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Need help reviving 64 Karmann Ghia
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CnfsdWhtGuy
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 8:26 pm    Post subject: Need help reviving 64 Karmann Ghia Reply with quote

Have a 1964 Karmann Ghia and I am trying to bring it back to life. It did not run for 15 years give or take a few. Well I put in new oil, new soft fuel lines, cleaned carb (This is my first time working on a car period so originally I didn't actually clean the jets. I thought they were just screws. A friend helped me and we cleaned them out recently thinking this would solve my problem. it did but not all the way), new fuel pump, new points, new condenser (excuse any grammatical errors.), new spark plugs and wires. I cleaned the tank and put in gas. I attempted to set the timing but not with a light gun. I saw a video online using a 12 battery tester and I used this. I gapped the valves as well. I think I did this all right but again its my first time.

Anyhow back to trying to start the car. (Again I may garble terminology so don't hold it against me.) It will start if I have the throttle on the furthest step out on the choke. I also have to limit the air flow ever so slightly to keep it from dying. It will start easily this way but this is as far as I can get. If I step down a tooth I have to close off the air more to keep it running. I have tried screwing in the throttle screw, unscrewed the fuel mixture screw (the average was about 2 full turns from all the way in. It really didn't help) in increments and neither negated the problem. It would run idling really high or it would die. No real in between. And when I say high know that I really have no idea what it sounds like when it is right...

I even toyed with the distributor just slightly to see if one direction would help... Didn't seem to as far as I could tell.

If there is any other information you need just let me know.

Just a confused white guy asking for you help...
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NOVA Airhead
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 4:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like you may need a carb rebuild.
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CnfsdWhtGuy
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought the kit and did the rebuild already. I believe I did it correctly but it is definitely possible I did something wrong. As I mentioned earlier I didnt clean the jets properly. I took to a friends house though and he used his air compressor and blew out each of the jets and the carb itself. There was air flow and the jets seemed clear to me.

If you think this is still the culprit I have no problem getting into it again but I thought I solved that issue.
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a pretty good source to help you out. from cleaning thru set up. If timing is off it will never run right so its good to go in sequence to get it all set up right. Points, timing, carb...
Did you set/check/replace points?
http://www.vw-resource.com/misc_tune.html
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karghia74
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent advice , also a good resource covering the carburetor.,http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/carburetors.php
Find your model and get familiar with it. It will save you a lot of headaches later.
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CnfsdWhtGuy
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did setup each. I really dont remember the order though i.e. Points or timing.

I believe I setup the points and condenser correctly. I made sure I was on number 1 and I put in the new points and used a business card for spacing. It was was tight on the card and I tightened it down. When I removed the card there was a space. it was not touching.

For the starter I lined up to 7 degrees off TDC which is supposed to be how you set the timing and I lined up the distributer using the 12v light tester.

As for the carb I will read that shortly and get back to you.
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-Zodiac-
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gotta set points to .016 and valves to .006
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CnfsdWhtGuy
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Set the valves at .006. I was told a business card is .016 and that is why I used that. Is that not correct?
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-Zodiac-
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lol never had to measure a business card. Probably close enough to get it moving, but invest in some feeler gauges .
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CnfsdWhtGuy
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah my buddy gave me a set. I just didnt have it when I set the points. So I did the points before the valves... would that matter?
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-Zodiac-
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not at all, if you want to see if you points are firing you can turn the ignition and and move them with a screwdriver to look for the arc.
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

concur, a biz card is only for roadside repairs.
Use the right feeler gauge and confirm with dwell meter.
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CnfsdWhtGuy
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zodiac,

What do you mean? Am I turning it over with the ignition or just turning the car on? And what am I moving with a screw driver? I am going to realign and gap the points tonight. I would like to confirm it is working correctly though.
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

to confirm its correct, you need to use a dwell meter. Looking at the arc wont tell you if you have the correct gap or even if its in the ballpark. You want 50* give or take 2* (degrees)
http://www.howacarworks.com/ignition-system/checking-the-dwell-angle
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-Zodiac-
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agreed,it's not really telling you anything exept that you are getting fire there and your points are alright, won't tell you if it's set. You're just pushing the points away from eachother.
Set those points, make sure your carb is good and tell us how it goes.
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CnfsdWhtGuy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so I do not have a dwell meter yet but I regapped the Points. I started it again and it started when on the top step and would run without closing the air flow. As I stepped the choke steps down however it died. I made a to the second to last step. Again if I hold the airflow closed it will run even at the lower throttle position. It makes me think there is an intake leak somewhere but I don't see anything. I will get the dwell meter this weekend but let me know your thoughts at this point.
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c21darrel
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can locate an intake leak by spraying aerosol carb cleaner at each connection...manifold to carb, manifold to head...
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SchnuppiePup
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 2:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also thought that similar trouble with my '64 Guia was due to carburetor or ignition system issues. It started and ran, but ugh, lousy. I did everything possible to get the carb and ignition system correct. Then I did a compression check: lousy compression. Eventually, a tear-down showed that the cylinder heads were cracked and the valves (part of the heads) weren't in such great shape either. Recall that an engine needs fuel, spark, and compression.

Good news: (1) A compression gauge will set you back maybe $40 at your local auto parts store. (2) Compression checks are as easy as changing a spark plug. (3) Compression is a good indicator of conditions in individual cylinders/pistons and the engine in general. (4) The carb and ignition system don't need to be operating correctly to do a compression check; i.e., you can isolate a (compression) problem.

Bad news: If your compression is way below specs (<100 psi), as was mine (incredibly low, yet the engine still started and ran), then you should consider dropping the engine and removing the cylinder heads to diagnose and address the problem: (1) Examine the heads with a magnifying glass and/or (2) take them to a local VW shop you trust.

Good news: My '64 Guia engine purrs like a kitten now; maybe yours will too, soon.
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Abscate
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 4:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A car that sat for 15 years will likely have trouble making compression until the pistons rings and cylinders can all be happy together again.

The compression test will tell you how well they are doing their job.

I think you have a vacuum leak though. Check all those small hoses for mouse activity.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or... let your car warm up for 5 minutes or so on whatever lobe will give it a good enough speed to get warm and running. Then try the lowest lobe on the carb that will keep her running and adjust the idle screw. If it does nothing then you certainly have leaks. You will have low compression for sure. The only way to get than back in my opinion is to drive it, she needs a load to get that back and maybe even some Mystery oil.

Good Luck!
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