The journey of a new 1970 Westfalia owner. The fixes begin.

[wcfvw69]

I finally got my parts in that I was waiting for in order to get the fuel tank back in. I was waiting for the sending unit gasket. Mine was the original and it was hard and cracked. I had found the sending unit tube had fallen off the sending unit. I installed it back on the sender and the plastic sender seems to slide up and down ok. The two thin wires were not broken either. I hope it works correctly.

I washed out the gas tank compartment of dirt and then re-glued the seal around the fuel spout area.

I bought the fuel line replacement kit from German Supply. It had all the hoses, clamps and new fuel spout and copper screen to reseal your tank and get rid of fuel smells. What he needs to add to the kit is the fuel sending unit seal.

When I removed the original hose, the hose clamp over the fill pipe wouldn't come out of the side of the bus. I stuck a small philips inside that compartment to unscrew that clamp before being able to slide the whole assy out. Going back in, I realized that the tan seal/gasket you see in this photo comes off. This reveals a slot in the body for you to be able to insert the steel fill tube with the fuel line and that clamp installed. DUH!!

I slid the tank back in and connected the big fill hose to the tank. I then tightened the hose clamp on the tank down snug. I then installed the fuel tank cover and replaced the rear rubber engine compartment seal.
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Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
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**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
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[wcfvw69]

I also got in more transmission seals. I replaced the drivers side hub seal which was a bitch. It had the new style. The height or depth of the seal is much bigger. It did not come out easily. I then installed the new seal of the same design back in with a socket that luckily fit it well around the outside lip. I used a bit of grease where the seal slid into the case and it helped it go in easier.

Finally, I replaced the main shaft seal as well. I hope changing all those seals keeps it from leaking. I did notice after removing them that the hub seals had hard, brittle lips on them. I'm waiting for the nose cone boot (which this bus didn't have) before reinstalling the transmission. I hope this boot keeps the dirt and crap off the nose cone/hockey stick area and this new seal from leaking. The hockey stick looked great. No marks, nicks or anything.

While the engine was out, I wanted to go ahead and also replace the main seal too and inspect the clutch. I removed it with the best $60 dollar tool I've bought for VW's.

The clutch disk and pressure plate looked good.

The main seal it had looked great. No leaks but I changed it anyway. I'm hoping to get this transmission and engine to be as leak free as possible. I know.. right?
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Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
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[wcfvw69]

The last couple of days have been spent doing drudgery work like cleaning up the engine tin, muffler and replacing the seals in the oil cooler and mount. I was searching for some good used dual port cylinder tin locally. Everyone I checked w/in PHX was out and said "the old German tin is starting to dry up". Even the one's listed on the Samba were pretty beat. I ended up just repairing my cyl tin. I've also discovered that the 71 only front tin w/the dog house exhaust hole isn't real common either. I saw a couple but didn't feel compelled to spend a $100 dollars on it. The one on the engine is a 70 that had the hole cut in it. They did a good job.

One side of the cyl tin just needed some dents popped out and the other needed metal cut off and replaced. I had a single port cyl tin in good shape so it was sacrificed for the cause. I cut off the rusted, broken portion and welded the donor piece on. I also welded in a new piece where it bolts near the spark plug. I then cleaned them up with a wire wheel and painted them semi-gloss black.

I bought some new sled tin's that turned out to be EMPI. Yup, they needed to be massaged to make them fit. The motor when I bought the bus didn't have any sled tin's on it. I got them to fit.

This engine also had the wrong heater boxes on it. One box had no lever or opening flap mechanism on it and the other appears to fit a 67 bus. I sourced two used ones from the Samba. One was in good shape but this one was missing one of the two sled tin mounting tabs. I drilled off one off the old box and welded it on the new one. I then spent some quality time with an angle grinder and wire wheel to remove all the rust. Finally, I welded up a couple of other rust holes on it so it doesn't lose too much air when the heater is needed.
This was followed with a rust converter paint then some high heat grey rattle can spray paint.
I want to be able to have some heat this fall as we are going to be taking it to the mountains for some trips.

Hopefully tomorrow, I can finish it up and reinstall the transmission and engine. I'll then take it for a spin w/my fingers crossed that I have no leaks.
_________________
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Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[secretsubmariner]

The work you are doing is fantastic, well done!

Your bus will serve you well when it's all complete. Can't wait to see more.
_________________
-Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI

[wcfvw69]

[wcfvw69]

So, yesterday as I was finishing up getting the engine and trans ready for re-install today, I thought I might ask my 20 year old nephew who's going to a diesel tech school if he wanted to come over and help and learn. He said sure. Boy, I'm glad I asked. I'm not sure I could off managed to get these back in as a one man crew. It's challenging enough shoving a stock engine back in a bug by yourself with a fixed transmission but on a bus, it seemed even harder with the transmission moving all over. He was very helpful and I'm so glad I asked.

We installed the transmission and only had a brief fight with the coupler to get it on the transmission shaft. It was tight with the new nose cone boot that covers that shaft and seal.

I then finished buttoning up the engine. I bolted down the fan shroud first then realized I needed to put the carb manifold on first. Brain fart.. I love doing thing twice! I installed a brand new generator and belt as the generator and belt were looking a bit tired.

We then installed the rest of the ancillaries and enjoyed getting the clamps on the bottom of the exhaust right by the mustache bar.

Finally we went to stab the engine in with a small jack holding the transmission up. I screwed up and didn't mount the motor mounts on the mustache bar before we stabbed it in. This required us to un-bolt the bar and install the motor mounts on it, then reinstall the mustache bar back on the engine.

