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pearlypoo
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2014
Posts: 19
Location: Bay Area, California
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 Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 10:03 am Post subject: |
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| SBD wrote: |
| scrivyscriv wrote: |
The car looks pretty complete, actually.
FYI, the fuel line off the fuel pump to the carburetor goes straight up to the carb, it's not supposed to wrap around like it does. The general consensus here is that a fuel line isn't really a good idea in the engine compartment... It's bettet to put it by the transmission where the steel fuel line exits the frame horn.
Although the heat exchanger dumps heat there... Not really sure why VW put the fuel line RIGHT THERE by all that heat. |
...The general consensus here is that a fuel filter isn't really a good idea in the engine compartment...
Fixed it for ya'.  |
I know that the fuel filter shouldn't be there. I haven't had a chance to look for where the 2nd filter was installed. Maybe I'll have some time to do that today since I'm off work.
And if the fuel line itself needs to be moved, is that a simple fix, like do I just need to adjust that one piece by the carb, or is it something I would need to lift the car off the ground for so that I could get under it? Since I'm mostly doing this on my own, lifting it off the ground and getting under could take some time. |
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NCdad
Samba Member
Joined: August 28, 2008
Posts: 1525
Location: South Carolina
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| Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 11:33 am Post subject: |
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Some people put the fuel filter under the fuel tank just before going to the metal line going into the tunnel.
Others put it in line by the transaxle where the metal line exits the tunnel.
Here is an older pic of mine in the transaxle area.
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Aussiebug
Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2002
Posts: 2162
Location: Adelaide Australia
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| Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2014 12:20 am Post subject: |
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Pearlypoo,
OK so you have a 34PICT/3 carb. Then the thing I thought was a rubber plug low on the back of the carb IS a vacuum port, and that's where the retard line should be connected, rather than the port on the left inlet manifold end piece.
I haven't seen a vacuum port there on a twin port manifold before - semi-auto vacuum/clutch point...anyone?
I'd move that line to the carb and plug the port on the inlet manifold. Having it so far out on the left side of the inlet manifold could well result in variations in the amount of retard being pulled in at idle, since that port will be seeing intermittent vacuum - mostly from the left side cylinders. Attaching it to the port low on the rear of the carb will ensure it's seeing vacuum evenly from all 4 cylinders at idle, for a more consistent idle timing setting.
That carb/distributor combo should be set at 5ATDC using a timing light at 850-900 idle with both vacuum lines connected. For a quick test of the vacuum diaphragm itself, take the top off the distributor and look at the points plate as you suck on one line then the other. The retard line should push the arm into the distributor a small amount - only about 6 degrees degrees movement of the points plate from it's rest point, and the advance line should pull the arm out - roughly 5 degrees rotation of the points plate from it's rest point.
(For those thinking those numbers don't look right...the rest (engine off) position for a correctly setup DVDA is about 7.5BTDC so the retard line must pull in about 12 degrees retard (6 degrees points plate movement) and the advance vacuum line adds a max of 10 degrees which is 5 degrees movement from the rest point - the rest of the advance comes from the centrifugal component - about 15-16 degrees points plate movement from that).
Re the fuel filter. Many folks don't like to see them in the engine compartment at all, and has been said, hide them near the gearbox or under the fuel tank. Both positions work OK, but the filter is then hard to see and easy to forget. I prefer to put them in the engine bay, off to the left side if possible and standing upright so they tell you when they need changing (when the fuel climbs up to the top of the filter paper...a new filter should look almost empty). It doesn't even need hose clamps if you use the correct 5.5mm cotton covered fuel line, since placing it before the pump means it's not under pressure. I know I'll get arguments there, but I haven't had an engine fire in 43 years of driving bugs.
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Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
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pearlypoo
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2014
Posts: 19
Location: Bay Area, California
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| Posted: Tue Jul 29, 2014 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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Haven't been able to do much these past couple weeks since work has been crazy.
I ordered new paper heater hoses and thought I did the metric conversions right but the diameter on the ones I ordered ended up being way too wide, so the hunt continues. I got the new air/oil filter and got it cleaned up but haven't had the chance to put it in.
My brother is coming over tomorrow so I'm hoping we'll work on the distributor, and move the fuel filter off to the side. |
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pearlypoo
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2014
Posts: 19
Location: Bay Area, California
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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Still looking around for the missing engine tin pieces and the hoses for the front.
Hopefully tomorrow after work I'll be able to do some more in depth searching and maybe put the air filter on and connect it to the oil cap.
