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ottvw Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2006 Posts: 928 Location: Auburn,WA
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Posted: Wed Aug 07, 2013 5:41 pm Post subject: |
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Aug 67's came with 66 and earlier bumpers so they are correct. _________________ Save a tree eat a beaver |
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13nunez Samba Member
Joined: August 05, 2013 Posts: 43 Location: Gardena, CA
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Posted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:48 pm Post subject: |
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6Kabrio7 wrote: |
13nunez wrote: |
6Kabrio7 wrote: |
Post a picture of the rear apron with the decklid up. The doors are 67 but the VIN is for a 66. |
What exactly is the rear apron and what is the deck lid? Lol sorry, totally new to these cars and their terms. |
Pull the rear engine lid up exposing the motor so we can see if the body of the car is 67 only. Where the engine lid locks into place if it's 67 only will have a round rubber cap unless the apron has been replaced. |
This is the best pic I could take. Didnt know what to really show but here's the engine bay.
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13nunez Samba Member
Joined: August 05, 2013 Posts: 43 Location: Gardena, CA
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Posted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 3:52 pm Post subject: |
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ottvw wrote: |
Aug 67's came with 66 and earlier bumpers so they are correct. |
Really?!? Thanks man!!! |
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6Kabrio7 Samba Member
Joined: July 22, 2006 Posts: 2387 Location: California
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Posted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:01 pm Post subject: |
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Yes that's a 67 only rear apron. _________________ 67 Convertible July 67 Yukon Yellow
67 Sedan May 67 Zenith blue |
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Bing67 Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2013 Posts: 25 Location: Waco, Tx
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Posted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:09 pm Post subject: |
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Hell yea that is nice congrats.
My early 67
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ottvw Samba Member
Joined: February 28, 2006 Posts: 928 Location: Auburn,WA
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Posted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 5:35 pm Post subject: |
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First thing I would do is ditch that oil cooler and filter and go stock.There's no fan cooling your engine so it will run hot.Oh and clamps on the fuel lines are a must. _________________ Save a tree eat a beaver |
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13nunez Samba Member
Joined: August 05, 2013 Posts: 43 Location: Gardena, CA
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Posted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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ottvw wrote: |
First thing I would do is ditch that oil cooler and filter and go stock.There's no fan cooling your engine so it will run hot.Oh and clamps on the fuel lines are a must. |
Where I can I get a stock one? And I need a new exhaust, there any you guys recommend? |
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OLD VW NUT Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2011 Posts: 2776 Location: High Desert of Washington 98823
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Posted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 10:10 pm Post subject: |
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13nunez wrote: |
ottvw wrote: |
First thing I would do is ditch that oil cooler and filter and go stock.There's no fan cooling your engine so it will run hot.Oh and clamps on the fuel lines are a must. |
Where I can I get a stock one? And I need a new exhaust, there any you guys recommend? |
To go back to a stock oil cooler you'll need to get a stock fan shroud first. They are a dime a dozen. If you have heater boxes you need to connect the heater hoses up to the heater boxes - this will help the engine run cool. They go where those big round holes are at that are sucking up hot exhausted air from the engine's underneath side - and can cause overheating. If you don't have heater hoses to connect up at least do your engine a favor and plug them up until you get some heater hoses. Having air flowing through the heater boxes even during summer when you don't need heat is necessary to help keep oil and head temps down. The entire heating and cooling system was well engineered - removing one piece of that system without understanding how that part is interconnected can cause problems if you don't 'get' how the system works.
As for exhaust - what style do you like? The old school extractor exhaust? Retro stock style? _________________ 71 Ghia Coupe - stock body - no rust! Powered by a 2110 W/Dual HPMX 44's - Rancho Pro Street Transaxle - A/C by Gilmore
Other car - 2013 VW Golf TDI |
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13nunez Samba Member
Joined: August 05, 2013 Posts: 43 Location: Gardena, CA
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Posted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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OLD VW NUT wrote: |
13nunez wrote: |
ottvw wrote: |
First thing I would do is ditch that oil cooler and filter and go stock.There's no fan cooling your engine so it will run hot.Oh and clamps on the fuel lines are a must. |
Where I can I get a stock one? And I need a new exhaust, there any you guys recommend? |
To go back to a stock oil cooler you'll need to get a stock fan shroud first. They are a dime a dozen. If you have heater boxes you need to connect the heater hoses up to the heater boxes - this will help the engine run cool. They go where those big round holes are at that are sucking up hot exhausted air from the engine's underneath side - and can cause overheating. If you don't have heater hoses to connect up at least do your engine a favor and plug them up until you get some heater hoses. Having air flowing through the heater boxes even during summer when you don't need heat is necessary to help keep oil and head temps down. The entire heating and cooling system was well engineered - removing one piece of that system without understanding how that part is interconnected can cause problems if you don't 'get' how the system works.
