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1978 Champagne first bus
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tonychavalia
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Joined: September 16, 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Youll get it. Once you get the FI going youll love it. That engine should pull thru any gear at damn near any rpm with no hesitation and popping when they are dialed in.

It must be the Champagne thing. Maybe you have to put Champagne in the tank instead of Fuel injector cleaner. One bottle every other tank.
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secretsubmariner
Champagne Wrangler


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Location: Tulsa, OK
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 6:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tonychavalia wrote:
Youll get it. Once you get the FI going youll love it. That engine should pull thru any gear at damn near any rpm with no hesitation and popping when they are dialed in.

It must be the Champagne thing. Maybe you have to put Champagne in the tank instead of Fuel injector cleaner. One bottle every other tank.


Laughing

What a waste when it could end up in my belly instead. I had the FI going for a little while, but the s-boot blew a hole in it, and almost everything needed to be replaced. So I'll do that and build up a new FI system entirely over the winter. That is my plan. Rid myself of all these spare parts, including some champagne parts, and rebuild the original FI. Wink
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-Tony
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1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI
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tonychavalia
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got lucky. I bought a Westfalia parts bus and the PO was just throwing cash at it trying to find a problem instead of trouble shooting.

I got a big ole box of extra parts that the PO bought hoping to fix it.

I have extra AFM, Double relays, fuel injector controller, distributor, cap, rotor, condesor etc.

With all these extra parts im still not closer on mine.
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secretsubmariner
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dang dude! That's a lot of stuff.

I have the full FI from mine waiting to be cleaned up and examined. If this next month or so provides me with a fully dressed type 4 engine and FI, I'll be blazing in the bus in more ways than I usually do in my driveway. lol.
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-Tony
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1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI
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tonychavalia
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try to get a GD block 2.0 if you can. Solid lifter and the most sought after 2.0.

Thats not even half the parts I have. I have almost a complete westfalia interior, 79 only cylinder heads and a bunch of bits and pieces.
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tonychavalia
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This was my 75 before i got my CE with the 79 Parts Westy. I bought the Westy for $700 with engine and trans but FI gremlins. The whole back was full of parts. I even got the big table which most Westys are missing. I had the Westy on the samba and people were offering me $400 for the table. I kept the table as my CE camper is missing it. I wish i would have got more parts off of it. I had a guy that wanted the shell only for $500. I gutted the interior and grabbed parts i knew my CE needed and sold it for $800

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secretsubmariner
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice man! yes I used to a spare westy very similar to that one, sam color and layout. Auto, too.

Big pimpin' with all those camper parts!

Idk what the engine will be, I'm sure it's from an early aircooled vanagon. And I have no preference on solid or hydraulic lifters, I am comfortable setting each and have no fears regarding either. Twisted Evil
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-Tony
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1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI
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secretsubmariner
Champagne Wrangler


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To recap: On my last outing my bus died. Turns out it was the battery. Got that solved, and it had a massive intake leak. Took 2 hours to drive it 3 miles through the neighborhoods.

Today: Did a compression test to see where I am. Battery's completely shot, dual solex carbs are the devil, once again I am without a bus.

The results of my compression test were:
#1: 105
#2: 110
#3: 100
#4:70


#4 was so low I tried it again, to account for human error. No significant change in readings. I knew that knock was something afoot. I guess I'll just have to find out.

So that's it, I'm done. Solexes are out the door, engine is coming out. Taking care of this the way I should have months ago. I just want a little bit of enjoyment from this hobby again.
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-Tony
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1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure the low results are not due to air in the lifters.
Boston Bob's history of Hydraulic Lifters
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secretsubmariner
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2014 6:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Tcash, I appreciate it
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1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI
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tonychavalia
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Run 1/2 quart of ATF fluid in the oil till it gets nice and hot and change the oil.
replace with a real thin oil.
Run the engine with new oil till it is warmed up with no lifter noise.

Let cool and recheck your valve clearances on #4. If you have low compression you may have them too tight and leaking on compression stroke.

Recheck your compression.

You can get dirt and sludge in the lifters causing them not to pump up all the way. The ATF trick is an old one and will get rid of a bunch of the sludge.

Just a thought. Definitely ditch the single carbs. Leave those dirty bastards for the old timers that still like them.
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secretsubmariner
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tonychavalia wrote:
Run 1/2 quart of ATF fluid in the oil till it gets nice and hot and change the oil.
replace with a real thin oil.
Run the engine with new oil till it is warmed up with no lifter noise.

Let cool and recheck your valve clearances on #4. If you have low compression you may have them too tight and leaking on compression stroke.

Recheck your compression.

You can get dirt and sludge in the lifters causing them not to pump up all the way. The ATF trick is an old one and will get rid of a bunch of the sludge.

Just a thought. Definitely ditch the single carbs. Leave those dirty bastards for the old timers that still like them.


From Tony to Tony:
Great suggestion on the ATF, thanks man! I wish I had known of that sooner. With the carbs on there now, and my completely dead stupid ass battery, there was no way to actually run the engine at all.

