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srmpf
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Joined: February 25, 2011
Posts: 296
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 Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:15 am Post subject: |
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| Andrew A. Libby wrote: |
| Make sure to orient the breaker bar so that you are pushing it *toward the head* or you will break the boss for the injector. |
Hi Andrew,
I'm planning to remove the injectors on my AAZ next week and I've read the "toward the head" statements a few times now but have trouble to understand how that would look like 
the engine is in the van, so I'm limited how I can use the breaker bar anyway. so how exactly should that work? starting with pointing the other end of the breaker bar to the seat? or to the cabinet?
sorry for the dumb question 
thomas |
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?Waldo?
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| Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:26 am Post subject: |
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When loosening, the breaker bar should be oriented so that the handle is pointing toward the front of the van. You can fold the bench seat down as necessary. That way, when pressure is applied to the handle, you are pushing the handle toward the driver's side.
When tightening, the bar should be reversed so that it is pointing toward the rear of the van and you will again be pushing toward the driver's side. |
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srmpf
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| Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:29 am Post subject: |
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| great, makes all sense now thanks! |
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chrissev2
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Joined: March 03, 2012
Posts: 246
Location: Toronto
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| Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 5:19 pm Post subject: |
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| Andrew A. Libby wrote: |
When loosening, the breaker bar should be oriented so that the handle is pointing toward the front of the van. You can fold the bench seat down as necessary. That way, when pressure is applied to the handle, you are pushing the handle toward the driver's side.
When tightening, the bar should be reversed so that it is pointing toward the rear of the van and you will again be pushing toward the driver's side. |
You shouldn't tighten the injectors with a breaker bar. Use a torque wrench and get the right torque from the Bentley manual. Also, the head is aluminum and the threads the injectors go into are therefore aluminum. There is a very thin piece of aluminum at the bottoms of the threaded hole, over which the heat shield sits. It is really easy to break this piece of aluminum by over tightening. If you do that, you need a new head.
The injectors should be relatively easy to remove. Sometimes you will find carbon build up which will make things difficult, on older engines with high mileage. Remember the heat shields are a one use item, need to be replaced whenever you take the injectors out.
But yeah, if you have any trouble at all getting the injectors out, don't just pound on a breaker bar. You have to remember that these aluminum threads are incredibly delicate things and so easy to destroy. There is enough torque available in a breaker bar to tear them right out of the head.
When you put the injectors back in, use anti-seize compound on the threads (so the next time you or someone else has to take them out, they will come out). |
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chrissev2
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Location: Toronto
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| Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 5:28 pm Post subject: |
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| Andrew A. Libby wrote: |
The most significant thing missing from your list of things the 1.6 diesel needs to run is compression. With low compression a cylinder will not fire consistently and with low enough compression, a cylinder will not fire at all.
Run a 1.6 non-turbo at ultra-high rpms for a while and it may need quite a few other things to run well. A theory that fits the information better than timing being the issue, is that the rings were close to shot before the runaway and the runaway damaged them further so now they are totally shot in one cylinder and bad in the other weak one. A compression check would prove or disprove that immediately.
The head was pulled and replaced and so the cam timing should certainly have been adjusted during that process. Devesvws also mentions changing the injection pump and so pump timing should also certainly have been adjusted during that process as well. Additionally, cam timing and pump timing will affect all cylinders equally. Because of that, an issue with timing does not fit with the statement that the opening of cyl 2 and 3 injector unions does not change the running of the engine. |
Maybe....I've had experience with those motors since I was a teenager. I owned a number of the old 1.5 litre pre 1980 non turbo diesel rabbits. I used to run those motors until the cylinders were oval and the pistons could be moved back and forth by hand when the head was off, in the oval shaped hole. They would still run, but have no power and leak a lot of oil. If the motor smokes and runs rough at idle, I think it's a timing issue. If it smokes and has no power, I think it's compression. Just my thoughts. |
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?Waldo?
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| Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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| Absolutely the injectors need to be torqued correctly and a torque wrench is the right tool to use. I did not mean to imply to use a breaker bar to install them but I can see how one might get that impression from my post. |
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srmpf
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Joined: February 25, 2011
Posts: 296
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| Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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| Andrew A. Libby wrote: |
| Absolutely the injectors need to be torqued correctly and a torque wrench is the right tool to use. |
speaking of which: 51 ft lbs or 69 Nm, right? |
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?Waldo?
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| Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 12:21 pm Post subject: |
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| It may be 52, but I don't have the book right in front of me. 51 is certainly close enough. Heat shields are single-use. |
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kustomizingkid
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Location: Minneapolis, MN
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| Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 12:34 pm Post subject: |
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Very simple engines... All they need is air, fuel, and timing, compression too 
Sounds like the engine is hurt, compression will tell you a lot. The injectors can go bad too... Start with the basics. Make sure it is timed right, valves adjusted correctly, compression good. If that all checks out oil level and filter correct, and then go through the fuel system. |
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devesvws
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| Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 7:39 am Post subject: |
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I've been very busy for the last several days but I did get a compression tester... okay so I wanted to go back over everything and went over the injectors breaking the lines and bleeding all 4 injectors. each injector bleeding process made a difference in the engine..wtf I have no clue why? but then I noticed a lot of fuel coming from the fuel pump at the bottom somewhere  okay so still going to do the compression test but I got to take that pump back out and see what's going on...it just kinda feels like I got a fresh start at this thing giving it several days rest, and i hope my compression numbers are good 
_________________
THE FEW THE PROUD THE ORIGINAL VW WATERBOXER -> looking for a original 91 vanagon owners manual with 1991 on the cover http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmuiG2tUsP4&feature=share https://picasaweb.google.com/101290228103300323836/BostonBobFlywheelVideo#5543000332201103922
Last edited by devesvws on Wed Oct 29, 2014 7:45 am; edited 3 times in total |
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devesvws
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devesvws
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?Waldo?
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| Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 4:47 pm Post subject: |
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| That compression is fine. Now opening the various injectors does make a difference for each? Fix the fuel leak. Then check for air entering the pump. Ijection pump timing is spot on? |
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tjet 
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Joined: June 10, 2014
Posts: 3533
Location: CA & NM
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| Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 3:48 am Post subject: |
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| I've been watching this thread because I drive a Jetta TDI w/310,000 miles & I've heard stores about this. On an ALH TDI it can happen when the oil leaks thru the turbo. My intercooler has oil wetting on it. |
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devesvws
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?Waldo?
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| Posted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 7:08 am Post subject: |
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| There's oil in the intake tract of all of them from the oil mist in the crank vent unless someone does a significant crank vent mod (e.g mann provent, catch can, etc...). |
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devesvws
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chrissev2
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Location: Toronto
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| Posted: Fri Oct 31, 2014 4:05 am Post subject: |
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| devesvws wrote: |
| from left to right #1- 400 #2- 395 #3- 400 #4- 400 those are my readings..waiting for further instructions...btw the head is the original.. (I did not swap the head) |
Those compression #s are dead on. That is a good motor. |
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devesvws
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wish I was a diesel ace like mr libby and others 