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BlueTucker Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2014 Posts: 168 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 11:03 am Post subject: |
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Andrew A. Libby wrote: |
Setting an injection pump up really well from scratch without a test bench can certainly be done (I've done so many times) but there is a steep learning curve and changing one setting often affects others. |
Can this be done on or off the van? Do you know of a good tutorial? Or is this a sound/feel/smoke manual-guessing adjustment? |
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Waldi Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2014 Posts: 1752 Location: Germany
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 11:35 am Post subject: |
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First u have to get the engine running. Does the pump suck the fuel ? Try it before u install the pump using a pneumatic ratchet or something.
Which screws u didnt mark ? Pics ? |
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BlueTucker Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2014 Posts: 168 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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Waldi wrote: |
First u have to get the engine running. Does the pump suck the fuel ? Try it before u install the pump using a pneumatic ratchet or something.
Which screws u didnt mark ? Pics ? |
I will get pics when I get the pump body back and get it put together. I didn't make anything. Throttle, governor, min/max throttle adjustments. And the fuel enrichment in am sure is messed up. I may have heard he guys say they will put the min/max throttle at a benchmark area but that I will have to fine tune.
Besides the IP the engine ran on starter fluid (don't do that again).
The pump was sucking fluid slowly. Was coming out of the return line. Used the filter housing and held it above the engine while cranking. Blew on the hose to pressurize the pump. That's when I noticed tE fuel leak. And that prompted me to reseat the whole thing. I can only imagine that seal was the first of many. And I don't want to do this is the field while on a trip. |
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MsTaboo Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 4098 Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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Looking good, a tip though, get some dampers on the injection pipes from the pump to the injectors.
The vibration of diesel engines will crack those pipes! $$$ _________________ Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
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luVWagn Samba Member
Joined: February 21, 2008 Posts: 1340 Location: Snoqualmie (WA)
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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MsTaboo wrote: |
Looking good, a tip though, get some dampers on the injection pipes from the pump to the injectors.
The vibration of diesel engines will crack those pipes! $$$ |
Any pics available with clear "look here" instructions? I'd like to check my engine... _________________ '91 Syncro 16 Reimo Hightop Conversion, eTDI |
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jackbombay Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2007 Posts: 2723 Location: Eastern Idaho
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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luVWagn wrote: |
MsTaboo wrote: |
Looking good, a tip though, get some dampers on the injection pipes from the pump to the injectors.
The vibration of diesel engines will crack those pipes! $$$ |
Any pics available with clear "look here" instructions? I'd like to check my engine... |
There should be clamps with rubber padding that connect across all the lines, they just clamp the lines to each other. I'm not sure if there should be one or 2 for the JX though. _________________
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MsTaboo Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 4098 Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 9:22 pm Post subject: |
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luVWagn wrote: |
MsTaboo wrote: |
Looking good, a tip though, get some dampers on the injection pipes from the pump to the injectors.
The vibration of diesel engines will crack those pipes! $$$ |
Any pics available with clear "look here" instructions? I'd like to check my engine... |
Like these:
http://www.vwbusshop.de/epages/GuenzlClassicParts..../068130421
And as here:
http://www.vwbusshop.de/epages/GuenzlClassicParts....68130300JX
And these:
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/vw-diesel-pa...z-ahu.html
Generally you want one that clamps the main group of four and then another on each group of two.
Here is a shot of my engine, you can see I have a couple different styles of clamps, but they get the job done.
My engine originally didn't have any either and I was advised to get them. I got mine used, but as you see they're available new. _________________ Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
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BlueTucker Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2014 Posts: 168 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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Wow, clean motor! Thanks for the tip. Is yours a 1.9? |
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BlueTucker Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2014 Posts: 168 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 8:36 am Post subject: |
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Does anyone know what plugs into the fuel cutoff switch? Mine was a gas can converted to the jx and am unsure if there would have been a specific colored wire, or if I can wire something up. Is it switched 12v? Is 12v supplied while running or supplied when not running? I can make a switched circuit if needed. |
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MarkWard Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2005 Posts: 17155 Location: Retired South Florida
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:57 am Post subject: |
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I think I know what your asking. The gas can is throwing me off. Yes, the fuel cutoff switch at the pump should have power with the key in the cranking position as well as the run position. If this was a diesel originally, the wire must be there. If it was a gasser, the power to coil wire would work. I think you can find key on power at the glowplug relay, not 100% sure though
On the TDI's the ECU provides power to the fuel cut off switch. _________________ ☮️ |
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Waldi Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2014 Posts: 1752 Location: Germany
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 10:05 am Post subject: |
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The original diesel wire is black and supports the switch with 12v when ignition key is on. You should hear a "click" when u put 12v on the switch. |
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?Waldo? Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2006 Posts: 9752 Location: Where?