As for exhaust - what style do you like? The old school extractor exhaust? Retro stock style? |
lol honestly didnt understand anything you said but I will for sure look into it and see what needs to be done. i dont know any of the parts you mentioned as i dont have much knowledge on these engines yet. but Thank you nonetheless.
as for the exhauast, i really have no preference. stock would be better or i like the duals it has on but just a little cleaner and better looking ones. |
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[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: June 14, 2002 Posts: 1663 Location: Palominas AZ
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Posted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 4:13 pm Post subject: |
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I'll see if I can translate what was said for ya!
The lingo is very different from normal car talk and a traditional car guy can get lost in the world of AC (Air-Cooled).
"To go back to a stock oil cooler you'll need to get a stock fan shroud first. They are a dime a dozen."
In your picture this is the chrome humped thing on your engine. Your generator is bolted to it with four bolts - and on the back of the generator is the fan. The shroud captures air and directs is down over the engine itself as the heads and cylinders have fins. The forced air cools the engine.
The stock oil cooler is mounted INSIDE the shroud. When hooked up correctly they work very well.
"If you have heater boxes you need to connect the heater hoses up to the heater boxes - this will help the engine run cool. They go where those big round holes are at that are sucking up hot exhausted air from the engine's underneath side - and can cause overheating. "
On a VW the "heater" for the car is the exhaust system. The fan shroud (see above description) normally has two ports where metal hoses redirect some of that cooling air into the "heater boxes." Heater boxes are shrouds that cover some of the exhaust manifold (under the engine) . These "boxes" are hot and the air is heated before it is directed via flap into the cabin.
If you don't have a stock exhaust system with heater boxes (which may be the case - I don't see sign of them through the holes) heating problems can arise.
"If you don't have heater hoses to connect up at least do your engine a favor and plug them up until you get some heater hoses. Having air flowing through the heater boxes even during summer when you don't need heat is necessary to help keep oil and head temps down. "
The holes he's mentioning are in the tin near your crank pulley. You can see one on each side of the tin - (about the side of coke cans). You should cover these for now as they allow hot air from the exhaust / bottom of engine to seep into the engine compartment.
This is very important and easy o fix. Get two pieces of metal that will cover the holes and drill a hole in the middle. Clamp them together on the tin with bolts and washers through the hole to cover it. This way no hot air can come in.
"The entire heating and cooling system was well engineered - removing one piece of that system without understanding how that part is interconnected can cause problems if you don't 'get' how the system works."
This is one of the most important lessons in VW ownership. This car has no radiator. It's cooled by air. If the air is redirected / rerouted / pre-heated incorrectly you can get kind of a run-away affect and cook your engine easily. My advise is ask around on here or at your local VW shop and see if anyone near you can look at your system and point out what you need. Until then, avoid driving long distances as you'll cook your engine. _________________ Ryan
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1963 Beetle
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OLD VW NUT Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2011 Posts: 2776 Location: High Desert of Washington 98823
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Posted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 6:06 pm Post subject: |
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Ryan - nicely done 'translation'. Sometimes I forget that we often speak a different language than the water cooled auto world speaks. _________________ 71 Ghia Coupe - stock body - no rust! Powered by a 2110 W/Dual HPMX 44's - Rancho Pro Street Transaxle - A/C by Gilmore
Other car - 2013 VW Golf TDI |
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[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: June 14, 2002 Posts: 1663 Location: Palominas AZ
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Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 7:46 am Post subject: |
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OLD VW NUT - I hear ya!~
I came from the world of Model T's to the VW World back in 1998 or so - and I had absolutely no clue about air cooled at all. I thought it meant that there was air around the egnine - so that meant it how it cools. I didn't know there was a DESIGN arround it - I mean - its just AIR right?
Luckily a local VW guy took me under his wing and helped me with my first resto and assembly of a 63 bug.
I wonder if anyone has put together a VW dictionary yet? _________________ Ryan
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1963 Beetle
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2nd67 Samba Member
Joined: August 09, 2013 Posts: 204 Location: high desert ca
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Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 10:21 am Post subject: these are cool car's |
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this could turn out to be your favorite car of all time!. i also am starting a 67 restore and look forward to being back on german cars. hey what is the thing with the fingers in your one pic?. is that like gang for VW? |
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13nunez Samba Member
Joined: August 05, 2013 Posts: 43 Location: Gardena, CA
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Posted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 9:04 pm Post subject: |
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Another quick question?!?