I have all the new fuels lines and filter hooked up along with the electrical. I put about 3 gallons of gas in the tank and hoped the new outlet didn't leak. So far so good. Tomorrow I need to button up the rear apron, install the bumper and then top off fluids.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[photoboy52]

That is a fantastic job! It all looks really great!

I have just read all 5 pages back to back and has been informative.

Thanks for also writing in where you sourced your seals and such.
_________________
Current
1972 Sierra Yellow Campmobile
1.7L (rebuilding)

'97 Geo Metro 3 door 1L
Tin can on a skate
(Did engine rebuild my self)

Past
1961 Bug Sedan
Thrown Rod (Recently found it still at home now need to get from Nor Cali to SE TX!!)

[wcfvw69]

[wcfvw69]

Well, a big set back today. I finished putting the rest of the engine together. I had taken off the distributor cap and wires. I brain farted and forgot that the rotor is 180* out. I went to start it and shockingly, it didn't run. I then remembered. I put it on top dead cylinder on number one. Then put the wires on wrong for the second time.. DUH.. Finally, I got them on correctly. Then, the new generator tortured me for an hour. The dash light stayed on after getting it running. I polarized it a couple of times. Nothing.. Light still on. I then checked voltage output on the generator with the wires disconnected. It was working great. I hooked it back up and the light went out.. Odd..

I buttoned everything up, crawled under it for the 100th time to double check everything. I reinstalled the shifter and adjusted it.. I topped the fluids off and took it for a spin. It started popping out of 4th gear. It NEVER did this before. I posted another question on a different thread about it.

I readjusted the shift plate in every direction and it still pops out though it will stay in after putting it right back in after the initial pop out. I'm going to double check a few things, flush the fluid in the transmission and then see what happens before pulling the transmission out again..
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[photoboy52]

The pooping out of gear for me in my bug was a clutch cable/Bowden tube adjustment. Hope you can figure it out quickly.
_________________
Current
1972 Sierra Yellow Campmobile
1.7L (rebuilding)

'97 Geo Metro 3 door 1L
Tin can on a skate
(Did engine rebuild my self)

Past
1961 Bug Sedan
Thrown Rod (Recently found it still at home now need to get from Nor Cali to SE TX!!)

[roger rabbit]

[wcfvw69]

[wcfvw69]

Well, one step forward, one step backwards. As I posted on a separate link, my nephew and I removed the engine and trans for the second time. I was happy it only took an hour to get them both on the floor. I pulled the nose cone looking for something that was obvious that could have been causing it to pop out of 4th gear. Sadly, everything looked ok to my un-educated transmission eyes.
I spoke to Bill at Arizona Transaxle (super nice guys BTW) and got my name on the waiting list to have them pull it apart.

Here's the link with pictures of the nose cone off.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=608644&highlight=
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[wcfvw69]

double post
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[Anchovy]

[wcfvw69]

[wcfvw69]

Not much done lately to the bus. The transmission is still at Arizona Transaxle getting an overhaul. I called them the other day to see what else they found beside what I already shared. He said it was simply worn out. I hope to get it back in a couple of weeks.
I feel a bit guilty though as I have other things I need to do but I have simply been lazy.

I ordered a new dome light for over the fold out table. This bus didn't have one when I purchased it. I bought a Hella light that looks to be an original, new one from the gentleman from Germany who sells them here.

I pulled off the paneling hoping the wiring was still in place. YEESSS.. it was there along with the ground screw and washer.

I then had to jump the wires in the empty engine bay to get power to the dash. I turned the switch on and was happy to see the test light go bright!

Placing it on the board and centering it in position.

I got lucky and had three new bulbs in my tool box and hooked everything up.

I then hit the switch on the dash and nothing worked? DOH! Time to hit the two switches on the new light and, ta-da, looks good.

I still need to replace the two rear rubber brake lines as I have the new parts. I then need to yank the steering gear off and reseal it and go thru it. It's been leaking for years and I hope it is not junk when I get it apart.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[wcfvw69]

I finally got around to yanking the badly leaking steering box out of the bus. When I got it, It had some play in it and I adjusted the pitman arm adjustment. It had a slight "catch" at the center point and it just didn't feel right. I was wondering if the peg that rolls on the worm track was frozen or not.

SO, I removed the drank link, pitman arm, the bolts to the frame, the coupler and then the gear from the bus.

It had been leaking for a long time apparently. It was pretty quick and easy to get it out. Probably 15 minutes.

Here's the nasty thing on the bench.. I was happy to see it still had plenty of oil in it. It smelt and looked like 90 weight.

It took more time to clean the darn box in solvent than to remove it!

Here's the worm. Anyone see anything glaring? I didn't see anything.

Here's the gear all torn down. The bearings on the steering shaft feel great. NO roughness at all on either end. Very smooth. The pitman arm has some slight wear at the top though I can't feel any noticeable play when it's in the box. Certainly no side to side play.

[/b]Question, the bearings and peg that mount on the pitman shaft do rotate but take a bit of effort to do so. I read that the pre-load is like 3 inch pounds. My understanding is the peg is suppose to rotate in the worm. I pushed down on the pitman arm with the cover off and couldn't get the peg to rotate in the worm and I turned the shaft. Maybe it just needs to be under a lot more pressure to rotate. There are not any flat spots on the peg so maybe its ok?
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[1967250s]

If it still had oil in it, it's probably just fine. Probably just need seals. Remember that when the worm gear is turned by that big ass steering wheel, there is a lot of torque applied to the pitman arm, and that is keeping a 3000 lb straight and turning properly. The catch at center is good. It was all designed by wery, wery schmart Cherman enchineers, with much exsperience on Kafers, Shplit vindows and Transhporters!

[wcfvw69]