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Help determining 1977 Bus engine displacement
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Vjod
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Update on Bus Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Vjod wrote:
getting it towed to school tomorrow.

Excellent, just don't go diving in to an instant full tear down before you've done the tests we've outlined first, it still could be something simple. You may want to wait for the books to arrive and read the red one fully first, unless your shop teacher is a vintage German car owner himself be careful taking his advice, VW's are outwardly simple machines but hide precision engineering that needs to be repaired using the proper procedures, measurements and torque values, fixing it like you would a worn out Chevy will usually end badly.


Well I talked to him about it today and he said he wanted to isolate the location of the knocking (case or heads) first and go from there. I'm most likely going to go with his advice (it will probably be similar to your suggestions) and keep what you all have said (like the technical bit about the bolt that could ruin my engine) for when (if) i tear down the engine completely, which i hopefully wont have to do because of a thrown rod...
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Vjod
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
Towing an Automatic

Thanks for the info for future reference, but its getting towed on a flatbed, so i dont have to worry about the bearings or anything getting worn out.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found where the M-Code tag should be, but its not there
Look behind the drivers seat and see if it is there?
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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah... I see the type of neighborhood you live in. Probably once inhabited by coyotes, hares and kangaroo rats. Next time the brownshirt thugs come by and give you icy looks because you left your garage door open for more than eight minutes, tell them all those Dish Network things are more of an eyesore than any VW bus ever will be.

Smart move getting your bus on a flatbed and on to the auto shop! Cool You will probably have a better work environment there. Just remember not to let little trinkets disappear from your bus... inside or out.
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Vjod
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
I found where the M-Code tag should be, but its not there
Look behind the drivers seat and see if it is there?


I'll check, but what I meant by "it's not there" is that there are 2 holes where the rivets that hold it on were and the m- tag is no longer there. It looks normal ( not liked someone ripped it out) but it just isn't there
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

better double check the vin on the dash and the one near the engine to see if they match and if any welding has gone on in that area.
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Vjod
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SGKent wrote:
better double check the vin on the dash and the one near the engine to see if they match and if any welding has gone on in that area.

Both numbers match up and there's no welding. Ran it at the school shop today and we determined that it's most likely a rod knock due to the sound. We are going to pull the engine and go from there
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Vjod
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 9:48 am    Post subject: Found the engine knock Reply with quote

Ok someone tell me if I should start a new thread for this, but I found the rod knock in the engine and now I need some info. The rod bearing on one of the pistons disintegrated and basically wrecked the crankshaft and other things, rings are all bad and lots of stuff needs to be replaced. I'm thinking it's better to try and find a used runner engine somewhere and I need to know of places I can look for one (in so cal preferably).
Thanks
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1967250s
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep the same thread here. Used runner engine is a crap shoot, unless you get some guarantee. Crank might be grindable, check w/machine shop. Lots of good new parts available, also lots of good used parts.
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Vjod
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I'm on a budget so I don't have money to replace basically all of the engine and do the machine work. If I could get a used one that only needs a small bit of work, it would be more manageable. Any help or recommendations would be great
Thanks again
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 07, 2014 4:31 pm    Post subject: Salvage Yards Reply with quote

Salvage Yrds
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Vjod
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, I am hearing things from two separate ends and i would like some advice on what I should do. It's about 50/50 with people I talk to on whether or not I should repair the original engine and replace the necessary parts, or just replace it with a used runner. Any advice/ recommendations?
Thanks Smile
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finding a good used runner is always a big "IF".
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Vjod
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
Finding a good used runner is always a big "IF".

How so? And is it just better to go through all the machine work ad buying basically all new guts for the one I have?
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white74westy
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vjod wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
Finding a good used runner is always a big "IF".

How so? And is it just better to go through all the machine work ad buying basically all new guts for the one I have?


I believe what Wildthings is trying to tell you here, is that the "runner" may have all the same (or similar) symptoms that your current motor has. They may not show up right away, but they might within a couple miles/hours/months...you get the picture. Then you end up with two motors that are shot. You're better off putting a little extra in the one you got. If you take your time and with the assistance of others, you'll have a good machine, that you're very familiar with and will know all the possible "uknowns" that a "runner" might present. In other words, it will be your work, not someone else's that you're relying upon! Unless you're willing to do a full inspection (i.e. leak-down, and compression check, etc. on the "runner") most here would consider it suspect. Hope this helps Cool
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Vjod
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for replying... I guess it makes more sense to just go with what I have, but it's just so damn messed up. I don't even know what to do for machine work and replacement parts. I need a crankshaft because the one I have is most likely too damaged to be saved, at least one new rod and piston, all new rod bearings, all new cylinders, all new rings... Basically everything but the block and heads is toast
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can always buy a used engine and give it a try. Maybe you will be lucky and maybe you will not. A used engine even if it doesn't run all that well could possibly give you a better core to rebuild.
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Vjod
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
You can always buy a used engine and give it a try. Maybe you will be lucky and maybe you will not. A used engine even if it doesn't run all that well could possibly give you a better core to rebuild.

Thats what my exact thoughts are. If i can get a used engine, running or not, that needs less work than my current one does, then that would be a lot easier. I'm trying to see if the closest VW shop to me has anything available and in the mean time I'm probably going to crack open the block and see how bad the damage is to the inside of the motor.
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my59
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2014 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Read the Wilson book. Highlight the parts for type 4 and take it slow. Measure and have some one else check. This is a perfect shop class project because the whole thing comes apart and is light weight vs. some block of iron....
I just redid mine with a knock and it was main bearings, rod recondition and bearings, new cam, new hydro lifters, polish crank and refit stock size bearings. The part that sucked was finding broken land on a piston so new P&C were needed. It cost about twice you budget.

One thing to keep in mind a running bus is worth way more than one with a broken engine with a rod sticking out of it.
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Vjod
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a list of reliable sites to buy new parts from? I'm trying to evaluate the costs of buying a used motor vs. replacing the parts on my current one.
thanks Smile
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