But I really want to get this fixed because I'm tired of walking everywhere in this California heat haha |
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sb001
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 4:20 pm Post subject: |
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| Aussiebug wrote: |
| I haven't seen a vacuum port there on a twin port manifold before - semi-auto vacuum/clutch point...anyone? |
I too would like to know what's up with that vacuum port on the manifold. Not normal vacuum supply for any autostick I've seen...
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Brian
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Joined: May 28, 2012
Posts: 8340
Location: Oceanside
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| Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2014 9:13 pm Post subject: |
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Did not read a single post:
Looks like you're missing the front tin.
Also, I have a couple manifolds with the vac port on them, I know late bus use them for the booster right?
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pearlypoo
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2014
Posts: 19
Location: Bay Area, California
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| Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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I know I'm missing some engine tin, which you'd know if you had read the posts.
My brother stopped by a few days ago and set the pulley to TDC, which I could have done, it looked super easy. I'll read back through here and see if it needs to be at a certain degree before or after TDC at rest and adjust it as soon as I get a protractor or something to measure or the degrees (only TDC is marked on my pulley).
I plan to move the distributor plugs today, but am wondering if there's anything that I need to do before doing so, like unhook my distributor cap or anything.
Also I'm in the process of buying a timing light, it's actually pulled up in a different tab as I'm writing this out |
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glutamodo 
The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004
Posts: 26320
Location: Douglas, WY
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| Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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| You mean the spark plugs? No, you don't need to do anything special beforehand. |
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pearlypoo
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2014
Posts: 19
Location: Bay Area, California
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| Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 2:29 pm Post subject: |
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| Aussiebug wrote: |
| The correct oval cleaner has it on the right side, and a paper tube descends from that to a (missing) L shaped pipe sticking up through that open breastplate hole. The bottom of that L pipe is close to the right heads, so it sees warm air soon after you start the engine. |
I got the correct cleaner (finally). Cannot for the life of me find the L shaped pipe you're talking about. When I look for heater parts I only find left and right heater boxes, and when I look through tinware I just find that cover part that has the holes for the heater tubes in it.
| Aussiebug wrote: |
Hopefully your cooling flaps are still inside the manifold - they are important as they are connected to the thermostat mounted under the right cylinders, to provide a fast warm-up and better cabin heat in winter.
I see from the pic of your engine that there is a small piece of tinware missing from under the right side (meaning the left side is probably missing too). It's about 3 inches long by about 1 inch deep and sits up against the cylinder fins - attached to the tinware above via those two open slotted holes. Without these small pieces, the cooling air spills out before it's travelled through all the fins, so the engine runs hotter than it should. The "road tube" shown in that pic is as stated in a posts above - it was used on the earlier engines as a final drain for the crankcase, but it should have a rubber tube with a special "crimped" end (one way valve) which allows oil to flow out, but no air to get in.
Cant see them, but does your car have the underside plenum pieces of tinware (sometimes called sled pieces)? These turn the used cooling air out the back of the car. If they are missing the used cooling air just spills down under the car where it meets the turbulent high pressure air under all moving cars, which disrupts engine cooling somewhat. |
If you can find pics of these things then I can see if my bug has them or not |
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57BLITZ
Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2012
Posts: 2385
Location: DEEK - U.S.A.
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| Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 3:37 pm Post subject: |
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| pearlypoo wrote: |
Cannot for the life of me find the L shaped pipe you're talking about.
If you can find pics of these things then I can see if my bug has them or not. |
I found these photos in The Samba Gallery . . .
The engine in this photo is later than yours, and is fuel injected, so it looks different than what you have, however, the part at the bottom left of the photo is what you are missing. Only the very end of it would be visible with the hose off since it bolts on underneath the rear "breast tin".
Another view
IMO, your engine tune problems will not be affected because it is missing . . . read; you can add it when you find one, but don't knock yourself out looking for one. In the mean time, after you get the engine running properly, you can temporarily patch the hole in the rear "breast tin". As you should know, all the tin around the engine keeps the HOT air from under the engine from entering the cooling system, so you want it ALL in place and any holes closed up.
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pearlypoo
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2014
Posts: 19
Location: Bay Area, California
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| Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 6:20 pm Post subject: Update |
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Ok, not much work in the past few weeks, but since I haven't posted since August I figured I should update.
Here's the engine; I got that missing engine tin piece.
With the hose from the filter to the tin piece:
So really, I think I just need:
*new spark plug wires due to a mishap where I was not thinking and broke mine.
