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Hamsterben Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2011 Posts: 238 Location: Kooskia Idaho
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Posted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 12:08 am Post subject: |
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That is a beautiful sight. _________________ 1973 Super Beetle parts bug no title
1969 Baja Bug
1969 sunroof bug body off in progress
1964 type 3 truck soon to be body off resto
1973 international 1110
1970 international 1210 4x4 |
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MaximumFinishes Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2014 Posts: 100 Location: Donnelly,ID
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Posted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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Got the engine pulled! It's always nice to see progress. Now to disconnect the brakes and cut the remaining body/front beam bolt. The lower one on the drivers side:
right next to the jack stand, is PITA cuz the beam has been smooshed up into it and now I can't get a socket or wrench on it. Guess the only option is to cut it, right?
Also, front beam is majorly dented. Are new ones available or do I have to salvage one?
Thanks guys,
Max _________________ '64 Type 3 "Noback" - Frank
'68 Squareback - Charlie
'73 Westy - Mac
'98 Honda CR-V - Dee
'97 Subaru Impreza Outback - Dennis |
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MaximumFinishes Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2014 Posts: 100 Location: Donnelly,ID
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 6:30 am Post subject: |
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Nevermind:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1495551
I forgot everything anyone could ever need is already here somewhere. _________________ '64 Type 3 "Noback" - Frank
'68 Squareback - Charlie
'73 Westy - Mac
'98 Honda CR-V - Dee
'97 Subaru Impreza Outback - Dennis |
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Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 6:51 am Post subject: |
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Im watching _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
[email protected] |
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MaximumFinishes Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2014 Posts: 100 Location: Donnelly,ID
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Posted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 2:46 pm Post subject: |
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It's slow progress, but it's progress all the same...
Here's a pic of my "engine stand"...
in action...
Still haven't cut the front bolts off yet. Man, it'll be nice to have the body off. _________________ '64 Type 3 "Noback" - Frank
'68 Squareback - Charlie
'73 Westy - Mac
'98 Honda CR-V - Dee
'97 Subaru Impreza Outback - Dennis |
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oxsign Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2006 Posts: 607 Location: Sanford, FL
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Stuartzickefoose Samba Post Whore
Joined: February 07, 2008 Posts: 10350 Location: SoCal for now...
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 2:05 pm Post subject: |
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That bucket dolly makes my think of a lazy boy toilet..... know what i mean? Engine can rest and its okay if it takes a leak now and then, right into the bucket! _________________ Stuart Zickefoose
2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual
206-841-7324
[email protected] |
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MaximumFinishes Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2014 Posts: 100 Location: Donnelly,ID
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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 11:57 am Post subject: |
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Finally got the pan dropped!
At least what's left of it. I had to cut the seats out as the door side guide was rust welded in place.
Working on getting the body completely stripped. I've been removing the wiring with blatent disregard as I'm planning on a new wiring harness. Is this unwise? Also, what is this cable?
This lil truck sure is taking up a lot of space in the garage.
It even spreads into the "parts shed".
My feelings of accomplishment are hampered by the daunting task still ahead of me, but I won't be deterred. This truck WILL be finished by the time my son graduates high school. That's only 8 years away, but I think I can do it.
Oh ya, some of my engine tin screws refuse to budge despite all my soaking and persuading. I don't see how I cut em off without damaging the tin. Any suggestions?
Thanks all,
Max _________________ '64 Type 3 "Noback" - Frank
'68 Squareback - Charlie
'73 Westy - Mac
'98 Honda CR-V - Dee
'97 Subaru Impreza Outback - Dennis |
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bad1916 Samba Member
Joined: November 14, 2010 Posts: 224 Location: Camarillo ca
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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 12:19 pm Post subject: |
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Great work! I believe that cable is what's left of the seat back release.it should go from a lever at the pillar to the underside of the seat frame. _________________ SEMPER PARATUS!
1963 SQUAREBACK |
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Mike Fisher Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006 Posts: 17968 Location: Eugene, OR
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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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You will need a Dremel grinder for tight spots on these cars. The body doesn't look bad! Just need a fresh chassis to roll back underneath the body! _________________ https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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65Nsqback Samba Member
Joined: September 17, 2004 Posts: 1256 Location: Grantsville UT
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Posted: Sat Nov 22, 2014 1:15 pm Post subject: |
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Look as if the car was Originally Nutria and maybe even a two tone with a white roof ? _________________ Wow look at that THAT'S A "SHOW CAR"!!