-----
I would like to put 30 to 50k on this bus in the next 3 to 5 years, so while I'm at a crossroads yet again, I have made my decision. The engine must come out. I need to KNOW the condition of the heads, valves and seats, I am no longer satisfied by guessing based on assumptions backed by blind observation. I am preparing for some over-the-winter refreshing that includes but is not limited to: Honing cylinders, sandblasting heads and pistons, all new seals on the engine all around. It is quite possible that I will need new heads. I refuse to have a bus that goes out of commission every few months because something else goes wrong. When it goes back in, it's either getting dual webers or the Fuel Injection. Depends on what I can afford after engine work.

While it's out I will clean up my engine compartment, re-do all the vapor lines and rubber tank pieces, refurbish my heat system, and remove the last of my air con components. Spring/Summer of 2015 will be the time of Champagne.

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It is also likely that I will not be posting to this thread until there is actual progress. Hoping to drop the engine this week.
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-Tony
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1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI
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tonychavalia
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 20, 2014 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its definately worth pulling that engine with all the issues you have had over the years.

Its not to hard to do a engine refresh. By a engine gasket set, rear main seal, clutch, throw out bearing.

Buy loads and loads and degreasers.

Piston and barrel kits can be had for $300 or so, not worth honing IMO.

Go back to FI or a single 2bbl weber. Dual carb perform better when tuned but a PIA to keep synched.
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Stuartzickefoose
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so when am i flying in? we could have all that done in one day....


buy some reconditioned heads with abilty to return if needed, and some new pistons and cylinders are only 200 new, and ill help you do a full top end rebuild in less than a weekend. Wink


just think...winter 14-15 of chapange...wait for it...


Pange on ICE!

yep, came up with that myself. Cool
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tonychavalia
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuart

Could have used you when I lived in WA. I did a top end rebuild under a carport in Puyallup. Took a week of nights and weekends. Could of saved time if I could have took it to a car wash instead of hand scrubbing the whole engine. That and I had a mystery flywheel and had to try 3 clutches.

There used to be a few VW shops within an hours drive and a Bug out at the Puyallup fairgrounds twice a year with a large swap meet was nice.
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Stuartzickefoose
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

where are you now?


tony chambers, what say you?
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tonychavalia
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 5:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im in Michigan now.
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secretsubmariner
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for your thoughts, gentlemen.

Stuart, I would love to have you, honestly. Maybe I'll have to get a credit card that gives me shit-tons of flyer miles. lol

Can you point me in the direction of these cheap pistons and cylinders?
Where can I get affordable reconditioned heads with a return guarantee?!

I liked the idea of sending my heads off to Hoffman Automotive inc, but their site says something that was very disheartening.

Hoffman Automotive Inc wrote:
We do still work with most models of used Type 4 heads. These include pretty much all models except the O.E. VW 2.0 transporter heads. We offer only complete re-manufacturing of Type 4 heads.

I cant' do this face> Confused hard enough. lol

I'll be honing the cylinders for next to nothing locally, which is my preferred route, providing nothing is actually wrong with them. I will replace them if there are actual problems and honing won't cut it.

I am not making any decisions until it's all apart and I can see what is going on in there. Education before action!

I'm leaving my grocery list here for reference:
Seal Kit
Rear Main Seal
Throw-Out Bearing (good idea, tonychavalia)
Piston Rings
Hone Cylinders, Sandblast heads and pistons
Thermostat and Flap repair
Heater box cables
Flywheel
Clutch Disc
Clutch Cover
Exhaust
Exhaust kit
Coil
Battery
Hose for Tank Ventilation
Fuel Filler Neck
Fuel Sender Repair
----------------------
I am sure I will be adding to that later.

For my entire time with my bus, many folks I meet tell me what to do based on their preferences.
"Don't run a thermostat, there is no need"
"You'll love dual carbs"
"Just put solid lifters in your engine and be done with it"
So forgive me if I don't willingly follow everyone's FWIW's and IMO's right away. I'm the kind of person that needs convincing with facts and observation. Laughing

I'll be returning to the almighty glory of the Fuel Injection. No doubt.
Taking my time to do it right, and fixing everything while it's out, will pay off in the end. Come Spring, there oughta be a new sherriff in this town.
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-Tony
ᏣᎳᎩᎯ ᎠᏰᎵ
1978 Champagne Edition Bus FI
1970 Auto Fastback FI
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tonychavalia
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keep an eye on the classifieds and craigslist. You may be able to find a good engine cheaper than you can redo yours for. Or a complete Bus that has a bad beam that has a good engine.

You souldnt need a flywheel, maybe a pressure plate. Wait till you have it out for sure.

I was going to go this route with the 96MM piston kit which bumps up the CC to about 2100CC.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-5210

I was going to look for 1800 cylinder heads as they have larger valves than the 2000cc which was scaled down for emisions. Some guys claim 5hp gains with the heads and they bolt on.

I have tried most of the scenarios you are looking at and can attest to the pros and cons. Fuel injection is awesome when it works, the engine will pull decent in any gear but its a bitch to keep going and running right.

Dual carbs is 2nd best for performance. Nice throaty intake noise good power but a pain in the ass to keep in check and balanced evenly.

Good luck man youll get it one way or another. Once you get the bus dialed in you appreciate it a whole lot more.
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Stuartzickefoose
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so lets plan a date! ill be there January 10th? Wink

what better way to start the year off then with some champagne on ice?
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206-841-7324
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