are passenger and driver side head cylinders the same?

michaelarmstrong01

Hello

I'm going to attempt to replace head gaskets/water seal on my 86 automatic vanagon. If the heads end up looking pretty bad i'll need to look into purchasing new heads. Are both sides the same? When I go to purchase I'm only asked for quantity. This makes me assume they are the same but just checking.

Thanks
Michael

1986 2.1 Automatic Vanagon Full Camper

ajdenette · Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 4:11 pm Post subject:

Yes all replacement cylinder heads are the same some early heads were not drilled for the power steering bracket
_________________
1985 2wd Westy with 2000 Subaru 2.2 current driver
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=685635
1986 Syncro Doka Project next in line
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=732777
1990 Vanagon Syncro Base awaiting body work

the joker · Samba Member Joined: October 12, 2006 Posts: 1287

Buy new AMC

Find a local machine shop to replace the exhaust seats with harder seats

michaelarmstrong01 · Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 4:41 pm Post subject:

Now next question -

I have owned the Van for 3 weeks. The only major work I've done to it it resealed the fuel tank (successfully).

I'm very a very very logical person. Can this job be done without removing the engine if I get the help of a mechanically inclined friend "in my back yard"?

The van is in excellent shape IMO. Underneath there doesn't appear to be any rust. I'm hoping this helps with removing everything.

I need some confidence!

michaelarmstrong01 · Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 4:43 pm Post subject:

/motivation!

ajdenette · Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 4:52 pm Post subject:

It truly is easier to remove the engine and do the heads on a bench or engine stand than to try and do it in the van especially if anything goes wrong with the cylinders.
_________________
1985 2wd Westy with 2000 Subaru 2.2 current driver
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=685635
1986 Syncro Doka Project next in line
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=732777
1990 Vanagon Syncro Base awaiting body work

baru16 · Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 5:03 pm Post subject:

I agree with ajdenette. My dad and i removed the engine in a few hours much easier to work with on a bench.
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_______________________

Vanagon 91' 2.1L Weekender
Vanagon 85' 1.9L Sunroof
Jetta 97' VR6 GLX

michaelarmstrong01 · Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 5:51 pm Post subject:

Besides how tight some bolts could be, what is the most difficult part?

vanagonjr · Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 5:57 pm Post subject:

With the engine out, now is the time to replace the oil cooler seal and at least those small PITA hoses at the back of the engine. Might be a good time for the water pump - your call on that. Check that the coolant nipple on passenger side, sort of below the alternator is a metal one. If plastic, get a metal replacement. http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_674_667/outlet-with-nipple-includes-gasket.html

I'm sure others can pipe in with other suggestions,
_________________
John - 86 Wolfsburg Westfalia "Weekender"
Flint reversed 1.8T W/Passat 5-Speed
LiMBO (late model bus club) www.limbobus.org
LiMBO is on Facebook too! https://www.facebook.com/groups/
FAQ thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=525798

michaelarmstrong01 · Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:05 pm Post subject:

So far the only thing I have ordered is the full gasket replacement kit (for both sides). GW Auto parts had quite a deal on it. I'm going to start on Saturday morning.

IdahoDoug · Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:44 pm Post subject:

Hardest part is getting the exhaust off and out of your way imo. Start appying a penetrating oil like pb blaster on all bolts u will loosen. Other pain is old hoses with the vw spring clamps that wont open all the way because of a tab they use for pliers. Go postal on those and just cut the hose off and replace it. I regret wasting so much time reaching way up in there and screwing around.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

morymob · Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 5:58 am Post subject:

If u do pull eng I would replace tq converter seal, past experience is the old hard seals dont like to have converter moved around, & it WILL due to wear etc move enuf for seal to leak, not 100% of time but not worth the chance to save on a less than $10 seal, my 2cts.

MarkWard · Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:38 am Post subject:

As the others have stated, you'll have an easier time and get a better result with the engine removed. Read through this and see what you can come across doing this job without pulling the engine.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=563976&highlight=parking
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☮️

michaelarmstrong01 · Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 10:05 am Post subject:

Thank you everyone! I feel more confident with the support of this community. I'll spray the bolts a few days prior. I've been reading and watching and learning so much. Removing the exhaust does sound like a reoccurring problem. Also the cylinders coming off with the head. I hope I can use the "ear trick" on the cylinders and make them stay with the block.

Another question - There are 8 push rods and 8 push rod tubes correct? Do I need to keep track of every slot position? Meaning Can all those be put aside in a box? Do I need to label?

michaelarmstrong01 · Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 10:06 am Post subject:

rsxsr,

I read that entire post on Monday. Was more inspirational than instructional Smile

RocketBox · Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 11:49 am Post subject:

you can totally do this! seriously. HArbor freight has an 'engine support beam' that works AWESOME for raising and lowering the engine & makes alignment really easy. Keep track of what connects where. The ease of dropping these engines really makes them pretty cool to work on. I was pretty scared my first time - i bulit it up way more in my head that it really was.

If i recall - removing engine consisted of:
1. Removing the 13 external connections. This consists of sensors, fuel in & fuel out, throttle cable, vacuum lines - this is the hardest part...

2. Attach engine support system of choice, either from above or below

3. Remove the 4 bolts (size 13mm i think with a 10mm nut on top, 2 on each side) of the engine support beam. BE SURE YOUR ENGINE IS WELL SUPPORTED BEFORE THIS STEP!!!!

4. start loosening the bolts that connect the transmission and the engine. Keep loosening them intil you can disengage the engine and tranny.

5. Once everything is clear, slowly begin to lower your engine.

6. Check to see if you forgot any connections. if so, remove them and tag em

7. Lower the engine more. i like to lower it onto a moving dolly from HF so i can roll it out

8. Raise the back end of the van up to around 34" i think. This allows enough clearance for the engine to roll out from under the van

9. Roll engine out from under the van...
_________________
84 Vanagon - tintop, 1.9L wbx. Complete Rebuild done August 2014. 2000~ miles on it so far... SOLD

80 Vanagon Camper ASI Riveria - subaru 2.2 conversion project. 1993 Subary legacy donor car + Riveria = AWESOME!

RocketBox · Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 11:51 am Post subject:

Also - pushrods and tubes are the same on each/all. i'd also get some new seals for the tubes while you have em off.
_________________
84 Vanagon - tintop, 1.9L wbx. Complete Rebuild done August 2014. 2000~ miles on it so far... SOLD

80 Vanagon Camper ASI Riveria - subaru 2.2 conversion project. 1993 Subary legacy donor car + Riveria = AWESOME!

michaelarmstrong01 · Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 12:19 pm Post subject:

Thanks rocketbox! I only have 2 ramps. Do you think that will be high enough to pull the engine out from the bottom?

michaelarmstrong01 · Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 3:20 pm Post subject:

I'm reading about having to support the transmission? Is this needed? Can someone explain please?

RocketBox · Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:46 pm Post subject:

Sorry - forgot about that... tranny needs to be supported. I used a heavy duty ratchet strap or tie down with the hooks going into some holes that were about the right location on the frame.

As far as ramps... it might be. You willl get a few inches of you lower the engine onto a piece of plywood rather than a dolly. You may want to get a jack and some stands though.. pretty handy To have. If you do go the ramp route It would probably work but you may have to remove the distributor and maybe the intake manifold.
_________________
84 Vanagon - tintop, 1.9L wbx. Complete Rebuild done August 2014. 2000~ miles on it so far... SOLD

80 Vanagon Camper ASI Riveria - subaru 2.2 conversion project. 1993 Subary legacy donor car + Riveria = AWESOME!


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