*a hose to go from the filter to the oil cap
*new advance/retard lines for dist. Advance isn't long enough to loop around and just sags there. Retard is too big to fit onto the carb, and could maybe be a little longer.
*I need to get a plug for the opening on the fan shroud. I moved the plug that was on the carb to where the retard line was attached on the inlet manifold, but I might need to get a new one eventually.
* I'll most likely need to do the timing.
Another thing, and I don't have a pic, is that I also replaced the hoses in the trunk that were all duct taped and ripped.
But while I was doing that I found a thin hose that seems to go no where..
I followed it up towards the dash and it just disappeared into the mess of wires
Any ideas as to what this might be? |
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SBD
Samba Member
Joined: October 24, 2012
Posts: 3269
Location: SOUTH DAKOTA
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| Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2014 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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That might be your window washer hose. If it is, the disappearing end would go into your wiper switch. The end you have in the trunk would hook up to the washer fluid bottle.
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thomas.
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Joined: July 31, 2010
Posts: 1291
Location: South West (Pa.)
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pearlypoo
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2014
Posts: 19
Location: Bay Area, California
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| Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 12:11 pm Post subject: |
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Link
Put in all the parts, changed the oil, filled the gas tank... and it's worse than when I started working on it. Won't even start now.
Any ideas? |
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jlex
Samba Member
Joined: January 23, 2009
Posts: 2902
Location: NW Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:01 pm Post subject: |
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Sounds like your battery is giving up. If it won't give you a good crank, it won't start. I'd hook up jumper cables to a running car, then crank it.
If it still won't start, determine if its fuel related or spark related.
Quick fuel test: pour a little into the carb (if you haven't already flooded it) and see if it tries to start (or use a shot of starting fluid) but don't overdo the fluid as it's not good for the engine. If it tries to run for a while, investigate the fuel flow issue.
If it doesn't start w/ the above, suspect spark. Take off one of the plug wires & put in a spare plug. Hold the plug to the engine to ground it while someone cranks the engine. Do you see a healthy spark? Dont shock yourself! You should or else you have an electrical problem.
Get methodical to run the problem down.
Read this: http://www.vw-resource.com/car_wont_start.html
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'70 std. "Elsie"
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Cusser
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Joined: October 02, 2006
Posts: 31373
Location: Hot Arizona
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| Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:01 pm Post subject: |
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| pearlypoo wrote: |
| [youtube]. Won't even start now. Any ideas? |
Use aerosol starting fluid into the air cleaner intake, floor pedal and see if it starts for even a few seconds. Do a few times. If it starts runs, then flooded or fuel issue.
If it doesn't start at all, then likely an ignition issue, like did you screw up the spark plug wires when you replaced them. That would be my first wild guess, going from reading here how many swear they've got the wires on right, but upon 4th re-check find out they have them wrong. That's why I suspect that, and only wire on coil negative terminal should be the green wire to distributor (unless you have a tachometer).
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jlex
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Joined: January 23, 2009
Posts: 2902
Location: NW Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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Also, if you've been fiddling around with the plug wires, you may have them mixed up (a very common thing to do... we've all done it).
Check out the wiring: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=4075878
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jlex.
'70 std. "Elsie"
'88 Carrera |
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jlex
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Joined: January 23, 2009
Posts: 2902
Location: NW Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:07 pm Post subject: |
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Cusser: ha... I guess great minds think alike!
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'70 std. "Elsie"
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pearlypoo
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2014
Posts: 19
Location: Bay Area, California
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| Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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When I replaced the wires I did it one at a time, so I'm pretty sure I didn't mix them up.
I went to go check the battery out, and was expecting an old one to be in there, and I found one from NAPA (the car parts store). I took it out anyway because I want to clean the terminals (? the part on the car that connects to the battery). The battery itself looks fine, and I could hear fluid in there still swishing when I carried it into the house. There's just a little corrosion on the positive side I'm going to clean off, but the parts on the car are disgusting. I'm going to get a brush hopefully today and clean them off.
But when I took the seat out to get the battery, I noticed this:
not even attached to anything and the others have 2 little circular pieces on them when this one only has one. Is this important?
I feel like every time I go to fix something or check something out on this car I find another thing that isn't attached or needs to be fixed.
If cleaning off the battery doesn't work, I'll check the spark plugs, I could have damaged them when I switched the wires out.
Also, what's a good thing to put under the seat so that all that hay or whatever it is doesn't fall off the seat and into the batter compartment? |
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