________________________________________
you can't be something your not...be your self by your self stay away from me
__________________________________
I'm Trying to help you.......but you don't hear me... |
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MonT3 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012 Posts: 1988 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 7:57 am Post subject: |
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Congrats on your progress. As for the wire harness, if you plan on getting a new one, try to remove what you have as completely as you can as someone else may need a section or pieces. Some folks may run into an engine bay fire and need the rear section to splice in. Happened to me a while back. just a thought.
Once you clean the rusted pieces off the pan/tunnel area, you'll have a good start point to get it back together. When I started on my rebuild I was told to have a plan, set milestones, etc. I've been sticking with it regardless of the setbacks or challenges faced. I think you'll have this truck completed well within 8yrs though.
Will be watching this post as your build progresses. One last thing, please be safe while working inside the shell. Are the 2x4s set in place temporary? _________________ MonT3
67 Squareback
64 Squareback
63 Squareback
Engine rebuild
Trailer rebuild |
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ibjack Samba Member
Joined: February 06, 2002 Posts: 2105 Location: Imperial Beach CA
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Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 8:17 am Post subject: |
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A word of caution, over the years we have seen too many projects start out in grand fashion only to have the interest get lost on the giant tasks that it takes to redo these cars. It's really easy to strip these cars down but the amount of money that it takes to put them together plus the time and limited availability of parts can create a stand still. (Pedro and I figured out that for his project T34 it's going to cost $425 per wheel to get it where he wants to be and that's for a stock set up) I would say save everything that is or could be reused or even might be able to be reused until after the car is finished. Never tear apart anything un less you know tat parts are available to put it together again. Asks lots of questions, we are here to help you and support you FINISHING your project. Best of luck and you can do this. _________________ '68 Lotus White T34 automatic sunroof
'64 Manila Yellow T34
'65 Sea Blue Square Panel
the1500club.com
Shop Lacky at the T3/34 Factory, https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100094313902074 |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22410 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 9:40 am Post subject: |
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ibjack wrote: |
A word of caution, over the years we have seen too many projects start out in grand fashion only to have the interest get lost on the giant tasks that it takes to redo these cars. It's really easy to strip these cars down but the amount of money that it takes to put them together plus the time and limited availability of parts can create a stand still. (Pedro and I figured out that for his project T34 it's going to cost $425 per wheel to get it where he wants to be and that's for a stock set up) I would say save everything that is or could be reused or even might be able to be reused until after the car is finished. Never tear apart anything un less you know tat parts are available to put it together again. Asks lots of questions, we are here to help you and support you FINISHING your project. Best of luck and you can do this. |
And to expand on what Jack is saying, don't throw anything away, until after the new part is installed and working. With the quality of some parts these days, the older ones might be able to be refurbished and re-used (better quality parts). Just a heads up. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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MaximumFinishes Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2014 Posts: 100 Location: Donnelly,ID
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Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 9:57 am Post subject: |
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MonT3 wrote: |
Congrats on your progress. As for the wire harness, if you plan on getting a new one, try to remove what you have as completely as you can as someone else may need a section or pieces. Some folks may run into an engine bay fire and need the rear section to splice in. Happened to me a while back. just a thought.
Once you clean the rusted pieces off the pan/tunnel area, you'll have a good start point to get it back together. When I started on my rebuild I was told to have a plan, set milestones, etc. I've been sticking with it regardless of the setbacks or challenges faced. I think you'll have this truck completed well within 8yrs though.
Will be watching this post as your build progresses. One last thing, please be safe while working inside the shell. Are the 2x4s set in place temporary? |
Thanks Mont3. I figured I would keep things like the light cluster thingy and any other larger electrical components, and based on your advice I will try to keep as much of the wiring intact as possible. I don't know how I'm gonna pull all those wires through the drivers side floor channel area though. I do know I can't pull this through...
I'm definitely setting milestones. Easily attainable ones for now. I also do have a rough plan. For now it's to get the body bare and assess exactly how much welding etc. there is to do. That's the most daunting part of this whole thing for me...
but I ain't shook. I'm just gonna take my time and glean as much as I can from y'all. The rot in the front corner seems to be the most difficult part. The fenders will be tricky as well. I like Mike's idea of rolling a fresh chassis under it. I also need to remove that ghastly rear "window" area...
Note the mascot...
