Noticed today, a piece of my engine seal is gone! '78 Bus

[Airwalker700]

Hello! I've been a long-time lurker and have not really posted much, but today I noticed something that I need opinions on!

A little background: I have a 1978 transporter, which I've had the honor of owning for the past 3 years. I picked it up locally, which was a genuine rarity for my area (Upper Peninsula of Michigan) for $1,200.

When I bought it, it had vacuum leaks and had a major lack of power. I brought it to a shop who fixed the leaks, and also replaced my wiper motor. Since then, I've also had the rear brake drums/shoes replaced, shifter bushings replaced, new tires, honestly overall not too much! I change the oil regularly, and in the summer I try to drive it just about every day, and store it in the winter. (UP winters, not bus friendly) Also, engine code is "GE016441"

So here's my new dilemma! When I bought it part of what had me so pleased was the engine seal, which looked aged, but was complete and not torn anywhere. I was just cleaning the bus up for winter storage prep, and happened to look straight down to see a chunk of that seal missing!!

I have no idea how long that chunk has been gone...a week? a month? all summer? Makes me sick. I'm aware how important that seal is for keeping the engine from overheating/damage.

So, my question is: What should I do? The engine has almost 97,000 miles on it, and does run strong. With that small piece missing, am I causing a lot of heat damage? Can I try and just fill that spot, or do I need to replace the entire seal? Not having much space or tools I'd need to hire the job out...how much would something like that cost?

I'm sorry for so many questions, but if anyone has experience with this issue, I'd love to know any opinions and advice! Thank you in advance!

[JohnnyDemonic]

that foam seal is important, but the engine seal you are thinking of is the metal tin ware that separates the top of the engine (in the engine bay) from the bottom of the engine (hanging out the bottom below the engine bay)... if the tinware is missing you need to get that replaced ASAP, but you should be able to plug that small gap for a temp fix & replace the foam when you have the time/money...
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[Airwalker700]

Thanks for the reply! I see the foam seal runs $35.95 on BusDepot. Does the replacement of that seal require you to drop the engine? Also what would you recommend I use as a temp fix for plugging that gap?

[aeromech]

Just buy a new seal and install it. No special tools needed.

$35

http://www.busdepot.com/411813225
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[aeromech]

Naw, just fix it when you can
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[Wildthings]

Foam seals are cheap, readily available, and take about 10-20 minutes to replace which requires no tools what so ever. After you get the seal in place from above, drive each side of your van up on a curb in turn and pull the edges of the seal down fully into place from underneath all the way around. If you want you can keep you old seal to cut pieces out of somewhere down the road if mice mess up your new one too badly.

Some people like to place the joint centered in the front of the engine compartment, put it is really not important. The seal is probably the easiest to put in if you put the joint towards the right front as getting the seal around the fuel manifold on the right side is the hardest so the less length of seal you have to work past there the better.

You are also missing the plastic seal that fits around the alternator opening. There are early and late styles.

[mcdonaldneal]

Agree, it's an easy job. One of the first 'mechanical' things I was able to do to my bus. No tools, bit of a fiddle, but the pride of a novice looking at the tidy new seal is worth it!
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[Airwalker700]

Thanks a ton everyone!!

Wildthings, what would the official name of the alternator opening seal be? I can't seem to locate that one on BusDepot

[mikedjames]

While a proper seal is best, you may be able to find a piece of neoprene foam from a plumbing/heating supplier that could be fitted in the gap as a stop gap....
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[aeromech]

http://www.busdepot.com/02111929501c
_________________
Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound

[busdaddy]

Whoever installed that seal should have oriented the gap to the front so when it shrunk it wouldn't open over the hottest part, that said don't lose sleep over it, just fix it when convenient.

I'd be more worried about the missing booster fan hose myself, might want to invest in a can of engine brite and give the whole engine a shampoo when the seal is off too.
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[Tcash]

Alternator cover plate
You need the plastic seal.
022 119 281U Plastic seal 72-74
022-903-203 Plastic seal with new cover plate is 022-903-203

[Airwalker700]

[Airwalker700]

[busdaddy]

[Joey]

You could probably just gently stretch/adjust the existing foam seal so the end meet up again. I always put the joint over the bell housing area so if this does happen the hot exhaust heat doesn't get sucked into the engine compartment. I doubt that small gap did any damage to your engine.
_________________
Joey

‘60 Kombi - '74 Bus - '79 Panel - '65 Beetle

[Tcash]

That would be one of them. By the looks of it there are two to pick from depending on which alt. cover plate you have. Maybe someone has some pictures of the two different cover plates.

Correct me if I am wrong.
Left=55 amp cover plate. 72-75
Right=55&70 amp cover plate. 76-79

[Wildthings]

I have been able in the past to make the flatter of the two types of alternator seals buy just cutting up an oil or antifreeze jug. Worked well for years until I found a stock one.

With a bit more ingenuity I could probably come up with a reasonable facsimile of the other style as well.

[Tcash]

[Airwalker700]