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Help with '77 resurrection. First post/thread.
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SGKent Premium Member
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Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2014 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No Simple Highway wrote:
SGKent wrote:
No Simple Highway wrote:



even if you find a new one you will need to tune it to your bus. They do not come factory tuned. The last one I bought was like 17:1 on the air to fuel ratio. Part of that may be a bus factory cam is no longer available new.


SGK, I am hoping to find a new or good used AFM and then take the bus to a shop who can sniff test and make the adjustment. I would prefer not to open mine up and start doing neurosurgery on it since it mostly works for now and the likelihood of me jacking it up is, well, it's risky IMO. I have never monkeyed with AFM innards before. Now, MAYBE if I get a good one, then I might be more inclined to give it a go on the current afm.

If I recall from searching threads, you are not a proponant of messing with 'cover off' procedures, so I assume that you meant to get it sniffed and set professionally. Does this sound right?

It may sound like I am getting ahead of myself as I still have hard start issues and such to track down and fix. I do plan to continue making sure everything elso is in order before getting the afm fine tuned, but since parts take a while to track down I am on the hunt so that I'll have one when the time comes.

Thanks.
ONWARD!
NSH


actually after three failed attempts to have a major well-known company rebuild and test 3 AFM's for my 1977 I set out to dissect one and come up with a method to tune it that could be replicated by myself or others.

The issue of tuning an AFM includes use of a air to fuel meter and that can cost upwards of $200 - $300 so most people won't go to that trouble.

The best thing you can do is

1. replace the points and condenser
2. oil the distributor wick and weight pivots
3. replace the plug wires, boots and plugs
4. Replace the cap and rotor
5. Adjust the valves cold and start a log book of it so you can compare next time.
6. Replace fuel lines. I use Gates barricade.
7. Change oil and filter, do not tighten strainer bolt more than 9 ft lbs
8. Make a cheap smoke generator and look for vacuum leaks. You will probably have to replace the injector seals
9. Make sure the fuel is good and the fuel filter clean
10. 3 minute test on brake booster
11. Verify vacuum lines are in the right places and replace them if needed
12. Next time the engine is out replace the vapor lines on the tank.
13. Check all the wiring ends to be sure they are still good. Clean grounds.
14. Next time the engine and trans are out replace the donut in the trans nose and add a steel plate.

Frankly many of the above items are easier when the engine is out. Consider paying someone like Colin - Amskeptic next time he is thru your area. He will over winter probably in FL this year so it won't be until next year that he is back in the midwest.
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No Simple Highway
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Still on the hunt for a good afm, but getting by with plenty of other things to do. I have crossed off all but four on SGK's to-do list in the previous post, adding new injectors, csv, AAR, throttle to plenum gasket, etc.

Recently I turned my attention to lights, signals and such, plus started looking into correct tires. I found a year-of-manufacture license plate and registered the bus at the DMV...obviously no smog or inspection or neighborhood association of any kind here. There is plenty to do to make the bus legal and safe, but every day or three there is progress.

ONWARD!
NSH
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No Simple Highway
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 8:01 pm    Post subject: Tail light socket 72-79 Reply with quote

I foung my tail light housings to be old, dry-rotted, and crumbling into dust. I ordered the best replacements I could find (actual VW-made parts), though they are not the good old 'made in germany' units. I am using the plastic housing but cleaning and re-using the old sockets instead of the new ones, which aren't quite 'right.'

I am missing one socket entirely. Does anyone have a turn signal socket like the OLD one pictured on the left in the photos? It needs to clip/fasten like the old one pictured. I would gladly buy a couple or a complete set for spares, but the immediate need is for one measly socket for the rear of a '77.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Leads appreciated, and thanks!!

ONWARD!
NSH
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eche_bus
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I fully support your quest to keep things original; just want to point out that the odd socket with the single wide, rather than pair of narrow tabs can be easily modified with a Dremel tool. All it takes is cutting an appropriately sized slot down the middle of the wide tab.