And yes, the 2x4s are just until I can shift it over to some stands. Possibly sawhorses? _________________ '64 Type 3 "Noback" - Frank
'68 Squareback - Charlie
'73 Westy - Mac
'98 Honda CR-V - Dee
'97 Subaru Impreza Outback - Dennis |
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MaximumFinishes Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2014 Posts: 100 Location: Donnelly,ID
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Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 10:09 am Post subject: |
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ibjack wrote: |
A word of caution, over the years we have seen too many projects start out in grand fashion only to have the interest get lost on the giant tasks that it takes to redo these cars. It's really easy to strip these cars down but the amount of money that it takes to put them together plus the time and limited availability of parts can create a stand still. (Pedro and I figured out that for his project T34 it's going to cost $425 per wheel to get it where he wants to be and that's for a stock set up) I would say save everything that is or could be reused or even might be able to be reused until after the car is finished. Never tear apart anything un less you know tat parts are available to put it together again. Asks lots of questions, we are here to help you and support you FINISHING your project. Best of luck and you can do this. |
Thanks Jack. I realize I'm still in the "easy" stage, and sometimes I look at Frank and think "what have I gotten myself into". But again, I ain't shook. I know I can get it done within my timeframe.
What kind of things should I not be tearing apart? My plans are to strip everything bare and start from naked. I'm keeping everything in the "parts shed" and even labeling lil baggies of nuts and bolts. What are some of the things that need to never be discarded EVER? _________________ '64 Type 3 "Noback" - Frank
'68 Squareback - Charlie
'73 Westy - Mac
'98 Honda CR-V - Dee
'97 Subaru Impreza Outback - Dennis |
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MonT3 Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2012 Posts: 1988 Location: South Dakota
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Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:34 am Post subject: |
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Remove the fuse box from the wiring and do what you can with it. I have to say you have some work ahead of you with that back-end. Could be easily replaced if you had a donor shell to take from. But as you mentioned assess where you are what you have to do. Ask questions. I have some pics on my thread on how I went about replacing pieces in the cargo area. If you had a good donor, you could replace your rear area as a whole. It'll save time and possibly some $$ in finding pieces. _________________ MonT3
67 Squareback
64 Squareback
63 Squareback
Engine rebuild
Trailer rebuild |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22410 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:44 am Post subject: |
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MaximumFinishes wrote: |
MonT3 wrote: |
Congrats on your progress. As for the wire harness, if you plan on getting a new one, try to remove what you have as completely as you can as someone else may need a section or pieces. Some folks may run into an engine bay fire and need the rear section to splice in. Happened to me a while back. just a thought.
Once you clean the rusted pieces off the pan/tunnel area, you'll have a good start point to get it back together. When I started on my rebuild I was told to have a plan, set milestones, etc. I've been sticking with it regardless of the setbacks or challenges faced. I think you'll have this truck completed well within 8yrs though.
Will be watching this post as your build progresses. One last thing, please be safe while working inside the shell. Are the 2x4s set in place temporary? |
Thanks Mont3. I figured I would keep things like the light cluster thingy and any other larger electrical components, and based on your advice I will try to keep as much of the wiring intact as possible. I don't know how I'm gonna pull all those wires through the drivers side floor channel area though. I do know I can't pull this through...
I'm definitely setting milestones. Easily attainable ones for now. I also do have a rough plan. For now it's to get the body bare and assess exactly how much welding etc. there is to do. That's the most daunting part of this whole thing for me...
but I ain't shook. I'm just gonna take my time and glean as much as I can from y'all. The rot in the front corner seems to be the most difficult part. The fenders will be tricky as well. I like Mike's idea of rolling a fresh chassis under it. I also need to remove that ghastly rear "window" area...
Note the mascot...
And yes, the 2x4s are just until I can shift it over to some stands. Possibly sawhorses? |
If you seperate the front wires from the fuse box, that entire harness can go out thru the front trunk.
As for the rest of the wires running inside the rocker, you're on your own.
And YES, I've seen worse rust.
It's ALL fixable. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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Mike Fisher Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006 Posts: 17968 Location: Eugene, OR
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Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:46 am Post subject: |
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I leave short pigtail wires on the fusebox,switches,relays to make them easier to rewire. I would buy the Gerson pans first since the chassis is a big job all by itself. _________________ https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold
Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey |
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Bobnotch Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 22410 Location: Kimball, Mi
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Posted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 12:10 pm Post subject: |
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Mike Fisher wrote: |
I leave short pigtail wires on the fusebox,switches,relays to make them easier to rewire. I would buy the Gerson pans first since the chassis is a big job all by itself. |
Maybe (and that's a big maybe) if I was just replacing the rear harness. But, you're assuming that the fuse box is wired correctly. Remember, the number 1 hack of PO's IS the wiring. Personally, I'd pull up the wiring diagram for the year (from the technical page above right corner), and go off it. That'll allow you to clean ALL of the terminals on the fuse box, by soaking it in something. Do a search for that, as there are some good ideas on products that work. _________________ Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote: |
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives." |
Tram wrote: |
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed". |
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