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How to lower a Bus and all lowering questions
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wrenchnride247
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

electronictofu wrote:
4.5" Drop welded spindles, narrowed adjustable WW beam. I am trying to adjust things to get it about 2" higher, as the front tires are hitting the floor.

The top adjuster was lower flush 1-2 notches originally, I have the wheels dangling and jacked up the bus from the beam. Hard to budge it more but feel like it needs to go another notch or two. I've pushed the adjuster upword towards the floor about 2 notches so far.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The lower adjuster, I can't even budge the bolt. I've tried it with the bus jacked up from the beam, and the wheels dangling, also with the bus jacked up and the wheels/ torsion arms pushed upwards with another small jack no luck. Currently as it came, is as shown. I assume I move this adjuster down towards the ground? same notches as the top adjuster?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.




Any tips? Not sure how to adjust, where to adjust....


To raise it, turn adjusters towards ground. You need to get the jamb nut loose, and keep the bolt tight. The bolt holds the leaf stack and inner carrier together.
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glifahrenheitcameron
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kingodirtp3 wrote:
I didn't have to do anything with my ebrakes, they bolted right up and work fine. so yep, 68 types 3 drum to drum and offset plates and swap out the nose cone.


Sounds good, but the bolt pattern on the drums of a 68 type 3 is still the 4 lug pattern. I really want to refrain from using adapters, so what would I need to do here in order to get the wide five pattern? Would I still be able to direct swap some thing drums or will that not apply anymore?
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glifahrenheitcameron wrote:
kingodirtp3 wrote:
I didn't have to do anything with my ebrakes, they bolted right up and work fine. so yep, 68 types 3 drum to drum and offset plates and swap out the nose cone.


Sounds good, but the bolt pattern on the drums of a 68 type 3 is still the 4 lug pattern. I really want to refrain from using adapters, so what would I need to do here in order to get the wide five pattern? Would I still be able to direct swap some thing drums or will that not apply anymore?


Thing drums will be a direct swap to your type 1 brakes. But you still have type 1 brakes, which are inferior to the larger type 3 brakes.

Adapters and better brakes/easier parts availability, or expensive thing drums and beetle brakes. Your choice.
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kingodirtp3
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 30, 2014 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the type 1 and thing brakes wont stop you as well as the type 3 set up. if you don't want to use a wide 5 10mm spacer and long studs or the 4 to 5 lug adapter then you'll need to modify the stock rim to get the tire off the spring plate, or run tall skinny tires.
I had my 14x5 stock rims sent to a company called custom and commercial. they widened all 4 to 6 inches and took .5 inches out of the rear rims backspacing, making them 4 inch backspaced instead of the stock 4.5. they fit perfect and look great, though I shoulda had them take some backspacing out of the front too to clear the dog legs. $155 each wheel including white powder coating. running 185/55/14 fr 215/65/14 rr.
or just use a rim with less back spacing. beetle, or after market.
but with a stock-width beam up front the rim you choose will need to have 4.5inches of backspacing or more to minimize rubbing the doglegs.
the rear rims need around 4inches to be between the springplate and fender well.
if you get after market rims then you'll need a 4 inch narrowed beam.
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glifahrenheitcameron
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like i've gathered enough info. Thanks everyone Smile
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brese73
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:56 am    Post subject: flip spindles Reply with quote

posted this a few months ago. I was wondering why my front tires were wearing out after installing flipped spindles. Initially I thought the number of shims and the toe-in were the culprits, but turns out I had the king pins installed backwards. This threw off the camber significantly because there is an offset on the spindles when mounting to the trailing arms. SOOO make sure you install your flipped spindles correctly with the upper offset facing the trailing arm. This also solve my swaying issue although I do have some new shocks on the way. Love the way my bus drives and handles now!
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mobidic01
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 4:07 pm    Post subject: IRS conversion for Split Bus Reply with quote

Hi! Does somebody know if there is any kit (Bus Boy or so?) to make an IRS conversion on a Split Bus without cutting in the frame? Do you have details about it like pictures or other advice? Thanks!
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DerrickfromNC1
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2014 5:03 pm    Post subject: Re: IRS conversion for Split Bus Reply with quote

mobidic01 wrote:
Hi! Does somebody know if there is any kit (Bus Boy or so?) to make an IRS conversion on a Split Bus without cutting in the frame? Do you have details about it like pictures or other advice? Thanks!


I went with the bolton kit from WagonsWest:

http://www.wagenswest.com/partstore/index.php/bus-...7-bus.html

I got their adjustable springplates and 1" longer axles from Wolfgang. The only fabbing required will be mounting rear shocks since upper and lower mounts no longer line up. Also get a new bus trans nose cone from Rancho to install on your beetle IRS trans.
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demon1018
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the irs brackets to convert a swing axle bug. Just opened them up a little I didn't have to cut into the frame horns but I made my axles longer. I cut my stock spring plates to fit.
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DerrickfromNC1
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

demon1018 wrote:
I used the irs brackets to convert a swing axle bug. Just opened them up a little I didn't have to cut into the frame horns but I made my axles longer. I cut my stock spring plates to fit.


