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TX-73 Bug Rebuild
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lol, thanks Mr. D.
I've got some additional circuits to add so I'm thinking that I may actually get a used fuseblock and modify it to add to the original fuseblock. Want the look to be consistent rather than have the oem block sitting next to something like a new ATO block.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been doing wiring and waiting on electrical supplies for additional 12v feeds and circuits, also a circuit breaker at the battery to isolate the entire electrical system if something shorts out.

I will be adding a stereo with small amp/sub, LED courtesy lighting below the running boards, interior LED footwell lighting along with circuits for later A/C installation.

I've also started on transmission re-gasketing and seals, as I'm ready to get that installed, plus cleaning up the speedometer housing, lots of "side" projects. As I do those I will post up pics/comments.

Engine
I've decided that the 1600 engine I've got, although running, is going to be replaced with a 1776. I've decided to work with Texas Aircooled here in Houston for the replacement engine, specifically I think Mr. Duncan will be involved.
Engine progress will also be included in these build posts, I'm looking forward to a good running new engine in my "new" bug Very Happy


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Also, thanks to you that have commented and provided input to this build Blue Bug
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Started to get the speedometer cleaned up, didn't look too bad internally, although the lettering looks a bit yellowed. I also need to replace the glass facing and I've got new colored cel's for the warning lights. I'll do the foil tape inside the housing as well
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Gears seemed to be ok, I will add some grease though.
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a good used speedometer glass if your interested. Whats wrong with yours? I cant see anything wrong with it. Unless its the year VW started using plastic lenses.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More wiring Smile

I ordered some additional supplies - 8 ga wire. 200a circuit breaker, in-line fuses, 12ga speaker wire and an 8 circuit ATO panel.
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Engine compartment is about done I think. Note in-line fuse for coil feed. I'll secure the wires better before installing the tar-board.
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8ge feed going to the front of the car, need to figure out best place to attach the circuit breaker.
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This shows the 8ga feed to the front compartment along with a couple extra wires from the engine compartment and speaker wire.
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I drilled a hole with grommet above passenger footwell to run speaker wire to the rear of the car. Plan is to have fiberglass footwell enclosures for front speakers, plus rear speakers and a small sub behind the rear seat.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mr.Duncan wrote:
I have a good used speedometer glass if your interested. Whats wrong with yours? I cant see anything wrong with it. Unless its the year VW started using plastic lenses.


Doesn't show too well in the picture, but the lens has lots of small stress marks in it. The used glass sounds good to me, I'll get with you, thanks!
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the foil tape liner done inside the speedo housing, I will use new stock bulbs rather than LED strip lighting, I think there will be enough lighting with these changes.
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I'm going to replace the colored gels as well, very disappointed in the replacement set I bought - they are not plastic at all, just some papery-looking stuff. I looked around and had some colored cel sheets, should have gone that route in the first place.

Painted up the speedo trim and will replace the stress-cracked plastic lens. I bought a gently-used speedo to have on hand for any additional spare parts such as bulb-holders, etc.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought about changing the speedo dial to an overlay but decided that I liked the OEM look. I did repaint the needle though Smile The new colored gels looked good and bright with a test light behind them.
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Just some glamor shots Blue Bug I really want to get those new rims on but no sense in letting new tires just sit there until the car is done.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finished the speedometer, I had bought a second one for "just in case" parts, wound up using the lens and some of the bulb holders. Painted the needle and outer trim, general cleanup, new gels, foil interior, I'm please with it.
Minor item, but the build enjoyment is also in the small stuff.
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Chochobeef
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great. Another thing on the list as well. Are you keeping stock lighting in the speedo? If so, let us know if it improves with that foil tape.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lol it's knocking down one thing on the list at a time 😀 yes I will keep stock lighting in the speedo but with new bulbs and clean connectors. I've seen som pics posted before that showed the lighting to be improved with stock bulbs and the interior foil.
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Work's kept me busy, but got the chance to work on the car again.

I started out to install the dash, needed to get speedometer installed plus switches so I could get the wiring done. This was a dash bought from Antonio - VW Mexico. Nice quality, but no holes. I know some like the painted metal dash, I preferred to have the padded dash.

