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Road Trip...Chicago to Valdosta GA
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force3g
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:10 pm    Post subject: Road Trip...Chicago to Valdosta GA Reply with quote

I have a company meeting in Valdosta, GA mid October. I would like to make a road trip of it in my bus with a couple of co-workers instead of flying. I would be starting the journey in Chicago. It is roughly 1K miles with a overnight in Nashville. I am just completing my restoration and I am a bit uneasy about this being the first time out. Lots of elevation to deal with. I have time to get some shorter distance trips in to evaluate my comfort level prior to the GA trip. I have done some homework and prep work on the bus...
new battery
completely replaced dash wiring
H4 headlights
new belt
new brushes
bench tested generator
new oil cooler seals
replaced transmission ground strap
points
plugs
plug wires
new brakes, calipers, drums turned
new rear axels, CV joints
clutch cable
throttle cable
new high grade fuel lines
moved fuel filter out of the engine bay
installed oil pressure gauge, oil temp, and volt meter
all engine tins in place with new engine seals
new Hankook R85R14C

What would you recommend to judge the "trip worthiness" of the bus? I did get a AAA membership with up to one 200 mile tow!
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levi20AE
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MAke it you daily for a week and take your co-workers out to lunch once or twice in the bus... their treat of course. After a week of driving you will have found most of the obvious things that need tending to. 1,000 miles is a ways but really the highway miles have always been the easiest. It's the stop and go with repeated starts that seem to find the real issues.
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would think a week of Chicago commute would test it sufficiently. A lot of us carry some spare parts, a handful of tools and a manual. I carry a spare:
Oil
belt
clutch cable
accelerator cable
Fuel pump, because it is amazing how often they fail.
points
Old but still good condenser
last seasons spark plugs
last seasons spark plug wires
cap and rotor

The spare parts don't cost that much and one can no longer drop by flaps to pick up these parts.
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wcfvw69 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 25, 2014 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You've done a good job hitting the big rocks that cause break downs. A few things that come to mind-

* Wheel bearings, front and rear? You just did the brakes. I'm assuming they were inspected and re-greased?

* Engine valve adjustment?

* You installed new tires. Has the front end been inspected for worn parts? Has it been lubed lately? How's the alignment?

* Fuel pump? What's the condition and what kind is it? My bus left me on the side of the road due to the previous owner installing the cheapest POS fuel pump. The lever rod backed out and it stopped working. It's in the landfill now. I'd carry a spare fuel pump along with a spare V-belt.

* Transmission oil? Has it been changed recently and is it full?

Other than those things I mentioned and if the engine is in good shape with good compression, I think you should be fine.

Sounds like a great trip. Have fun
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panic_fan
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im about 3 hours north of Valdosta. Something happens near Mcdonough GA hit me up! Im no super mechanic but I am close to i-75 and have a driveway. Nice time of year to do it. Enjoy the trip.
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jaydub808
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

list looks good you might consider teflon tape, liquid electrical tape and a carb rebuild kit. I have found myself wishing i had this stuck on the side of the road. But based on what you and others said you should be alright.

Happy tavels
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force3g
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great feedback. I will make it my daily driver as suggested. I have a 60 minute commute, half two lane highway and half three lane bumper to bumper grid lock!

I did replace all the wheel bearings. As far as the front end is concerned, that's a weak spot. The rubbers look like they are 44 years old. Steering has a bit more slop in it then I would like. The other weak spot is a very sloppy shifter. I was hoping that could wait until winter when I can pull the motor and trans to take care of it.

When I bought the bus in California in 2009 it had holes cut in the sides and those plastic air scopes on it. I pulled them off and welded sheet metal back in when I did the body work. I have always wondered if they were installed because there was a cooling issue with the bus?
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

force3g wrote:


I did replace all the wheel bearings. As far as the front end is concerned, that's a weak spot. The rubbers look like they are 44 years old. Steering has a bit more slop in it then I would like. The other weak spot is a very sloppy shifter. I was hoping that could wait until winter when I can pull the motor and trans to take care of it.



Hopefully you sprang for the good bearings vs. the Chinese crappy bearings at Autozone or other FLAPS. I had to have some bearings to get my bug rolling and bought some "very good" (salesman said) bearings at Autozone. They were made in China and within 3k miles were pitting up.

I'd get your front end inspected before your trip to make sure it's at least safe. Slop in the steering wheel can come from the steering gear, worn tie rods (safety issue), drag link, center pin and other areas. It could be only replacing a few worn parts that are not bad cost wise for the good ones, adjusting the steering gear and an alignment to make a big difference in the driving quality and safety. Certainly look at your steering damper to make sure it's not blown. I changed many of those parts when I bought my bus and you can see them in my link below.