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 1:21 pm Post subject: |
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The correct wiring has a black wire coming from the glow plug relay to the stop solenoid. All the wiring to convert a van from gas to diesel is basically plug and play to the wires coming to the 'black box'. You can look at the '83 diesel wiring diagram in the Bentley and it shows how it should all be hooked up. Does your van have the glow plug relay added? |
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BlueTucker Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2014 Posts: 168 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:24 pm Post subject: |
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Andrew A. Libby wrote: |
The correct wiring has a black wire coming from the glow plug relay to the stop solenoid. All the wiring to convert a van from gas to diesel is basically plug and play to the wires coming to the 'black box'. You can look at the '83 diesel wiring diagram in the Bentley and it shows how it should all be hooked up. Does your van have the glow plug relay added? |
Cool. Yes the relay is there. Previous owners did not do a very good job with wiring. I will be cleaning it up. I wonder if that is why my injectors were not getting fuel? Probably. I don't think I had a wire hooked up to it. I will text when I get the pump together. Got a call that the pump was cleaned and ready. Will pick it up tomorrow and get it together and installed back onto the van. Anyone have access to a PDF of the Bentley wiring diagram? |
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BlueTucker Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2014 Posts: 168 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 11:40 pm Post subject: |
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Never mind. Found a diagram.
One question about wiring: where does the blue wire on the alternator (D-) go to? I imagine it is used for the tach? I have a 90amp alternator with b+, b+, d-, w outputs.
There is a power distributor of some kind that the power wire from alternator goes to. Has 4 posts. Power supply, starter power, aux power, ground. Not sure if this is what should be used? Looks aftermarket.
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Waldi Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2014 Posts: 1752 Location: Germany
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 3:29 am Post subject: |
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Blue goes to the instruments shows that the alternator is working. W is for revolution gauge.
The black box looks like a relais for two batteries.
Edit: You save your starter if you fill up the pump with clean fuel before starting. I would also change the filter and fill it up.
Injection timing at 0,9mm at upper dead.
Than u open the 4 injection lines on the head. After fuel comes there u close them. |
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?Waldo? Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2006 Posts: 9752 Location: Where?
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 8:06 am Post subject: |
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The pic shows the battery isolator that ASI used.
Timing on a 1.6TD should be 1.00-1.05mm. 0.9mm is retarded and will result in hard starting, poor power, poor fuel economy and high EGTs. |
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Waldi Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2014 Posts: 1752 Location: Germany
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 10:00 am Post subject: |
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Andrew A. Libby wrote: |
Timing on a 1.6TD should be 1.00-1.05mm. 0.9mm is retarded and will result in hard starting, poor power, poor fuel economy and high EGTs. |
I would have no problem if you write " I personal would time my engine at 1mm".
But what u are writing is, the engineers who build the JX and the other milion JX which are on the road are retarded. Every new JX starts hard, has poor power, bad economy and high EGTs.
This is just nonsense.
Tuning the JX with more turbo pressure and more fuel need 1mm, using plantoil even more, but a original JX drives fine with 0,9.
Maybe your overused JX was starting better with 1mm.
In a stock JX u will gain exactly nothing with 1mm except a harder and louder running.
But it is like all, everybody does what he wants, as long he dont step on the foot of the other.
Now u can go to german forums and write, hey, u are all retarded, because you are driving the original JX with 0,9 timing. your JX starts hard, has no power, bad economy and high EGTs. |
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?Waldo? Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2006 Posts: 9752 Location: Where?
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 10:16 am Post subject: |
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Look it up. 1.00-1.05mm is the factory timing spec for the JX. 0.90-0.95 is for the 1.6 non-turbo engines running 130 bar injectors. Actually, I am saying the engineers were correct with their timing spec. You are saying everyone should retard their engines from the factory spec.
I couldn't care less if you have a problem with me correcting your misinformation. It's not a personal. If you feel that correct technical information is a personal attack, you might want to stay away from technical forums. |
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Waldi Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2014 Posts: 1752 Location: Germany
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:00 am Post subject: |
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Andrew A. Libby wrote: |
Look it up. 1.00-1.05mm is the factory timing spec for the JX. 0.90-0.95 is for the 1.6 non-turbo engines running 130 bar injectors. Actually, I am saying the engineers were correct with their timing spec. You are saying everyone should retard their engines from the factory spec.
I couldn't care less if you have a problem with me correcting your misinformation. It's not a personal. If you feel that correct technical information is a personal attack, you might want to stay away from technical forums. |
Seems like u have other factory settings than we. |
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?Waldo? Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2006 Posts: 9752 Location: Where?
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Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2014 11:02 am Post subject: |
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Please post up a scan of the factory manual that shows 0.9mm as the timing spec for the JX. |
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