Are any of you guys able to tell me the following...
1. What motor do is in my bug. (Hp, year, umm idk w.e else info I can get)
2. Is my car 6v or a 12v?
3. Why don't I have side marker lights on the the fenders? All other 67 have them. |
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OLD VW NUT Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2011 Posts: 2776 Location: High Desert of Washington 98823
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Posted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 9:34 pm Post subject: |
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Stock for 67 would be a 1500cc for US imported cars. The numbers under the generator stand will tell you which block you have - the first two letters/numbers designate which years that motor is stock on.
You can check which motor you have by using this handy chart:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/engine_letters.php
Your motor has dual port heads. More than likely its a 1600cc motor - unless someone put in a big bore kit - then it is probably a 1641cc or 1679cc. Less likely would be a 1776cc or above. The dual port heads fit on the 1500/1600 single port motors with minor reworking so that could be the stock case. Your fenders have been 'shaved'. A term used to describe the act of shaving everything above the metal surface.
Your car was 12v stock. I'm guessing it'll be 12v since I've done more than a few 6v to 12v conversions but never the reverse. _________________ 71 Ghia Coupe - stock body - no rust! Powered by a 2110 W/Dual HPMX 44's - Rancho Pro Street Transaxle - A/C by Gilmore
Other car - 2013 VW Golf TDI |
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Hotahseh Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2013 Posts: 57 Location: Miami
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Posted: Tue Aug 13, 2013 10:37 pm Post subject: |
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Sick, car looks good man, gotta lower it the right way and have patience with the bug!! she'll treat you right
heres my 67
Dont hesitate to ask all the questions you need, great guys on this forum to help out! VW family is by far the best in car world |
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13nunez Samba Member
Joined: August 05, 2013 Posts: 43 Location: Gardena, CA
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Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 11:58 am Post subject: |
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OLD VW NUT wrote: |
Stock for 67 would be a 1500cc for US imported cars. The numbers under the generator stand will tell you which block you have - the first two letters/numbers designate which years that motor is stock on.
You can check which motor you have by using this handy chart:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/engine_letters.php
Your motor has dual port heads. More than likely its a 1600cc motor - unless someone put in a big bore kit - then it is probably a 1641cc or 1679cc. Less likely would be a 1776cc or above. The dual port heads fit on the 1500/1600 single port motors with minor reworking so that could be the stock case. Your fenders have been 'shaved'. A term used to describe the act of shaving everything above the metal surface.
Your car was 12v stock. I'm guessing it'll be 12v since I've done more than a few 6v to 12v conversions but never the reverse. |
Ok sweet thank you!! But how can I still determine what motor I have without tearing it apart. Basically I'm looking to use the money to have this baby go with minor changes. I know my drum brakes are shot as well as exhaust. So I'm trying to see what else I need to do before I end up hurting something in the car. Or maybe something is already jacked up and I don't even know it!! |
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13nunez Samba Member
Joined: August 05, 2013 Posts: 43 Location: Gardena, CA
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Posted: Wed Aug 14, 2013 11:58 am Post subject: |
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Hotahseh wrote: |
Sick, car looks good man, gotta lower it the right way and have patience with the bug!! she'll treat you right
heres my 67
Dont hesitate to ask all the questions you need, great guys on this forum to help out! VW family is by far the best in car world |
I keep hearing that a lot. What is the correct way? And what is the incorrect way and what are the results of it being incorrect lol? |
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Goshen Samba Member
Joined: April 03, 2012 Posts: 833 Location: Miami. FL & Cartagena
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jlsmitty83 Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2013 Posts: 10 Location: Kingsland, GA
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Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 10:09 am Post subject: |
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As stated before it is definately a '67. the 3rd number of the VIN denotes the year. the second set of 3 numbers on the vin will determine the month of build. mine is 117116. 116=august '66 build date.
Your front fenders are not '67, they should have turn signals on them, unless yours were filled in. your front bumper could be correct but they would have had overriders and towel bars(looking like the rear). your engine code would have started with H for being an August '66 build engine just as mine is and was a 1500 single port.
there are a lot of other "one year only parts" meaning only the '67's had them and you can check those out on 1967beetle.com. there is a long list of parts as well as some pictures. |
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