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c21darrel
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Joined: January 22, 2009
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Location: San Dimas
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jpjohns
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Joined: May 03, 2014
Posts: 882
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
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 Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 3:59 pm Post subject: |
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Fuel pump out, still trying to figure out which one it is and whether it will work for a 1600. The rod is 4.25" though. I think I'll blast it with the homemade soda blaster and see how it turns out. Maybe I can sell it.
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-Jared
"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member) |
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c21darrel
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Joined: January 22, 2009
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Location: San Dimas
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jpjohns
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Joined: May 03, 2014
Posts: 882
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
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| Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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Cool thanks, I will. I think this is the correct rebuild kit? It's a 40hp kit from Wolfsburg West. Weird thing is I can't find a number. The only number I see is VW0764 stamped on it.
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-Jared
"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member) |
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Shawn
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Joined: January 16, 2007
Posts: 63
Location: York, PA
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| Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 10:28 am Post subject: |
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This is an awesome thread! I'll be watching this!  |
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sputnick60
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Joined: July 22, 2007
Posts: 3916
Location: In Molinya Orbit
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jpjohns
Samba Member
Joined: May 03, 2014
Posts: 882
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
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| Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 5:08 pm Post subject: |
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That tool is awesome, thanks. I just read an article on rebuilding the fuel pump...I don't think using the thumb will be as easy.
| Shawn wrote: |
| This is an awesome thread! I'll be watching this! |
I'll probably do a write up on rebuilding it with pictures.
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-Jared
"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member) |
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djway3474
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Joined: August 19, 2011
Posts: 2582
Location: The Real NDK So Cal
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| Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 6:08 pm Post subject: |
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After reading all the articles on rebuilding the pump, and being the po boy that I am, I came upon the brilliant plan of using the actual pump rod.
Get the pump assembled and ready to tighten down. Hand crank the engine until the pump rod is at the highest point. Bolt the pump down then tighten the screws for the diaphragm.
I have opened several of the pump kits and the rocker arm in all were pretty bad. One I was able to file so it had a smooth surface. The others, the worn original rocker was better. |
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jpjohns
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Joined: May 03, 2014
Posts: 882
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
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| Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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Isn't pushing down on the diaphragm just to get the shaft engaged in the rocker arm? I'll have to go back to the rebuild article.
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-Jared
"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member) |
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sputnick60
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Joined: July 22, 2007
Posts: 3916
Location: In Molinya Orbit
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| Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 5:34 am Post subject: |
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| jpjohns wrote: |
| Isn't pushing down on the diaphragm just to get the shaft engaged in the rocker arm? |
Nope. It pushes on the rocker so that it pulls down on the diaphragm preloading it to sit properly in position before you put on the top and tighten it all up. Sure do without it but it you'l fiddle about for twice as long and likely to have a pump that lasts half as long.
Choose wisely.
Nicholas
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'66 Karmann Ghia Cabriolet...
'65 Porsche 356C Coupe...
2005 Mecedes Benz C180 Kompressor Estate
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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jpjohns
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Joined: May 03, 2014
Posts: 882
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
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| Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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Damn Wolfsburg West ships fast! I ordered the gasket kit Tuesday and it arrived today. I can see already though, that some of the kit parts are going into the trash. The plastic spring holder...trash....stock metal one is way better. Paper gaskets, trash..the ones in the engine gasket kits are way better. Stock rocker pin is better and it has grooves in it already for the rocker to ride in.
I'll try to get the rebuild done in a few days and post it. Going to Hall-o-scream at Busch gardens this weekend!
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-Jared
"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member) |
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jpjohns
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Joined: May 03, 2014
Posts: 882
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
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| Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2014 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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Fuel pump looks a lot better after blasting it with the pain in the butt soda blaster.
Started draining the oil so we can drop the engine out and get it on a stand. Looks like chocolate milk. Nasty.
Yum...sludge!
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-Jared
"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member) |
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WooleyNelson
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Joined: July 13, 2012
Posts: 191
Location: Kokomo Indiana
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| Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 5:46 am Post subject: |
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"chocolate milk" appearance of oil usually indicates water in the oil.
(water cooled/head gasket experience!)
was this car stored outside in the rain for a period of time?
you may actually have rust inside your engine  
good luck with your restoration! |
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jpjohns
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Joined: May 03, 2014
Posts: 882
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
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| Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2014 9:30 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: |
| was this car stored outside in the rain for a period of time? |
Yep, for about 10 years in the woods. 
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-Jared
"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member) |
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57BLITZ
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Joined: June 12, 2012
Posts: 2385
Location: DEEK - U.S.A.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 12:45 am Post subject: |
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| WooleyNelson wrote: |
| "chocolate milk" appearance of oil usually indicates water in the oil. |
That was what I thought as soon as I saw those photos
| WooleyNelson wrote: |
you may actually have rust inside your engine |
Rust on the cam and lifters? Not a big deal.
Rust on the crank and con-rods? Not a big deal.
Those parts usually are rebuilt/reground/replaced.
The engine cases, on the other hand, need to be in decent condition to be re-used . . . replacement is expensive!
This is what I found in a D/P 1600 that I was hoping to rebuild . . . It was in a '68 Beetle that was setting in a field for ten years . . . I removed the drain plate and "chocolate milk" drained out. When I saw this, I just went and found another engine!
Those ARE holes in the bottom of engine case . . . the magnesium is simply corroded away!
I didn't even bother to disassemble it any farther . . . it's TOAST!
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jpjohns
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Joined: May 03, 2014
Posts: 882
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
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| Posted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 9:06 am Post subject: |
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Well so far mine doesn't look that bad on the bottom. Everything on the outside has looked decent up to now. I'll find out more once we get into the case. I'm hoping to not find anything of course, but if I do we are prepared to just start with a new case or possibly (more likely) just a stock 1600 rebuilt longblock.
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-Jared
"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member) |
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vstylist
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Joined: April 25, 2010
Posts: 106
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 12:04 am Post subject: |
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| Anything happening on the Ghia? I have been cheering for you, hope it's going ok. |
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jpjohns
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Joined: May 03, 2014
Posts: 882
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
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| Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 10:54 am Post subject: |
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Yep, still chugging at it. Been painting engine tins, steering column, etc. I have two weeks off for xmas so we have plenty of time to get the engine out and get the body sorted out before pulling it off. I've been ordering some suspension parts and after the holidays I will order a MIG welder.
It's getting there, it's just so damn cold in the garage 
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-Jared
"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member) |
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vstylist
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Joined: April 25, 2010
Posts: 106
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
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| Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 11:41 pm Post subject: |
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| Good, I have been wondering. Glad to see you're keeping on. Merry Christmas |
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jpjohns
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Joined: May 03, 2014
Posts: 882
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
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| Posted: Sun Mar 01, 2015 6:47 pm Post subject: |
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Finally got the engine out...looks rougher than it is but after getting all the shroud metal off I'll see how the case itself looks.
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-Jared
"Scrapyards are for quitters" - Beetlenut (a Samba member) |
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Looks like its a Pierberg from a 67 1500 motor. The pipes have a tendancy to popout w/o notice so swedge/epoxy/JB weld/safety wire it to the clamp once installed.
