Beam/Shock Help

LightShow · Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 6:09 pm Post subject: Beam/Shock Help

After countless issues and money spent to get my new rims (3 years in the search) mounted, I ran into another issue that I need help with.

I went with a link pin disc brake/drop spindle + with the offset of the new rims its pushing them out 1/2" of the fender (not including tire width).

Known options
1) shockless beam (i'd go with a 6" which places the rim center of the fender but research gives me an uneasy feeling of dropping $500 and having a "scary/unsafe ride"
2) raise body 2" and get 4" narrow beam; body raise will allow me to clear fiberglass and gas tank. But rather not raise the body.

In search of options
1) 2"-4" narrow with bent out shock towers so top mount is in oem location.
2) 2"-4" narrow with shock towers bent towards rear (shock needs to be 2" lower than oem).

Anyone have any other suggestions, know how to get one of the "in search options", or anyone chime in about them running shockless in a buggy.

The buggy is not a daily driver and is mainly kept under 40mph. However, I would like to take it to work (60 miles round trip at 60-75mph).

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EVfun · Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:14 pm Post subject:

I'd suggest a 4 inch narrowed beam with the shock towers bent to the rear. I'm running without shocks and it is just fine around town, but I notice the bounce at freeway speeds. The shock towers have to be cut to use a K&L beam on a Mini-T.

Another option may be shortened towers and short street rod shocks. The total shock movement is reduced by the forward location of the shock mount on the trailing arm. Early Bugs (pre- '52?) used a shorter shock, and likely something shorter still could be used for a street Buggy. I have a set of shocks with a 7.5 inch compressed length and a 10.5 inch extended length that I plan to mount on the front of my Mini-T over the winter.
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LightShow · Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 7:47 pm Post subject:

looking at the 4" cip1 sells I went out and remeasured. Since the narrowed uses the 1/4 steel vs the large oem shock towers, I have roughly 1.5" on each side before I hit fiberglass. Which then, I'm fairly certain I could shave some of the body and/or hopefully bend out the towers. I thought I came across someone that makes a 4" with a slight offset tower but can't seem to locate it.

For the last 3 years I've been running really worn out king pin and low enough to ride on the bump stop (was worried about cutting it off). Can't imagine the ride getting any worse but with very little travel it handled like a dream, even with poor king pins.

Dale M. · Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 8:12 pm Post subject:

Let tire and wheel run outside fender and drive it like you stole it.... That is what I did...

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

BL3Manx · Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 8:17 pm Post subject:

What are the rims?

LightShow · Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 8:24 pm Post subject:

rims are ansen slot style. Unsure if my rears are true ansen but the fronts are shelby cali 500 15x5.5.

It seems I over complicated this.. remeasuring for the airkewld 4" w/shock, I would have to cut about 1/2" each side of the fiberglass (towards gas tank) and refiberglass. Not a huge deal.

BL3Manx · Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 8:29 pm Post subject:

Nice. Are you running wheel adapters? What kind of front brakes?

LightShow · Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2014 8:58 pm Post subject:

no adapters. Went with disc brakes which was a spendy experience... rims were suppose to be 5 on 5 pattern. so ordered custom drilled rotors and turned out it was actually 5 on 130mm. The rears worked out nice with custom drilled drums 5 on 5.

GS guy · Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 9:16 am Post subject:

Looks like you might need a custom solution? The least expensive would be to modify your existing beam (and springs and tie rods, etc). Lots of work and time, but if the beam is solid that should be the least expensive route.

The alternate is a custom beam. You'd have to go to a manufacturer for that (not a retailer like CIP1). A quick google search turned up this link:
http://www.valleyautowerks.com/apps/webstore/

Looks like a quality set-up. I'd imagine they would work with you to get exactly what you want for a bolt-on solution, with the right width, shock tower configuration, etc. Careful measuring on your part would be critical to success!
Jeff
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70's vintage Deserter GS buggy - undergoing transformation to Super GS!

VOLKSWAGNUT · Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 5:44 pm Post subject:

I have to ask...why not use it as it is?
Tires slightly outside the fender is more than acceptable and enencouraged on a Buggy.
I run fat slots...15x7's on the front and 15x10's on the back.....

.
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manxdavid · Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 12:26 pm Post subject:

EVfun · Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 5:14 pm Post subject:

Perhaps he has to pass an inspection.

I guess the rate increase is based on the reduction in length. How long is the twisting area stock? I know a section at each end, and one in the middle don't twist.

I'm thinking about some of the same issues as the OP. Not the disc brakes, but tucking under the fender, suitable shocks, and the value of K&L bump stops.
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SpitnSpatz · Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2014 7:17 pm Post subject:

manxdavid · Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 8:57 am Post subject:

Will your steering lock-to-lock not be seriously reduced with a narowed beam? The insides of my tires run pretty close to my body tub with a stock width beam when on full lock.

SpitnSpatz · Posted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 5:07 pm Post subject:

In my case... no. I am running a pair of 500x16 tires up front so they should be too skinny to hit anything... I hope!!


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