As far as your sloppy shifter- Having just finished going thru mine on my 70' bus, chances are the majority of the slop is in the bushings at the rear shifter coupler right before the transmission. You can slip the bolt out that goes thru the coupler and only replace the bushings and use the original cage. It takes only a few minutes and it made a HUGE difference in tightening up my bus's shifting. The other bushing that wears is the one up front where the shifter connects to the shift rod. I'd wager the majority of your slop is from the rear rubber couplers. It would be worth looking under the bus and having someone rock the shifter in the bus. Again, on my bus, the two shift rod bushings in the middle that are inside the tunnel were fine and reading on here, most find the same.
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force3g
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2014 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great information. Thank you Bill!
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Jim Bear
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:12 am    Post subject: Athens, GA Here Reply with quote

I am in Athens, GA. let me know if you need anything.
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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm in Chicago, let me know if you need any help with last minute repairs. My advice is to put the bus on a repair Freeze. By this I mean, don't fix or tune anything up like two weeks before the trip.

Every time I do some kind of last minute repair or tune up item it leads to something else and I'm scrambling at the last minute.

So if 2 weeks before you are supposed to go and she's not ready or in perfect running order...make the go no go call then.
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm in the southern burbs of Chicago. You're more than welcome to drop by and I'll take a look at everything for you. I'll show you my travel kit and spare parts must. My bus is my 68' is my daily driver and I've taken it across country multiple times. Hell, I might even want to join you for the cruise!
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force3g
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Repacking wheel bearings and inspecting brakes. Do you see anything of concern here?
These are pics of my right front brakes. I did my brake job a couple of years ago but really no miles on them. That is a story for another thread.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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richparker
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good for you Force3g. I love road trippin in my bus. I've done 4 big trips already this year (2014) and I have one more planned in 3 weeks for now. As stated above the best thing you can do is drive your bus everyday. This is the only way you can get to know the ins and outs of it. AAA is key, that will put your mind at ease on the road. I carry most of the parts listed above as well as a spare alternator, valve adjustment screws, clevis pin, Bowden tube, coil, a good working jack, properly aired up spare (I check before I go, everytime), 3 repair manuals, lots of rags, some wire, a jar full of nuts and bolts, a multimeter, oil, WD-40, grease, paper towels, jumper cables, a 750 amp jumper box and a complete spare axle. Good luck and please update the thread while on the road. We love pics of road trips!

Brakes look good.

Heres a pic I posted on another thread. This is all the stuff I have under the rear jumper seat. I also have the cabinet under the bed full too.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Manfreds78bay wrote:
I'm in Chicago, let me know if you need any help with last minute repairs. My advice is to put the bus on a repair Freeze. By this I mean, don't fix or tune anything up like two weeks before the trip.

Every time I do some kind of last minute repair or tune up item it leads to something else and I'm scrambling at the last minute.

So if 2 weeks before you are supposed to go and she's not ready or in perfect running order...make the go no go call then.


Good advice. Also, take it out for a few shakedown cruises to make sure you feel like the bus is ready to go.
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andrewtf
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm in Champaign/Urbana... so if you gt 2 hours out and run unto trouble - hit me up.
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force3g
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A couple of post up...do you see any concerns with the brakes?
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It looks like you've prepped well. I concur with the driving it as much as you can between now and the trip.

As for elevation changes, it shouldn't be that bad if you're going Nashville to Chattanooga, and then on through Atlanta. The most elevation change you'll see is from Nashville to Chattanooga near Monteagle. It is a very pretty part of Tennessee.

I'm in Atlanta with a 69 Westy. Let me know if you need any help or restaurant recommendations. Some of my favorites are not far off the Interstate if you go thru the center of ATL.

Also, if you're going to do any camping in GA, let me know, I can recommend some spots on that as well.

Enjoy that cruise bro. Sounds like a good one. Take pics, come back and post them!
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:00 pm    Post subject: those brakes a few posts up Reply with quote

Are those star adjusters turning freely.

Does your bus have 'dust cover', rubber caps on the backing plates? Are they in place? Mine were missing and the adjuster hole was oval. I had to source replacements and use some larger plugs I had lying around.

How about that 'anti-squeal' grease - Does anybody actually use that stuff and where?
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't use the anti-squeal on bus drums, at least I haven't had to YET. The Jetta disc calipers needed it bad. Also, 4-wheel drum buses adjust their brakes through a hole in the outside of the drum. The rear dust caps are just for the pad inspection ports, and they are important to keep dust out.

On the left front, once you're speedometer cable is inserted and you're SURE you got the bearing preload/play set, a drop of RTV around the speedo cable before the clip goes on will help keep water out of the cable hole in the dust cap. Many people miss this (the factory used caulk) and they blame the bearing manufacturer for pits and rust stains on the bearing/race/spindle assembly.

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