Started out with fitting up the dash, including installing all attachment screws so I could accurately mark where the holes needed to be. I did that by marking the back of the dash. The dash itself fit perfectly to the metal dash. The reason I fully installed the dash was so that it got marked exactly where it was going to be final-installed.
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I then removed the dash and drilled a pilot hole at each knob location, followed by marking 7/8" diameter holes. The knobs are 3/4" diameter, leaves a 1/16" gap all around.
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Next I used a hole saw. I've done this before in padded dashes, the trick is to go slow and not quite cut all the way through the surface vinyl. Then I used an exacto to make the final cut following the outline of the circle. This left a clean hole cut.
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This was the result after all the holes were cut - the top surface has a very clean cut edge, but before I went and cleaned up the padding edge cuts below.
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And installed. I also cut out the center insert for the brake light, turned out good. I made a 1" hole at the lower left cigarette lighter location and installed a cap at that hole for now. The cig lighter is in place, but I'll just use it as a USB port or something.
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I noticed that you installed a new front rubber engine to body seal. I just did so in my 1974 Super Beetle, and had a problem.

After installing the engine, I was under the car and went to install the throttle-cable (with it's sheath) to the end of the metal throttle tube that fits through the fan housing.

The tube's end was nowhere to be seen from under the car. I went around to the back of the car, looked and saw that my tube (held tight by a hose clip) was right where it was supposed to be. Then I realized what happened.

When pressing the engine home, the front seal moves flat--and down--against the upright engine tin--and this event allows the new seal to cover the end of the tube that goes through the fan shroud. So I had to get back under the car and cut a hole in the new engine seal so the throttle tube could peek through the rubber seal.

So be aware. It's a bitch to cut that little hole, after the engine has been installed. You might want to do it while the engine is still out, as you can then cut the hole very easily from the engine side.

Tim
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Tim Donahoe
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 14, 2014 11:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I noticed that you installed a new front rubber engine to body seal. I just did so in my 1974 Super Beetle, and had a problem.

After installing the engine, I was under the car and went to install the throttle-cable (with it's sheath) to the end of the metal throttle tube that fits through the fan housing.

The tube's end was nowhere to be seen from under the car. I went around to the back of the car, looked and saw that my tube (held tight by a hose clip) was right where it was supposed to be. Then I realized what happened.

When pressing the engine home, the front seal moves flat--and down--against the upright engine tin--and this event allows the new seal to cover the end of the tube that goes through the fan shroud. So I had to get back under the car and cut a hole in the new engine seal so the throttle tube could peek through the rubber seal.

So be aware. It's a bitch to cut that little hole, after the engine has been installed. You might want to do it while the engine is still out, as you can then cut the hole very easily from the engine side.

Tim
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you! One of the minor things now that are major gotchas later! Really appreciate your help.
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2014 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good!
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

More wiring. I got the 2 additional relays installed for low and hi beams. The intent is that now the headlight switch voltage is used only to energize the relays - 12v supply is routed from the additional feed I added to a separate ATO fuseblock.

Still a rat nest of wires till I get them bundled up, but the 2 additional relays are incorporated into the relay rail of the OEM fuseblock. They are the ones with the diagram printed on top. The open space on the right is for the door buzzer relay but I think I may modify that one to add a second relay for low beams. That way each low beam has a separate circuit.
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This is the added ATO fuseblock. So far it has the low and high beam feeds connected. It also has a ground pad at the lower right. The 12v lug is partially hidden under the blue wire at #1 ATO terminal.
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The additional battery feed is the thicker red wire. This will get a lug connection to the new ATO fuseblock.
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What gauge wire is that? Looks pretty heavy duty!

Might want to do that WHEN I get around to replacing my wire harness.

I like the idea of a separate hot wire to run say... My A/C system, 90/100 H4 bulbs.. etc..
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Red 1971 Squareback Thread
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1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle
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TX-73
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also decided I wanted the grilles on either side of the speedo to be body color. I really didn't want to mix up a quart of color so I found a vender on ebay that provides color matched base/clear paint in aerosol as well as quarts/touch-up/etc.
I bought the aerosol for convenience and it was a great match for the body color code. Several light coats of base and 2 wet coats of clear and I was done, turned out nice. I've still got plenty of paint left as well.
Vendor is Scratchwiz on ebay.
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I did not open up the dash pad behind the grilles, I just want them to be contrasted against the black when installed.
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Mr.Duncan
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2014 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TX-73 wrote:
I also decided I wanted the grilles on either side of the speedo to be body color.


glove box door too?
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Red 1971 Squareback Thread
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1966 Ghia (sold)
1971 Blue Super Beetle (sold)
1966 Java Green Std Beetle (sold)
1971 Red Squareback (sold)
1966 Red Beetle
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