted up?
Thanks for any replies or criticism....Smile
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The upper through bolt on the transmission mount, that goes through the bell housing, must have the bolt head inside the bell housing, and the nut/washer on the outside.
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MMW
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last time I installed my engine I couldn't get it in. I had installed a new seal on the tin that goes against the firewall. Believe it or not this was the issue. I put the old one back on & it went in.

You did use a line up tool when tightening the clutch & pressure plate?

I'm sorry I don't have an answer about the heater boxes.
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Mic
1959 356 coupe
Missing the original engine 72488
Update - third pc. found!
Now just need the case halves.
1965 fenderless beetle
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good one, Mic. He didn't say what else he did besides the clutch. Was the pp balanced to the fly wheel? That's a crap shoot if not.
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water guy
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe my post did not make sense so I will try to say it in a different way. I have the car on jackstands up in the air. I have the engine sitting on my floor jack under the car in the engine compartment. When I raise the engine up the front end of the heater boxes hit the axle tubes. If I rock the engine towards the back of the car and continue raising it to get over the axle tubes the generator hits the back end of the engine compartment. I just can't get the engine up so I can push it onto the spline of the transmission. It was a sunny day and I was not drinking today!! So I am just baffled Smile
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water guy
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Do these heater boxes look correct for a 1955 Continental? They seem to be original but boy they are a bitch to get in the car!! Smile
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raise the jack stands another notch so that the rear tires are 6 to8 " off of the ground. Jack the engine up slightly so that you can tilt the muffler end of the engine more towards the ground, enough to clear the heater tubes over the axle. Push the engine to the front of the car, while raising the engine. It has to go in and be raised on a zig-zag motion. Don't try to install the engine with the upper muffler shroud or dipstick in place. Please don't take any offense, but if you are having trouble with this rudimentary procedure, you may be in over your head with this. Very expensive repairs can be the result if proper procedures are not followed.
Best to you
J
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't understand all of those beams/blocks of wood Confused
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water guy
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've installed and removed many engines from my Volkswagen bugs over the years. I put a 36 horse Okrasa motor in my 60 without even a scratch. This is just a little bit different... There is no offense I just feel stupid right now.

Those blocks of wood are there because my little boy was playing with hot wheels on them. He was just hanging out enjoying my frustration!
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny.... with a clear mind it only took about six minutes to put the engine back in.
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water guy
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have looked over my tech manuals, but I am stumped.
So here goes...
Got my motor back in, everything hooked up and cleaned up.
I can only shift into second and fourth. Which is strange because I never touched or did anything with the linkage. I have tried everything, but I do not want to force anything.
Has anyone ever had this issue.

Any constructive advise would be appreciated.
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Jacks
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where did you place the jack under the car when you raised it up for the engine r&r?
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water guy
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

From the transmission cradle on the engine end of the tranny. Didn't think I could hurt anything since it is bolted to the body and solid..
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well it seems that the previous owner liked to use nails instead of cotter pins. The nailhead was dragging on the tunnel and getting caught on a seam. I removed the other three nails and installed Cotter pins. At least it didn't happen at a traffic light.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rolling Eyes
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Jack Staggs
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water guy
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the car back on the road, and a coat of wax on it.
I think she's happy to be moving again!
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jjjjack
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 3:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bet she is. Congratulations! Applause
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water guy
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any thoughts about me running another fuel filter under the car where there is that small section of rubber hose between the engine and the line coming out of the tunnel of the car....
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