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1965 variant S
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68moose
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok. I'm confused. Does it attach to the "firewall" then?

Have any pictures?
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68vwfasty
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 8:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It attaches to the tunnel with two bolts on my 68. On each side of the hole that it fits through to connect the clutch cable.
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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It mounts to the tunnel and is, more or less, self-supporting.
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68moose
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh! Gotcha. That makes sense. Thanks again!

Now to get that damn pin out of the clutch pedal. I have it soaking.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ataraxia wrote:
It mounts to the tunnel and is, more or less, self-supporting.


Yes, it bolts onto the tunnel. Also keep in mind that the center main brake line runs in that area as well, and you might need to move the line around to get clearance for the pedal cluster to bolt on. This is partly why I like using a 2 piece brake line for the rear brakes, as you can install a longer line, and re-route it so it clears the cluster.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
ataraxia wrote:
It mounts to the tunnel and is, more or less, self-supporting.


Yes, it bolts onto the tunnel. Also keep in mind that the center main brake line runs in that area as well, and you might need to move the line around to get clearance for the pedal cluster to bolt on. This is partly why I like using a 2 piece brake line for the rear brakes, as you can install a longer line, and re-route it so it clears the cluster.


I've never had an issue with the brake line and the pedal cluster since it hovers over where the brake line runs (on the pan/tunnel edge), although I can certainly understand the need to be cautious of that brake line! I damaged mine somewhere and now have to replace it. A 2 piece line is MUCH easier to install.

There should be enough space under the cluster once mounted to clear the brake line and the seat release cable that lays on the pan. The later design is one huge advantage over the older 64 design with the pedal mounted to the floor pan-the seat release cables are easier to route!
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ataraxia wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
ataraxia wrote:
It mounts to the tunnel and is, more or less, self-supporting.


Yes, it bolts onto the tunnel. Also keep in mind that the center main brake line runs in that area as well, and you might need to move the line around to get clearance for the pedal cluster to bolt on. This is partly why I like using a 2 piece brake line for the rear brakes, as you can install a longer line, and re-route it so it clears the cluster.


I've never had an issue with the brake line and the pedal cluster since it hovers over where the brake line runs (on the pan/tunnel edge), although I can certainly understand the need to be cautious of that brake line! I damaged mine somewhere and now have to replace it. A 2 piece line is MUCH easier to install.

There should be enough space under the cluster once mounted to clear the brake line and the seat release cable that lays on the pan. The later design is one huge advantage over the older 64 design with the pedal mounted to the floor pan-the seat release cables are easier to route!


Yes, but since he's had the floor pans replaced, the pan lip and weld might be right where the brake line used to run. Rolling Eyes I've seen it before, and you have to pay attention to it when that work is being done.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
ataraxia wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:
ataraxia wrote:
It mounts to the tunnel and is, more or less, self-supporting.


Yes, it bolts onto the tunnel. Also keep in mind that the center main brake line runs in that area as well, and you might need to move the line around to get clearance for the pedal cluster to bolt on. This is partly why I like using a 2 piece brake line for the rear brakes, as you can install a longer line, and re-route it so it clears the cluster.


I've never had an issue with the brake line and the pedal cluster since it hovers over where the brake line runs (on the pan/tunnel edge), although I can certainly understand the need to be cautious of that brake line! I damaged mine somewhere and now have to replace it. A 2 piece line is MUCH easier to install.

There should be enough space under the cluster once mounted to clear the brake line and the seat release cable that lays on the pan. The later design is one huge advantage over the older 64 design with the pedal mounted to the floor pan-the seat release cables are easier to route!


Yes, but since he's had the floor pans replaced, the pan lip and weld might be right where the brake line used to run. Rolling Eyes I've seen it before, and you have to pay attention to it when that work is being done.


True story. There's no accounting for the work of others.
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68moose
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2014 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I appreciate the help and the heads up!

I'll likely replace the brake line anyway.
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68moose
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do I get the pin out of the clutch pedal? I'm beating the hell out of it with a hammer and punch. It's not budging. Is their a trick?
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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

68moose wrote:
How do I get the pin out of the clutch pedal? I'm beating the hell out of it with a hammer and punch. It's not budging. Is their a trick?


Heat, then hammer/punch.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 6:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ataraxia wrote:
68moose wrote:
How do I get the pin out of the clutch pedal? I'm beating the hell out of it with a hammer and punch. It's not budging. Is their a trick?


Heat, then hammer/punch.


Yup. That's how I get the pin out. You might need the heat to help seperate the clutch pedal from the clutch shaft too if you have a lot of rust right there.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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68moose
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 6:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok. Thanks again. Sounds like I was at least on the right track. I have it soaking in PB also.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

68moose wrote:
Ok. Thanks again. Sounds like I was at least on the right track. I have it soaking in PB also.


Before you reassemble the pedal cluster, measure the length of the clutch hooks too, as some are longer than others, and it can change the geometery of the clutch. You can end up with a nice super soft clutch pedal, or 1 that's hard as a rock if you don't get the combo right. I only mentin it, as someone just went thru this issue a month or so ago (Marigold?).
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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68moose
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does my 65 have the "wrap around" dash?
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bobnorman
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's an S then yes, it should.
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68moose
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is this what I need to convert my front to Disc?

http://www.jbugs.com/product/22-2880.html?Category_Code=vw-disc-brakes-conversions-kits-5-lug

In addition to a different reservoir and mild modification to the Type 3 spindle to fit the adapter?
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ataraxia
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 12:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

68moose wrote:
Is this what I need to convert my front to Disc?

http://www.jbugs.com/product/22-2880.html?Category_Code=vw-disc-brakes-conversions-kits-5-lug

In addition to a different reservoir and mild modification to the Type 3 spindle to fit the adapter?


Nope. You need the ball joint version.

When are you planning to install the front disc brakes? I've got an EMPI kit (with the modified spindles) that I'm going to remove from my 64 and sell it. It's got less than 100 miles on it. It's being replaced by an Airkewld kit that I bought last year.

PM me if you're interested.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ataraxia wrote:
68moose wrote:
Is this what I need to convert my front to Disc?

http://www.jbugs.com/product/22-2880.html?Category_Code=vw-disc-brakes-conversions-kits-5-lug

In addition to a different reservoir and mild modification to the Type 3 spindle to fit the adapter?


Nope. You need the ball joint version.

When are you planning to install the front disc brakes? I've got an EMPI kit (with the modified spindles) that I'm going to remove from my 64 and sell it. It's got less than 100 miles on it.

PM me if you're interested.


Yup, you'd need the ball joint version, AND a set of type 3 disc brake spindles to modify, along with 1 of Chris's (flyinglow) centering spacer.

I bought my wide 5 disc kit from SoCal Imports, and had to modify the spindle (after I purcased a set), along with getting the centering spacer from Chris (man that spacer made the job easier), before I could put it together. I should mention, that it's a little more than a "mild modification" of the spindle. Shocked

IF you can get a set already done, that'll save you time and money in the long run. Might be worth the wait. Wink
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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View user's profile Send private message Gallery Classifieds Feedback
68moose
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With my new pans I have no reference to where the pedal stop should be.

I've searched but haven't really found a good reference on where on the pan it needs to go.

Any advice?
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