Got any pixs of this conversion? Did it require longer axles? Rather than cutting your springplates could you use IRS springplates?

Been wanting to do a bolt-on IRS conversion to my 67 beetle.

Thanks
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demon1018
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well bus torsion bars are bigger than bug ones. If your talking about converting a bug you could probably use them but you would also have to change the torsion bars to the longer ones. I cut my axles and welded in a piece then clam shelled a thick wall tube
around the cut. Been like this for 2 years. No problem at all but you have to make them strait! I have pics on my pc. I don't really have any good pics of this part in my build thread on here. There's some pretty good info on steering box scrapers website
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glifahrenheitcameron
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I came across a 64 beetle rear end....what all would need to be done to swap this into my split bus?
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

glifahrenheitcameron wrote:
I came across a 64 beetle rear end....what all would need to be done to swap this into my split bus?


Start at the beginning of this thread, and read on through. Much of what is in here is fluff, but the information you will glean by reading will give you all you need to know. After that, if you still have questions, post them here and we will do what we can to help.
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64 ragtop volks
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

If you want to run short axels,you will need to get custom rims made to get the backspacing correct or run ridiculously thick wheel spacers so the rims and tires clear your spring plates.
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glifahrenheitcameron
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have found recommended tires sizes for stock 15s on a super slammed bus.....

But I am curious to know what tire size should be ran on a bus with stock 14s that is super low.

Anyone? The search bar is broken :/
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6sixTinBox
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

People were running Toyo 195/45/14 but they aren't being manufactured anymore. I lucked out and found two from different sources in the U.S. and I was told they were the last ones. It took me about two weeks to search high and low to source them. I found some on Ebay by Falken but be prepared to pay an arm and a leg for them. They are pretty common in the U.K. since they run them on old school VW Golfs. Hope that helps. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=273571
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kingodirtp3
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 04, 2014 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found 155/65/14 from federal tires and a few other manufactures. they fit great on a stock 14x5 bus rim. im running 185/55/14 federals on 14x6 in bus rims which feel better, wider tire has more traction. if you go to the federal tire site they have a coupel more tires that are smaller in diameter.
here's a tire size calculator you can use to compare sizes, http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
here's the federal site,
http://www.federaltire.com/en/products_detail.php?class=PCR&products_detail_sn=12
they have a 155/55/14 which is only 20.5 inches tall.
with my tires at 22 inches tall ill hit the steering box if im not careful.
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G-wood Todd
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a question about trailing arms.

I am working on a 64 and I had gradually aquired all the necessary bits to lower the bus including 64-67 flipped spindles. As I started into the front end (and confirming with the po) it appears that a 63 beam, 63 trailing arms, 63 spindles and 64 and later brakes were placed in my 64.

So the dilemma that I now face is that I have a set of 64-67 flipped spindles that will not fit on the earlier trailing arms.

My question is can the early trailing arms be machined and opened up to use the 64-67 linkpins to where I can use the 64-67 flipped spindles that I already have.

It seems like an easy solution would be to replace the early trailing arms with later ones but I am not finding any later ones available. Another solution would be to have the 63 spindles flipped but I would perfer to leave them stock if I wish to return it back to stock hight.

Sorry for the rambling but thats where I'm at and could use some ideas on where to go from here. Thanks in advance for the help.
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cdennisg
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

G-wood Todd wrote:
I have a question about trailing arms.

I am working on a 64 and I had gradually aquired all the necessary bits to lower the bus including 64-67 flipped spindles. As I started into the front end (and confirming with the po) it appears that a 63 beam, 63 trailing arms, 63 spindles and 64 and later brakes were placed in my 64.

So the dilemma that I now face is that I have a set of 64-67 flipped spindles that will not fit on the earlier trailing arms.

My question is can the early trailing arms be machined and opened up to use the 64-67 linkpins to where I can use the 64-67 flipped spindles that I already have.

It seems like an easy solution would be to replace the early trailing arms with later ones but I am not finding any later ones available. Another solution would be to have the 63 spindles flipped but I would perfer to leave them stock if I wish to return it back to stock hight.

Sorry for the rambling but thats where I'm at and could use some ideas on where to go from here. Thanks in advance for the help.


I wish I knew the answer definitively, but I have not had that exact setup so this is just a semi-educated guess. I am pretty sure that the later trailing arms with the 22mm (?) link pins will fit into your 63 beam. If so, all you need is a set of 64-67 trailing arms and you are in business.

If anyone on here see this and says to themselves "that guy is full of shit", please correct me. I have a gut feeling I am right, but then again I keep thinking the Jets are going to win it all.
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G-wood Todd
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2014 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the response. It helps expand my narrow thinking. That thought came to mind as well if the early and late trailing arms have the same bushing/bearing diameter. I am using a new narrow beam so I will need something to fit into that setup rather than the 63 beam. It looks like later trailing arms are going to be the best solution. Thanks again.
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