Otherwise, best of luck with your socket hunt!
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No Simple Highway
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

eche_bus wrote:
I fully support your quest to keep things original; just want to point out that the odd socket with the single wide, rather than pair of narrow tabs can be easily modified with a Dremel tool. All it takes is cutting an appropriately sized slot down the middle of the wide tab.



Dang Eche! Were you in my driveway watching me fiddle with these? Or did you overhear me at the FLAPS or Radio Shack, lol! I'm impressed that you knew the real issue behind the post. Still, the quality of the old ones is worth keeping if I can find one. Thanks for the idea.

ONWARD!
NSH
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eche_bus
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No Simple Highway wrote:
eche_bus wrote:
I fully support your quest to keep things original; just want to point out that the odd socket with the single wide, rather than pair of narrow tabs can be easily modified with a Dremel tool. All it takes is cutting an appropriately sized slot down the middle of the wide tab.



Dang Eche! Were you in my driveway watching me fiddle with these? Or did you overhear me at the FLAPS or Radio Shack, lol! I'm impressed that you knew the real issue behind the post. Still, the quality of the old ones is worth keeping if I can find one. Thanks for the idea.

ONWARD!
NSH


Ah ... I know because this is what I ran into when replacing mine. Not only did I run into that issue, but also recall the tabs point in a different direction from original, causing wire lengths to come up pretty short. I think I had to extend one or two to get past the problem but it was just on one side. I believe the wires come in from top on one side, bottom on the other.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Greg Lindquist
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No Simple Highway
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks TC! Pm'd Greg.
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No Simple Highway
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't see this part in Bentley or on the wiring diagram. It seems to be aftermarket (labelled cole hersee, Boston Mass). It sits just inside the left of the engine bay door on the 77 westy.

The heavy wire that looks like nylon rope feeds directly from the battery +. The longer black wire pictured 'Y's into the wire with the inline fuse left of engine and these share the same terminal on the 15 side of the coil.

Could this be a relic from a former dual battery setup? Thanks for any help.

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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That would be it.
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eche_bus
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 4:42 pm    Post subject: Westy auxiliary battery relay Reply with quote

Your Deluxe Westy would have originally come with an auxiliary battery and the relay would have looked like this one:
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As it's unique to the Westfalia, the wiring diagram is found in the '78 Westfalia Service Manual located in the Technical section here.
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No Simple Highway
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Four new tires arrived today!! I tried to buy five, but no-go. I guess I'll keep one of the old 'Made in Germany Continentals' on the nose for an emergency spare.

ONWARD!!!
NSH

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No Simple Highway
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 2:44 pm    Post subject: Jack stands and jacking a bus Reply with quote

Forgive me as the search function is down at the moment.

What would be the best and safest way to get my westy onto jack stands X4? I am pulling all four (5) rims for paint then tires. The bus is on a safe level pad and I have 4 sturdy jack stands and a 3000# floor jack. Is that enough to get the job done?

I really need to know:
1. Jack placement. (And how to best pad jack and stands.)
2. Jack stand placement.
3. Any know-how that may save my arse and or bus.

Man...a parts bus would sure be nice to have around, but that's another topic. Thanks for any help!

ONWARD!
NSH
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 3:27 pm    Post subject: Jacking up bus. Reply with quote

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No Simple Highway
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 4:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks TC! I wasn't sure about the front and rear beams. They obviously handle the weight of the vehicle but I wasn't sure if all of that weight should be so concentrated as when jacking. Appreciate the info!
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No Simple Highway
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks TC! I wasn't sure about the front and rear beams. They obviously handle the weight of the vehicle but I wasn't sure if all of that weight should be so concentrated as when jacking. Appreciate the info!

ONWARD!
NSH
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No Simple Highway
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2014 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks TC! I wasn't sure about the front and rear beams. They obviously handle the weight of the vehicle but I wasn't sure if all of that weight should be so concentrated as when jacking. Appreciate the info!

ONWARD!
NSH
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